seanl82

Use the search, could be a number of things. First thing you need to do though is ascertain whether fuel and spark are reaching the block. That'll give you more of an idea where the problem could be.

Well I think you probably know the problems associated with Diesels and short runs then if you're a trained mechanic. If the engine doesn't warm up, DPFs and EGR valves dieing in a very short period is almost a given. I think 6 miles is pretty close to the threshold, but it depends whether you'd be sat in traffic or just on a quick run down the motorway and not giving the engine much time to warm up.

Golf or Jetta for me. What you'd save in fuel and tax will come back on you in in parts and possibly labour if you cannot do it yourself. The VW's are simple and easy to work on, so you're more than likely able to fix a problem on your driveway in a short space of time. It depends how many miles you travel day to day, but short journeys and diesels don't don't go well together.

Not used the Castrol stuff, but the redline MT90 come well recommended. I used it a few months back and I've not noticed a difference, although my GB was in good shape beforehand so cant report any improvement tbh.

Really! Mine look like foam 18 years later! Lol

There should be foam grommets where the tabs sit in at the bottom. The top clips should hold firm on their own, but if not a little bit of amalgamating tape round the clip when its sat in should hold it firm.

How about roof gutter strips or scraper seals??? You'd have a backlog of people kicking your door down for those items I'd imagine!!

DMFs. :censored::bad-words::mad2:

Has nothing to do with the stretch, but profile and size of tyres should be (generally) 2 psi with each step, above standard fitment iirc.

May just be the angle of the phot, but is that also a spoonfed extended spoiler? Looks very nice btw! :thumbleft:

Its not essential if you bleed the whole system after, but would certainly help.

Two holding the grab handle - N/S only, and there should be one near the top of the screen on each side. So one on drivers side, three on passenger side total mate.

Just remove the visible screws and grab handle, gently pull it out being careful not to snap the plastic retaining slots for the clips on the trim itself. If the windscreen has been changed at all it's possible some of the sealant has bonded to the trim, so a Stanley blade carefully swiped down in between should free it up.

Glad its being put to use and helping out good forum members in need! :thumbleft:

Either or mate. Early were 205, later they went 195. The 205s are getting harder to get hold of now, and as a result are more expensive. Stick at 195 and you'll be fine mate.

:-X.Bilt Hamber Surfex as an APC for interior, wheels, arches, engine bay cleaning etc. Very highly dilutable and an excellent product! Auto finesse Mint Rims, or Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 for a wheel sealant are my preferred products. Gliptone cleaner and conditioner for leather. Carpro Perl for interior and exterior plastics, including engine bay etc. Again highly dilutable so goes a long way and you can get any effect you want. (Gloss-matt) You can use the CG Jetseal mentioned above to good effect on your exhaust and paintwork too, although it wont give quite the level of gloss as others. Collinite 476s or Finishkare 1000p would be my recommendation for this time of year. Or if your budget stretches, CquartzUK for a semi-permanent protection. - well over a year +++

You can get take the filter out, its just a thin plastic insert. When I did my ABS light "fix" I only had red leds and they are very bright. I've just stuck some tint film over the top of the filter, then put it back in to tone it down a bit.

Oooh! Maybe a bit late now, but I'd buy one! :thumbleft:

Correct, it's an orange filter! :camp:

Find out the value (resistance) of the resistor, and buy one/strip and an orange LED from Maplins, get your soldering iron out, and save yourself £29. So long as the tracks on the PCB are OK, it'll be a doddle. Even if the tracks are a bit knackered, they can easily be repaired. :smug:

Happens all over the world. Fast and Loud episodes of the Ferrari F40 if you havn't seen it. Basically a one owner low mile stock F40 went into Ferrari for a service, and one of the young workers ploughed it through a shop window ragging the bejesus out of it. Nice turnaround from the Gas Monkeys though.

Mint = well, mint...........Brand news or freshly refirbed. Excellent = Very very minor kerbing or scratches on one or two wheels. Very good = Minor kerbing or scratches on more than one wheel. Good = Maybe a small amount of corrosion and some kerbing, but still perfectly useable and wouldn't look terrible when on. Fair = Need a refirb and look grotty, but will do for now. Poor = Seriously in need of refirb or junk. This is what I'd expect from a forum (like this one, but not all forums), but from ebay I'd bump them all down by at least one, and also add another one on the bottom for rejection by scrap metal dealer.

Quote your consumer right and the sale of goods act 1979. If it is just the result of a stone chip rather than a large damaged area, tell them you will be seeking legal advice with the aid of the Citizens Advice Bureau, as they have not stood up to what could be described as normal use -less than normal in you circumstance. They are just trying to fob you off, but be persistant. The company that sold you the wheel should replace it or offer you a refund, and then go through their own process with the spplier. It should not be put onto you if the supplier/manufacturer will not make good to them. Stick to your guns mate.

Description is woeful too.

Looks good to me mate. Pretty standard design for the more robust and class leading meters of a few years ago so cant go wrong with that!