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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Dox, fendervg - Thanks very much for all your your help, am all done and lights are working as they should

Front Crossmember built up with powerflex bushes Got a set of H+R ARB,s 23mm front +25mm rear. I had these on a previous mk2 golf gti and loved them ! Fitted on the front The koni dampers and springs came with the car but needed to be built up with new bumpstops and top mounts

This post has been compiled from the misc posts on here (mostly by Mr. cheesewire) and the tons of good info is in this PDF (I presume from the Bentley manual?) - http://volkswagen.msk.ru/index.php?p=page18_cr but please note it's for the North American-spec AAA engines, not the rest-of-world ABV engines. Hopefully it's definitive, but if it's not let me know and I'll amend it :) So, first up: I believe that only early VRs have a 2-stage fan setup. Possibly all and certainly all late VRs have a 3-stage fan setup. Essentially, if you've got 3 temp senders in your thermostat housing, you have 3-stages. If you have AC or an auto, you'll always have a 3-stage fan setup regardless of age. Fan switching temperatures while the engine is running These are approximate as it depends on the age of the senders and how crusty they are. VAG-specified values and part numbers are listed further down. Stage 1 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, directly to the fans Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) Stage 2 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, combined with info from the yellow temp sender via the fan controller Switch On: 99-105 C (210-221 F) Switch Off: 91-98 C (196-208 F) Stage 3 Controlled by the black coolant temp sender, via the fan controller Not listed in the guide above, but it kicks in at around 110-115 C. For non-AC cars, stage 3 should never come on under normal conditions, if it does, you have a problem. Temp senders The coolant warning light is actually a level sensor (those 2 metal spikes in the header tank are what the plug is for and measure yes/no on coolant level). There is no over-temp warning other than the gauge going up/big cloud of steam coming out of the engine bay :lol: The main fan control temp sender is screwed into the radiator. This is a 3-pin brass jobber and has 2 different pin layouts depending on if you have early/late VR. It looks like early ones are all 3 pins in a row, late ones are 3 pins in a triangle shape. One pin (not sure what colour, probably brown) is earth. Pin 2 (thick red) is stage 1 output and is full-current to the fan. It has the following switching temps: Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) - officially rated at 95 C Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) - officially rated at 84 C Pin 3 (thin red/black) is stage 2 relay-switched output, which has the following switching temps: Switch On: 99-105 C (210-221 F) - officially rated at 102 C Switch Off: 91-98 C (196-208 F) - officially rated at 91 C There are also holes for another 3 temp senders in the thermostat housing. There will be 2 or 3 senders plugged into them as thusly (from left to right looking at the front of the engine): Yellow, 4-pin plug. VAG part number 701 919 369 D (about £20, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) Coolant gauge, fan control unit and aux water pump (always there) Switches on: 101-107 C (214-225 F) Switches off: 94-100 C (201-212 F) Blue, 2-pin plug. VAG part number 025 906 041 A (about £8, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) ECU (always there) Black or brown Black, 2-pin plug. VAG part number 357 919 369 F (about £6, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) For a late-spec 3 stage fan control (or auto gearbox for some reason) and switches on at approx. 112 C Brown, 4-pin plug. VAG part number 357 919 369 E (about £8, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) Only if you have AC. This is (apparently) a 3-stage sender (i.e. you get 5 stages in total! :lol: ) - VAG part number 357 919 369 E Don't quite understand the numbers in ETKA for this, but needless to stay, the first of the stages also switches on at 112C General temperature readings Normal ranges of temps vary hugely depending on how hot it is out, how hard you're driving and how long you've been sitting in traffic. Generally speaking, you don't want the oil to go much over 110. Up to 118 is probably ok, but not for the entire journey. The engine isn't really properly warmed up until the oil hits 80ish. Coolant temperatures tend to fluctuate much more depending on speed and/or sitting in traffic. Again, generally speaking you want the temp gauge to read in the middle of the gauge (98 degrees) when you're cruising. If you're pushing along hard or sitting in traffic, it will usually creep up to just over 104 or so. Much over 110 is not good as the pressure really starts to build up in the system and it's a likely indication that your fans may not be working. Above 45mph, normal summer cruise water temp is usually 80 - 84 deg C Above 40mph, normal Winter cruise temp is 75 - 82 deg C Overheating Although the coolant is primarily water it won't boil at 