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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Fair play for keeping it all this time. mk3 abf 16v is what they should have put in place of the 2.0 16v 9a unit. Sounds great, keep us updated.

NOS sump and genuine original fixings.

Started the re-assembly

I'm newbie soldering. I don't know how to do it better 😅

Great looking motor and price. Too much for me but I am sure someone will put it in their garage. I always enjoy an advert for a standard car and then read the tasteful modifications

I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan

good find m8 fastest owned - probably my modified VR but i think my modified & half stripped R53 supercharged mini would give it a run for its money. they both produce noise induced grins time after time! fastest ive been in - a few contenders; the nissan GTR i drove was crazy but then my old boss took me out in his modded porsche GT3, which covered ground so quickly it was incredible most interesting is a tough one - i still remember a ride in a 308 ferrari when i was about 10, had some great times in my uncles VW camper van but id go with my dads porsche 911 3.0 SC targa

As for the alarm, trace each wire and remove it. Join back any that have been interrupted by the Gemini system. Then see what you are working with

Aux. Pump is designed to run continuously whilst with the ignition on. 👍

I’d agree that you’d be better with two fans in operation as when the stage 2 fan engages as that’s the idea, one fan isn’t enough as the temp has gone so the rad sender engages the second stage, going from one fan to the other won’t improve your cooling one bit. It’s a nice little project sorting the fans and wiring out. Something else to bear in mind is the auxiliary water pump, you need to see how he’s wired the fans. If he’s bypassed the main fan controller unit chances are this won’t be running if the fans come on when you turn the engine off. You can tell if the auxiliary pump is working by just turning the ignition on without engaging the starter motor, you should hear the pump run for 30 seconds or so, no buzzing and it is duff.

Congratulations on the purchase - saw this car and went for a good price considering the work carried out and the recaro seats and alloys. Aftermarket Slimline fans - Shaun is the man for them on here- sounds to me likely to be set up wrong in the first place- if you search cooling guide on here its very informative - you can test by bridging all 3 speed settings. The fan control unit is a common failure point as well due to age . Basics first are to bridge the fan switch sensor (one in radiator) plug for settings 1 ignition off- setting 2 bridge same plug but different pins ignition on - settings 3 bridge the the black coolant sensor plug ignition on that is in a row next to the other 2 coolant sensors .

A few more pictures of the interior current condition....

Thread here. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/does-your-mk4-g60-flywheel-and-vr6-clutch-engage-too-closely-to-to-the-floor.141405/page-3 Everywhere I look says the c number is compatible . Whether you have to change another part for it to be compatible Im not sure.

Not the best quality but hopefully you can see how they clip on.

no m8 im not far from birmingham - i will ask the guy next time i see him for you

Moody - there are a few options available. I would say it's better to upgrade than try and find a working Corrado roof. My experiences to date - I bought a working corrado mechanism from a chap with the initals BR that was sold as working for £200. It broke on the second use. I wouldn't say it was the sellers fault but it's a 25+ year old bit of kit and certainly not worth £200. Don't do what I did - false economy. I then fitted a mk3 mecahansim with a Passat B4 moonroof. That combo works well - you can get the mech for about £45 (I use Leo GS the mk3 parts breaker on facebook - he is a great bloke and a moderator on a lot of groups). The passat moonroof can be picked up for around £50. I would sell mine if anyone wants it, it needs a new seal though. I wasn't a fan of the moonroof for my car. I prefered the stock tin panel. I got lucky and Chris F supplied me a bag of sunroof bits for a reasonable sum so I've got 3 corrado mechs built (2 x in car). I can't sell any of these though as I have 2 corrado's and need to keep it for spares. This is the best route to go - buy a broken mech and try and source a bag of bits (the bag of bits only cost me £50). I've seen somewhere someone has adapted the mk3 mech to work with the corrado inner panel. This is probably the best solution as the corrado mech is weak vs mk3. Mk3 mech out of the box will not auto slide the inner panel. I haven't looked into this with any detail yet.

Sounds like a decent plan there. The bolts that go through the brackets in to the bushes can foul on the sill lip, so removing with the brackets in place makes sense. Dropping the back where the brakes mount onto some lumber is good, though it doesn't go down all the way to the floor when the rear suspension is removed anyway. Put a jack under the cross section at the front, remove all the bolts then lower it down from there. It's not as heavy as you'd think, so should be easy enough to manoeuvre out.

