
seanl82
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Everything posted by seanl82
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Wow, man likes his wheels! Not a huge fan of the S3 alloys if I'm honest, but the RS! 👌
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Wow, the serial hoarder letting something go, that must have been difficult for you Martin! 🤭😆
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Nothing much specific for the 8v. Just check the usual for cam belt, oil leaks - especially the breather (little black box on top of engine) pipework as the do soften and split over time, which can lead to a bit of a mess in the engine bay and oil smell in the cabin. My first engine actually died after oil cooler failure (bought a replacement including all ancillaries for £80 delivered!) so check oil and coolant for cross contamination. That's about it really.
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Looks a decent enough and unmodified example from the pics and fairly priced. Mileage is probably about average I'd say, and the 8v engines are very common (more or less the same as the MK3 Golf GTI) so should be a decent amount of spare parts and cheap to replace anything that needs doing. I had a Golf with the 8v lump, and sure it would never set the world alight but they're really good all rounders in my opinion. It depends how you want to use the car and what your expectations are with regard to performance. If it's close to you I'd say it's at least worth a look. As with anything this age, check for rust at the sills, fuel filler neck and around the windscreen. Check all electrics work, especially sunroof and heater dials. A lot of parts are obsolete including parts for those, so it'll be very difficult to fix. Other than that, buy on condition as mentioned, the engine and running gear are relatively cheap to sort compared to bodywork. Best of luck. 👍
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Keep the handle pulled back by using the seatbelt looped around it, then press down on the side that's stuck. 😉
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Frustration opitimised. Finished painting the underside this morning, on the upward curve now with beginning to put everything back together. Still awaiting my brake lines, so decided to start at the front and get the subframe back on this afternoon. Got it up, did the bolts up hand tight but couldn't get one of the bloody PAS pipes unions on so had to drop the subframe again and put them both in. Raised it again and torqued up the bolts, put in the engine mount bolts and removed the engine support. Feeling like I'd accomplished something and that'll do for today. Tidying away the tools and what do I see on the work bench, PAS pipe crush washers! 🤬😫
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The vid puts it into perspective quite well. Weighing up options (very rough estimate on cost), to fix including paint -£2000. Break the Corrado for parts +£1000 Buying another Corrado for £3000, possible for a 16v but even then for that price, it'll likely not be far behind yours currently. Buying something else for £3000 - probably nothing worthwhile. Fixing yours and knowing it is in great shape structurally, knowing it'll last for many years to come and maintaining or even improving that emotional attachment (cos fixing it up will make you happy once it's done 😉) - priceless! 👍
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It's not something anyone wants to say, but the fact it's so bad in the visible areas means its likely to be not far behind in others (underneath the underseal). I think your next step is to attempt to strip back the underseal all the way along the sills, any areas that are split even if just slightly - paying particular attention to jacking points, mounting studs and the areas with visible rust. Grind or peel it all back until you get to clean primed factory metal, as it'll need welding to that point anyway and will make for a much more accurate quote for welding. If you strip the interior, carpets & sound deadening etc, it'll also keep costs down too. The painting is likely to be where you'll be hit hardest financially. It's a hard one as 8v are toward the bottom end for values, so the amount of work required probably doesn't make it financially viable. That said, the emotional attachment you obviously have with it is what will determine the outcome and is something only you can decide. Stripping everything back and out to find the full extent of it, then getting a few quotes should give you a better idea. Have any mates or work colleagues with a Mig? Even local Corrado owners who may be willing to help will keep costs down too. Best of luck with it whatever you decide mate. 👍
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The KR cams are pretty good from factory. If you can find a 9A engine, with the KR or ABF cams and a remap you'll achieve 160 bhp fairly comfortably. It's a fairly well trodden path for 9A upgrades, so just do that but in reverse.
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I thought that was a Vauxhall Cavalier on the first two pics! 😂
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I'd agree the front and gearbox (left) competition mounts would make a noticeable difference, but there isn't a lot of weight placed on the rear right mount so I don't think it would be. I have a fast road front and rear right mount and they're not harsh at all. It's not like suspension so it doesn't affect drivability. I did have a rear left fast road too, but noticed the noise of the gearbox in the cabin which always had me on edge that there was something wrong. I changed back to standard on that one.