100 degrees, as it's a pressurised system, so it's not necessarily a bad thing. However, the pressure will obviously build up in the system over these temperatures and put extra strain on what may well be 15+yr old rubber. If you do get a gush of steam out of the engine bay - pull over as quickly as you can and stop! If you run the engine with no coolant and/or too hot, you're in danger of blowing the head gasket and/or warping the head. Neither of which are fun to replace and certainly a much bigger ball-ache than a bit of rubber pipe! Temperature reading check If you think you've got problems, it's always worth checking that the dash readout is actually correct. New senders are only a few quid from VAG and worth swapping if they're the old, crusty originals. Then at least you know you're not chasing phantom faults. The older and crustier they get, the more insulated they are from the actual water and thus, the less accurate they are. If you plug the car into VAG-COM, it will display the temp that the ECU is reading (i.e. from the blue sender) so you can compare that to the reading on the gauge that's coming from the yellow sender and see if you've got a mis-match. There is of course still the possibility that both senders are crusty and reading wrong... :lol: Fans check 1. Take the plug off the rad sender 2. Take the plug off the black temp sender in the stat housing. 3. Switch ignition on. In the rad sensor plug - red wire is stage 1, thin red/black is stage 2. The other wire is the common connection. Bridge each of the two wires in turn across the common wire and see if both speeds come on. If they do, good. 4. Bridge the black plug with a paper clip or something, does stage 3 come on? Sounds uber loud! So that's the fan test done. Tick it off as outruled. Fans/pump after-run The controller stays on for 10 minutes after you switch the car off (regardless of temperature) and will maintain power to the aux water pump. Stage 1 and 2 fans will come on if needed (same temps as when the car is running). After you turn the ignition off after a long hot run, you should hear the faint whirr (or loud whirr/grinding if it's shagged) of the aux water pump and fan stage 1 or 2 will be on. If you just turn the ignition on (even if the car is cold), you should hear the aux water pump whirring. The idea behind the after-run pump is too circulate the water round the heater matrix and rear of the block to prevent localised over heating. Thus, the aux water pump runs regardless, come rain, shine, snow, ice and even if the engine hasn't even run (ignition on, then off). Stage 1 has direct battery power and will run if it's triggered. Stage 2 has power maintained to it only during the 10 min after run cycle and will also run only if tiggered. Stage 3 is ignition only. Fans/pump after-run fault-checking You can use the following procedure to find out if your yellow temp sender is the cause of no after-run or not. This does not necessarily prove that the yellow temp sender is working, but it will prove if the circuitry that it controls is working or not. Turn ignition key on, then off again Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the yellow temperature sender switch Bridge contacts B, D (brown/red and brown wire) The radiator fan and auxiliary coolant pump must come on If NO, check the fan control unit and/or the aux water pump. Thermostats and radiators When the engine is cold, you want to keep as much heat in as possible to get it all warmed up. The standard VR thermostat opens at 80 degrees. When the thermostat opens, it allows water to flow through the radiator to provide additional cooling to try and keep the engine termperature to a reasonable level. Thermostat temperatures Opens at approximately 80 C (176 F) VAG part number b 075 121 113 D (approx. £20, but £10 from TPS) Closes at approximately 105 C (221 F)...apparently! Stroke min. 7.0mm (9/32 in.) - i.e. it's supposed to open by at least 7mm. Thermostat fault finding If the thermostat is jammed open (usual state of failure) then your engine will take ages to get up to temp and thus be running rich and using a lot of fuel. The engine doesn't switch over to it's normal running map until it reads 70 degrees on the coolant temperature. If the thermostat is jammed closed, your engine will overheat very easily and most likely start popping hoses. This is easy to spot and the radiator won't be getting hot if this is the case. You can take the thermostat out and put it in a pan of water on the hob to test whether it opens or not. It's always a good idea to test new thermostats like this to ensure you haven't got a dud. Fan controller repair Apparently, the fan controller units (the box of relays in front of the washer fluid bottle). There's a couple of diodes inside that can come unsoldered from the PCB, but can be reattached with some soldering action. Coolant Always refill your coolant system with the bright pink (hurrah!) G12+ coolant. Older G11 and G12 coolants shouldn't be used and certainly not mixed together as they'll clag up the coolant system. If possible, flush out the coolant system with clean water from a hose before re-filling. The VR coolant system capacity is about 9 litres and the