If you get the code it can be checked here. http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx I'm pretty sure it'll be the YU clear. It's rare and I've only seen them a couple of times, but there was a 'mushroom beige' I think was only available for early cars. It's a bit darker and a kind of mix between grey & beige.

Filling with petrol is always good when troubleshooting a non-start scenario 😉

This is the Gamma IV, same as what Keyo has above. This has some nice features, 4x20w, CD changer control, greem dimmable lights, code protection and red anti-theft LED, telephone mute, speed dependent volume control (GALA) when connected to the the blue/white speed sensor signal and can be retrofitted with aux in, bluetooth or iPod adapter using the CD changer inputs - there's even a guy in Germany who retrofits a hardwired aux in cable with 3.5mm jack and Bluetooth 5.0 module for a pretty penny, which means you can retain the CD changer. The cassette flap makes it a lot less attractive to thieves than a fancier unit - and you can even play you Awesome Mix Vol. 1! There is an identical looking radio with blue/red illumination rather than the original green, so be careful to check this when buying.

Normally £100 - £150.

So I got ahold of BBM and they basically told me the same thing. I am also running that 4bar pressure regulator and all supporting mods for the stage upgrade. I just wanted to be sure that I didn't need to get a new cam for this chip or a new chip for the cam haha

Hi all, I've been away from the forum for a number of years now after selling my last Rado. At the time, my wife and I (now ex-wife sadly, we even met here on the forum) found we couldn't have children, so opted to adopt a dog (less expensive than kids, so more money for cars). Sadly he wasn't too keen on being in the back of a Rado, and we didn't think it'd be fair dragging him along to meets etc, and trips to the Pod. So, we sold the Rado and bought a Land Rover. I'm now with someone else, expecting our second child. The current mrs isn't into the Landy and green laning, so I've been considering getting back to the Rado scene, as she's more likely to be persuaded into joining me on that front. Having come back to the forum, I thought it would be good to find out how my last ride is doing. We sold it to a fellow enthusiast (I think he was already a member here) who had plans for it (thankfully not like the muppet/con man that bought my 1.8 16v.......also a member on here sadly), and I'd love to see how it looks now. So, if you're the current owner of the Rado in the subject title, please feel free to post some photos on this thread, I miss the car and would love to see it again, even if just a photo or two.

Hi there I have one but would need to check wiring can do so at weekend if you haven't been sorted by then

Anytime chris,I will pop and see you in the summer at some point...maybe in my Rallye if I can pull my finger out and finish it.

It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.

Did mine recently in light gloss grey. They won't go rusty, keep themselves clean, and look almost original (they don't scream at you that they've been painted- so probably not what you had in mind).

Welcome Chris, good to see you over here! :thumbleft: Cracking car in one of the best colours - you will love it! I'm certainly missing mine the more I see yours! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?89710-Chopped-in-my-2-0-16v-Corrado-today As mentioned on FB, you just have to fit a short-shift if Dave can knock you one up? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?61985-Corrado-Short-Shifter&highlight=short+shift You may have noticed the long throw on the gearstick (assuming one isn't fitted already?)It makes the change so much nicer and not too short like some kits. Looking forward to seeing you add your 'touch' to this one. Enjoy it ;)

Corrado looks nice, that sportline looked a beaut too. I used to have a red sportline a few years ago.

Lovely! Looks super clean!

Not sure buddy though I must be honest I've not really plugged my phone in and looked at the levels, I'll check it out.