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Or like that ^
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Goldie posted a pic on his members gallery recently which is what I think you're referring to. Other option is to stack them on an appliance dolly (similar to below with cardboard in between each wheel to protect them.
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Cheers bud. 👍
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This is from a VR6 but should be the same/similar on a G60 I'd imagine
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No, where the cable connects to the throttle body and opens/closes the butterfly, there is a damper at the back that stops it snapping shut when the spring closes it. Looks like an umbrella type thing. It's just a little soft close valve like you get on a kitchen drawer if you get my meaning. This often breaks down and doesn't softly close the throttle, so you get symptoms you're describing
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Have you checked the throttle body damper? Not sure if the G60 suffers with the same issue but it's common on the VR for the damper to have broken down so not act as a buffer when coming off the gas. That causes idle to drop right down and potentially cut out too.
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I've got that set, though they've been in my 'to do' box for more than 2 years now! Lol. Have your gearbox oil been changed recently? I'd start there then work back mate
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Nice. Where does the banjo go - there isn't one on the master or slave cylinder is there? There is a goodridge Flexi and hard pipe available through heritage for £71, but wondering if I can remake the hard line in kunifer - just the coiled part may be difficult - with the stainless fittings I've just bought (ordered a couple spare), and just get a custom HEL line made for £26. 🤔
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I know mate, woke at 3am and couldn't get back to sleep thinking about the car! 😵 Just thinking GB stuff would be easier whilst the subframe is removed now that's all. I get that it would be better to get it up and running first though. May save further issues down the line if it's kept lubed up as it should be.
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Subframe has been sat on the garage worktop for a couple of months now (and got pretty dusty!), But not far to go until its back on. I'll get some pics soon as I've not taken any yet, but I've been snatching an hour here and there over the lockdown period and between doing all the small jobs around the house and the big job that is still the garden to finish off, to get underneath the car. As I said previously I'd been peeling any split or loose underseal back to the factory primer, going over it with a wire wheel and emery cloth to clean metal, rust converter, etch prime then resealing. I got a bit carried away around the rear end with all the clip studs, and I've also done along a lot of the sills and on the jacking points too. Happy to say there was no real rot, with the vast majority just surface rust and two or three very small areas where it was probably just starting to go a little crumbly so I've caught it just in time. With so many small areas and without having the factory underseal available, even with a rattle can (or two) of paint in an attempt to recreate the factory overspray look, it looked very patchy and I wasn't happy with it. This has led me to have to go over almost the entire underside with paint, so it's pretty much all body colour now but I'll be much happier with the finished outcome. Just have to finish off the final coat of paint today and I think I'll be ready for reassembly! I've got some kunifer brake pipe and stainless fittings on the way to do every single line (apart from the clutch slave hard to flexi pipe), so I think the only thing left to get is the master cylinder refurbished and new tyres. Thinking now, can I get that slave pipe done too... I do need to take the slam panel off though, as I have another inlet that has been vapour blasted that I want to fit but one of the bolts has rounded off on and I can't get to it easily. A few other little bits I want to do but not essential, though I've come this far and it's been off the road so long anyway....... shall I take the gearbox off to change the clutch & release bearing again (didn't change clutch last time), inspect release fork etc. Worries about the engine creaping into my mind now - It's not been run in 3 years so will things like stem seals have gone hard and brittle causing oil to leak past too!.......😬 Ahhhh too many things going through my head, when will it ever stop!? Lol
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As above, I sentine off to the for refurb, but they stock everything to do it yourself. I thought about it, but buying all the parts separately wouldn't have been that much cheaper all in.
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But the question is - did you manage to get the little blighter back in!? I failed, so just cable tied it in the end! A magnetic screwdriver thin enough would have helped I suppose
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I had a bit of a mare with them too, and that was with the whole subframe off! As mentioned, a couple of clamps on the corners of the bracket managed it eventually. Just be careful the bolt goes in straight and you don't cross thread it.
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Yeah I've got all that and a decent history dating back for the life of the car. I've googled the reg in the past but don't get anything from an enthusiast/forum perspective, which is what I meant by having an online history