seanl82

Goldie posted a pic on his members gallery recently which is what I think you're referring to. Other option is to stack them on an appliance dolly (similar to below with cardboard in between each wheel to protect them.

Cheers bud. 👍

This is from a VR6 but should be the same/similar on a G60 I'd imagine

No, where the cable connects to the throttle body and opens/closes the butterfly, there is a damper at the back that stops it snapping shut when the spring closes it. Looks like an umbrella type thing. It's just a little soft close valve like you get on a kitchen drawer if you get my meaning. This often breaks down and doesn't softly close the throttle, so you get symptoms you're describing

Have you checked the throttle body damper? Not sure if the G60 suffers with the same issue but it's common on the VR for the damper to have broken down so not act as a buffer when coming off the gas. That causes idle to drop right down and potentially cut out too.

I've got that set, though they've been in my 'to do' box for more than 2 years now! Lol. Have your gearbox oil been changed recently? I'd start there then work back mate

Nice. Where does the banjo go - there isn't one on the master or slave cylinder is there? There is a goodridge Flexi and hard pipe available through heritage for £71, but wondering if I can remake the hard line in kunifer - just the coiled part may be difficult - with the stainless fittings I've just bought (ordered a couple spare), and just get a custom HEL line made for £26. 🤔

I know mate, woke at 3am and couldn't get back to sleep thinking about the car! 😵 Just thinking GB stuff would be easier whilst the subframe is removed now that's all. I get that it would be better to get it up and running first though. May save further issues down the line if it's kept lubed up as it should be.

Subframe has been sat on the garage worktop for a couple of months now (and got pretty dusty!), But not far to go until its back on. I'll get some pics soon as I've not taken any yet, but I've been snatching an hour here and there over the lockdown period and between doing all the small jobs around the house and the big job that is still the garden to finish off, to get underneath the car. As I said previously I'd been peeling any split or loose underseal back to the factory primer, going over it with a wire wheel and emery cloth to clean metal, rust converter, etch prime then resealing. I got a bit carried away around the rear end with all the clip studs, and I've also done along a lot of the sills and on the jacking points too. Happy to say there was no real rot, with the vast majority just surface rust and two or three very small areas where it was probably just starting to go a little crumbly so I've caught it just in time. With so many small areas and without having the factory underseal available, even with a rattle can (or two) of paint in an attempt to recreate the factory overspray look, it looked very patchy and I wasn't happy with it. This has led me to have to go over almost the entire underside with paint, so it's pretty much all body colour now but I'll be much happier with the finished outcome. Just have to finish off the final coat of paint today and I think I'll be ready for reassembly! I've got some kunifer brake pipe and stainless fittings on the way to do every single line (apart from the clutch slave hard to flexi pipe), so I think the only thing left to get is the master cylinder refurbished and new tyres. Thinking now, can I get that slave pipe done too... I do need to take the slam panel off though, as I have another inlet that has been vapour blasted that I want to fit but one of the bolts has rounded off on and I can't get to it easily. A few other little bits I want to do but not essential, though I've come this far and it's been off the road so long anyway....... shall I take the gearbox off to change the clutch & release bearing again (didn't change clutch last time), inspect release fork etc. Worries about the engine creaping into my mind now - It's not been run in 3 years so will things like stem seals have gone hard and brittle causing oil to leak past too!.......😬 Ahhhh too many things going through my head, when will it ever stop!? Lol

As above, I sentine off to the for refurb, but they stock everything to do it yourself. I thought about it, but buying all the parts separately wouldn't have been that much cheaper all in.

But the question is - did you manage to get the little blighter back in!? I failed, so just cable tied it in the end! A magnetic screwdriver thin enough would have helped I suppose

I had a bit of a mare with them too, and that was with the whole subframe off! As mentioned, a couple of clamps on the corners of the bracket managed it eventually. Just be careful the bolt goes in straight and you don't cross thread it.