Just wondering if anyone isstill making or selling the replacement window rollers? Part 535837437 Also looking to have them shipped to US. Let me know...thanks Jamie

Hi guys, I'm from Ireland but now living in Cape Town, South Africa. Corrados are VERY rare cars over here (I have seen 2 in 11 years and now own one of them!) so getting a one owner G60 was pretty sweet. Actually the PO broke down in front of me and I stopped to help, we got chatting and next thing you know I'd bought the car! It needs ALOT of love but I've got all the mechanical bits sorted, now it's just the interior and paint to sort out. Cheers Joe

If i had rs301s id have 2 locking wheel nuts on every wheel

Hi Have a look at my thread for the conversion - Hope it helps http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82498

That's the throttle damper, it plugs into the idle control valve (part #1) and stops the throttle snapping shut instantly when you take your foot off the gas. The little nubbin that connects to pipe #4 is solid - it doesn't connect in, it's just to support it mechanically. Pipe #4 is joined to the outer edge of the inlet elbow (the plastic or rubber bit in the top-left of the engine bay that connects the airbox to the throttle body), and once the idle control valve and damper have done their thing pipe #3 connects the air feed into the throttle body to allow it more or less air depending on how the idle's doing :) It's a pretty overengineered system and doesn't work very well, which is why the VR6 idle is so lumpy! They ditched it on the later OBD2 engines fitted to the Golf VR6es and did it all electronically :) Stone

Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.

Well once you've done it yourself, you'll know it's done correctly and will be 100% reliable.

Rep added easypops...just 'because' :D

so now all the prep is out of the way i turned to the engine wiring. firstly remove the engine plastics then the accelerator cable unplug and remove the isv unplug the connectors on the throttle body 6mm allen socket gets the four allen bolts off the throttle body, remove the body , 6mm allen bolt on the side of the manifold which holds the earth bracket and one again into the back of the head remove these. 6 x 6mm allen bolts that hold the front of the manifold on remove these disconnect the oil breather pipe on the right hand side disconnect the air temp sensor on the right hand side disconnect vacum pipe on the right hand side the manifold can now be removed. while i was at it i had an old metal rocker so i painted it to match the obd 2 one just so it look neater this job takes ?? 10-15 minuets engine bay looked like this with rocker removed get the obd2 engine wiring harness and familiarise yourselves with it, its going to be manky and oily i removed the multi pin conector from the metal housing as i wanted to paint it and it was manky i then removed the fuel injector plugs one at a time and replaced with the obd2 plugs one at a time. i used the vr6's fuel rail and injectors from the obd1 set up. again unplug the blue and yellow temp plugs from the housing and pull the loom out from under the coil pack around the back of the head and it should all come away quite nicely. plug in the obd2 plugs from the end of the fuel rail relocate the loom all the way around the head and place the multi pin connector back in the housing (i did this with the housing removed from car 3x 10mm bolts) at this stage you should replace the rocker cover and refit the manifold the loom then will be easy to put back into place connect up the obd2 throttle body and make sure all the plugs on the obd2 engine wiring loom are plugged in and everything is nice and secure. double check you have the accelerator cable guide on the inlet manifold. you can refit the cable now if you like its an easy task. now the best bit get the new and improoved obd2 chopped up loom but the loom hasnt been taped up yet?? i know its a ball ache but i think this is the best way as there are a few plugs still left on the loom which you dont know you might use and a dummy run just to make sure everything works is justifiable, pass the obd2 plugs through the bulk headand dont worry they only plug in in certain locations due to the way the plugs are deigned!! now the important bit all four plugs are in the fuse box. the white wire with purple tracer (this is the speed sensor wire) on the inner corrado loom needs to be connected to the golf loom (same colour wire) this bit of wire will need to be extended by about 6 inches. i cut the plug off of the corrado loom that we took out of the car, and added it to the golf loom, this then just plugs in nicely. look for a twin yellow plug it will have a grey wire with a white tracer and a yellow wire, the golf loom will have a grey wire with a white tracer, this needs to be connected to the grey wire with the white tracer on the corrado loom this connects the obd diagnositcs PLEASE NOTE IF YOU ARE CONVERTING A PREVIOUSLY AUTO CAR THE GREY WIRE WITH WHITE CHASER STARTS AT THE BLACK CONNECTION BLOCK BEHIND THE CENTRE CONSOLE WHICH IS CLIPPED TO THE METAL PLATE THAT THE CONSOLE IS SCREWED INTO. THIS WIRE WILL BE CASED IN A BLACK PLASTIC SHROWED. TRACE THE WIRE FROM HERE AROUND THE SHIFTER ACROSS THE CENTRE TUNNEL INFRONT OF THE DRIVERS SEAT , ALONG THE DRIVERS SILL AND IT WILL TERMINATE IN THE AUTO ECU MULTI PIN CONNECTOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WALL BEHIND THE BONNET PULL. TAKE OUT THE WIRE FORM THE MULTI PIN CONNECTOR AND CONNECT IT TO THE GREY /WHITE WIRE FROM THE OBD2 LOOM THAT STICKS THROUGH THE BULK HEAD. the big fat red wire with the blue tracer on it that comes through the bulk head on the obd2 loom needs to be plugged into the top right hand side of the fuse box the blue wire with the white tracer also has a blue plug on it this needs to be plugged into the small block of four connectors attached to the front (top) of the fuse box again this wire might need to be extended ok with everything connected in the fuse box double check and make sure you have plugged everything in on the engine side of things this is ready to fire up now , make sure nothing is dangling in the way of anything in the engine bay connect the battery back up . turn the key listen can you hear the fuel pump? do the relays click on turning the ignition on? can you hear the throttle body make a humming noise? good fire it up so its running all thats needed to do now is to tidy things up lets start with getting rid of this get rid of these the yellow one can go with this done you can start wrapping the loom i used self amalgamating tape 2 x rolls cost £10 i started with the plugs down by the starter motor and worked my way back to the fuse box yes the loom was still in the car as i wanted to get the loom back into the most original position i could... top tip start at the plugs by the starter motor and work up to firt join. then start from multi pin plug on engine loom and work back to first join then wrap the joint and continue up to the 2nd join work from th eecu plug back to 2 nd join and then wrap that join ....you get the idea . right so by now you might have already put back in the master and slave cylinder , this is ok if you have , the self amalgamating tape pulls the loom quite tightly together and now you have stripped out the crap it also makes the loom quite skiny so starting from the engine bay side wrap up as much of the loom as you possibly can even if you gently pull the loom through the bulk head until it wont go any further, then go in side the carand pull the loom back into the car wrap the loom in there and you will have then fully wrapped the obd2 loom place the gromet over the loom stick it in the hole and job done! replace all interior plastics and use existing cable ties to hold firm the loom in original position and your done enjoy your conversion! please feel free to add to this thread as my train of thought isnt exactly normal!! hope this has helped somebody out there..

