seanl82

Well done mate, looks a huge amount of work! I'm sure you had reason, but it surely would have been easier to level of and start a build from scratch!?

I'll post some pics Chris. I only got it as it was the only option from the place I got the paint and cavity wax, and only worked out a couple of quid really as it pushed my order over the free postage threshold!

There are a couple on the previous page mate. I've been over it again since, but you get the picture. There are before pics a few pages back too, it was minging under there originally! Probably spent 24+ hours in total cleaning it (not all in one go or I'd have been overcome by the fumes!) Hard work, upper body aching like mad every time, thinners and gunk in my eyes countless times (yes I should have learned and worn goggles), and hands in bits from catching on studs and rashes from the thinners all over my forearms. Not a job for the faint hearted, unless you have the car on a spit which would have made it soooo much easier from the get go!

Stripped any underseal back to clean metal/primer and wire wheeled bits that needed it around the studs and hangers etc. Thankfully there were no nasty surprises and its all solid with no rot, just a bit of surface rust within a few mm of where it was covered. I've treated those areas with rust converter and primed it all ready for new underseal. After investigating over the past week or so, the old VW D003 500 is obsolete and NLA anywhere. The Dinitrol 447 is apparently close to factory finish, but it would need painting anyway so I've ordered some Gravitex in white and a couple of aerosols of classic green as well as some cavity wax. Have to make the best of a bad situation and short of completely stripping all the underseal off and re-applying, the best option seems to be to attempt to feather it in, and go over as best as possible with the paint so it doesn't stand out quite as much. There is some overspray under there anyway from when it was factory painted, so fingers crossed it doesn't look too out of place. I could re-coat the whole underside with the underseal, but I don't have a compressor and for such a large area, I'm reluctant to paint it all on by hand and do a poor job which just looks like its hiding a multitude of sins. I've also spent a huge amount of time cleaning it so I don't want to just cover over it either! lol

Full on rebuild there Chris, coming on leaps and bounds!

Me too! Tell him I said hello, it's been a while! Looking good Martin, you're picking up some momentum now. 👍

There are early and late types. The late types are 5 pin if I remember correctly, and the also have a red 9 pin (I think) plug which goes below

Not too difficult Chris, just be careful of the guides on the pillar trims that the clips slot into and the front screen trim as if the windscreen has been replaced previously, there can sometimes be mastic holding it on inside. Remove the headlining out of the rear hatch.

Your intermittent wiper is programmable. You set the time interval by having it on intermittent when turning the key, and the time you take to put it back to off sets it. 😉

Did all those when I did the rest of the engine bay bits in 2014. Still look like new now.

I've still got the rubbers, but lost one of the pads since the respray unfortunately

No mate, it's on already, just needs rivetting into place. The car will rarely be in the wet so content it'll last.

They're on later cars I believe. Early ones had the brake ducting

Thanks Doc, I was being a numpty. Skirting and furnishings are all done now too, but don't have photos yet Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Wow, great work there Chris. Tapatalk won't let me upload pics unless I subscribe to VIP....

Can't upload any of the other finished ones as the files are too large!

Need a bigger garage Chris! Looks like it has lots of potential as you say though mate, and a great plot in what looks like a cracking location! 👍 We've been doing similar over the past 2 years too.

Hello mate, no problem at all. Its the first time I've used this place as I'm in a different location now and don't yet know the standard of their work until it comes back, but for; Subframe, rear axle & brackets, tank straps, drive shafts, hub knuckles and ARB (think that's all of it), they quoted me £120. That sounded really cheap to me which is why I'm reserving judgement on quality. I'd previously had the front cross member, rad support, rad shroud and a load of engine bay brackets done on the south coast in nylon powder coat (a bit more hard wearing apparently) for the same price about 6 years ago. This place don't do nylon though. I'll report back and put some pics up when I get it all back in a couple of weeks bu fingers crossed!

I can imagine! Swearing always helps relieve the stress of owning a Corrado when things don't go to plan - which is pretty often! 😆

Nice touch! I did the same with mine when I replaced the leather. Luckily managed to get one from eBay and used contact adhesive to glue it down. 👍

Baby steps Martin! It'll come together mate, keep truckin! 👍

Now the pics are working, I thought I'd add some after such a long time without! 👍

Not a lot you can do when upgrading internals aside from cams, oversized bores and compression tweeks, but that won't offer much more than 220 bhp in all honesty. Superchargers offer the best bang for buck gains. As mentioned, turbo would bring a whole host of additional modifications where space is already tight, though they could offer significantly more power but internals need to be upgraded also. Shrick/VSR and cams just don't offer value for money in my opinion. You can buy good supercharger kits for the same price utilising stock internals, and get 3-4 times the gains. The engine bay appearance will obviously change, and you'll lose the VR noise - though gain the supercharger whine which is kind of marmite.

Makes sense actually..... :bonk: The only other reasons for the clutch issue then is slave cylinder again, or release arm which are known to fatigue and crack/flex.