Yeah I've got all that and a decent history dating back for the life of the car. I've googled the reg in the past but don't get anything from an enthusiast/forum perspective, which is what I meant by having an online history

Looking through his profile and previous posts, he joined in 2005 and had a 2.0 8v, and lives/d in Cardiff so unfortunately not. Be nice to see some online history of my car though

It had lived in North Wales before the PO to me had it (see the first post in my member gallery!) though Walesy was around on the forum for a few years after I started on here and nothing was ever mentioned - it could have been through utter embarrassment at the state of the bodges though! Nobody has recognised it as a forum car prior though, so probably just coincidence.

I had an eyebrow trim on mine when I bought it. Whoever had fitted it just screwed it on with self tappers to the headlight surrounds. 😣 One of the first things to go in the bin!

Thanks Fenders, yeah cost for fittings will be about £70 for stainless compared to about £25 for brass. Not a big difference when you put it like that, just me trying to keep costs down as I also want a better flaring and a new bending tool which is obviously pushing costs up. I've got a new set of braided hoses with stainless fittings too, so dissimilar metals (brass/stainless) doesn't always go well. I've been looking at automec as they're a UK company and the do full sets, though Corrado isn't listed (MK2 & 3 Golfs are though), I might give them a call. I have brake spanners and all the originals came off without issue (after a soak with plus gas) - apart from the ones connected to copper pipe where I replaced the fronts a few years ago. The pipe was too soft and just turned with the fitting. Ok I went for stainless & kunifer pipe. The only exception being the M12 union as I was buggered if I could find one online! I ended up getting them from here; https://www.carbuilder.com/uk 17x M10 stainless unions, 1x M12 union and 50ft of Kunifer pipe. I still have a bit left from the first roll I used to practice with so should have plenty. 🙂

Congrats on getting it back! I'm sure it'll be difficult trying to resist temptation in putting your foot down, but a good excuse to drive her as much as possible. 👍

Thanks Fenders, yeah cost for fittings will be about £70 for stainless compared to about £25 for brass. Not a big difference when you put it like that, just me trying to keep costs down as I also want a better flaring and a new bending tool which is obviously pushing costs up. I've got a new set of braided hoses with stainless fittings too, so dissimilar metals (brass/stainless) doesn't always go well. I've been looking at automec as they're a UK company and the do full sets, though Corrado isn't listed (MK2 & 3 Golfs are though), I might give them a call. I have brake spanners and all the originals came off without issue (after a soak with plus gas) - apart from the ones connected to copper pipe where I replaced the fronts a few years ago. The pipe was too soft and just turned with the fitting.

Thanks for the response Cressa, that's what I was thinking actually. All food for thought but just wanted to get others opinions really

Can anyone recommend some decent brake pipe fittings and where to source them? Not sure if they're available from the dealer (are any even open at the moment?). I don't really want electroplated ones as they're just not very effective at resisting corrosion very long, so the others I've seen are brass or stainless. Stainless would be good but at nearly a fiver each it works out pretty expensive, though I will fork out if needed. Brass I imagine will look pants after a very short while and tarnish/get covered in verdigris but I'm after any advice especially from those with experience. I've decided to go with kunifer lines as although it would be great to have factory green steel and it should last being garaged and not driven in the wet, it's about preservation for me now so good hard lines that won't corrode is the route I want to take. TIA

Yeah sorry for not making it clear, the side of the CV that mounts to the gearbox cup should have a rubber seal. The side that mounts to the boot/shaft should have a cork seal

The JR ones are very good value and have good reviews. I've used them in the past and the only issue I had was with weeping of CV grease as I had to use a cable tie cos I cocked up the ear band! The only other thing is that the inner CVs don't come with the seal. I think it's a fibre outer one and a rubber inner (both inner CV).

The Supersprint is extremely good quality, the welds are great and there is no excess build up of the weld internally so very smooth and free flowing. The sound is great, and fit is near perfect. The tip sweeps off to the side like the OE mild steel exhaust, so there's no faffing around when fitting it to get it central to the exit. They're as close to OE as you can get but better being stainless.

Sachs or Luk are both good reliable clutches. Stage 1 may be a bit 'jerky' at takeoff but it depends on your intentions with the car. Those suggested will last you a long time with normal driving so no real reason to break from the norm. Don't forget the release bearing, maybe reinforcement of the release arm and I'd suggest a replacement spring too.