they look nice ive been thinking about doing a simler thing with a 2lt 8v vauxhall engine i blew 2 holes in the crank case :norty: one less vauxhall on the road :)

OK, pretty dull this, but if anyone replaces their windscreen and the old screen catches and breaks the headlining trim strip, you won't be able to get another from the dealers. VW part code: 535 867 551 (colour 1DH) Internal headlining plastic trim strip, grey. Like I said, dull.

The car is a 1995 VR6 I've done some searching around on the forum and learnt a lot - but i just want to get some views before i invest in a new fuel pump. Here's a detailed description of the issue - some of these points may be red herrings: - Unfortunately allowed the fuel level to get very low then filled up with a full tank of BP unleaded [normally i only use optimax] - 11 miles later whilst driving on the motorway at about 70mph the car started to lose power, then was jerking around like a kangaroo! Pulled the car on to the hard shoulder - turned it off and on again and then it seemed better. - Drove another 100 miles that day, mainly motorway driving with slight hesitation esp when starting in first gear and also with low revs in second gear - car pulled and ran fine for most of the journey. - My friend who was in the car during all this said he'd had the same issue on his golf 16v and injector cleaner had helped. - Next day replaced the fuel filter and tried again - still serious hesitation to the point of almost stalling when pulling away. Once above 2500rpm power is good. - Then added injector cleaner which made about a 50% improvement with this issue - hesitation felt far less. But still present - also at high revs (4000/4500rpm) in 4/5th hesitation is felt. I think its the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank getting in to the fuel system. I had hoped the cheaper options of new fuel filter and injector cleaner would cure it - but its still there. Would adding injector cleaner again to the next tank full be advisable? Or is it bad to use it too often? Does it sound like the fuel pump is on its way out? Is there anyway to diagnose this before i pay for the fuel pump to be replaced? Could it be something else such as spark plugs? Any help appreciated :roll: I should add that the idle is very stable and smooth - it idles happily at about 600rpm and also the car fires first time without issue.