concentrations you should use are on the label of the G12+ bottles. However, for UK use where the temperature doesn't really get down all that cold, 3 litres (2 bottles) of G12+ will suffice and just fill the rest with water. Pumps! Main water pump This is the main engine water pump and is on the left side of the engine, driven by the serpentine belt. VAG part number for a new pump with gasket: b021121004X It's also worth getting the 3 new allen-head bolts that hold the pump into the block. VAG part number: N90221803 (x3) Annd while you're there, why not get some new allen-head bolts that hold the pulley to the pump too. VAG part number: N90544202 (x3) Aux water pump This is the electric pump by the right side the engine. Brace yourself, it's about £120! VAG part number: b251965561B Aux water pump rubber ring mounting thingies. VAG part number: 035959209E Oil pump This is also an uber-expensive part (circa £100). It lives in the sump and is driven by a shaft that comes down from inside the block. VAG part number: 021115105B The pump is held in with two allen-head bolts. VAG part numbers: N90355902 (x2) Coming from the oil pump is a pipe that feeds the oil back into the engine. This has a gasket for it, which appears to be obsolete and is held on with another 2 allen-head bolts. VAG part number: N10227803 (x2) As the sump needs to come off to get at it, you're best replacing the sump gasket too. This is quite expensive (circa £35) and does change depending on car vintage. Early cars use VAG part number b021103609. Later cars use VAG part number b021103609B. No, I don't know what the difference is :( Lastly, if you're really keen, you can replace all 26 of the bolts holding the sump on as well. Again, this changes depending on if you have early or late engine, but changes at the same time the sump gasket does. I'd imagine as long as you've got the same screws as gasket, then you'll be ok. Early cars use VAG part number +N90008401 (x26) and are M6x14mm. Later cars use VAG part number: +N90423402 (x26) and are M6x17mm and self-locking. Low temp parts You can get lower temperature thermostats and radiator fan switches. These are just parts from other VWs, so don't go paying silly prices for them. Personally, I'd avoid the lower-temp thermostats as they can make the engine run too cool. The VR6's cold running map doesn't switch off until 70 C water temp, so if your Neuspeed low sender is opening at 70 C instead of the normal 80 C, you may stay in cold running mode for a bit longer than usual...and the blue temp sender has quite a big influence on the overall fuelling ;-) The lower temp rad switch makes sense though - the low-temp fan switches (the one that goes into the radiator) - all are from a T4 Transporter: Option 1 - VAG part number 701 959 481 This will only fit early VRs with the 3 pins all in a row, so check first! Stage 1 On at: 87 C Off at: 76 C Stage 2 On at: 93 C Off at: 82 C Option 2 - VAG part number 251 959 481 K Same as the above, but for later Transporters... thus it might have the triangular-shaped pin layout. Maybe. Sadly, there don't seem to be any lower-temp versions of the magic Stage 3 fan sender, but it's not too hard to wire stage 3 to come on at the same time as stage 2. Wiring up a dash-switch for stage 3 Don't forget the quality "wire up fan stage 3 to a dash switch" mod ;-) An hour with a bit of wire and a switch will do wonders for your summer traffic temps. You can bridge the red/black stage 2 wire and also the black stage 3 wires with a 2 way switch and manually start them in the car. Lastly, Mr. Cheesewire has also discovered you only need one, yes ONE, 11" SPAL fan to keep the water at 95 deg constantly in traffic, even when it's 27 deg C outside, like it was last night when he was stuck on the A12 for an hour waiting for an accident to clear... Cold ECU map Lambda closed loop engages when water temp reachs 70 deg. That's why VRs always feel quicker when they're warming up because they're in open loop and running rich :D

happy to report that after 14 months the VR6 is finally back home with essentially a brand new underside & nut & bolt restoration plus the Autostrada Modena's are on & looking mighty fine if i do say so myself lol pity you cant see any of the work that has just cost me a small fortune (over double what i had guessed at) but the first few journeys out have made me realise quite how much i had missed this car! the ride is sublime & the refreshed KW's feel great & the noise - nothing quite like it spent most of the weekend cleaning & resinstalling the interior, only sub & door cards left a quick pic from a gloomy drive today

Hell yea! Keep us updated. Can't wait to see if it works

Your rear stub axles will be oval by now. Jack the rear wheels up, handbrake off. Hold the wheels at 3 and 9 o'clock, with new bearings there should be some play (if not the bearings will squeegee the grease away and you have metal on metal and premature failure), swap to 12 and 6 o'clock, if there's more play this is an indication of oval stub axles. Most testers are too young to have experienced taper bearings and compare them to cassette bearings on modern cars and fail / advise is the norm.

Check the blue/white wire in the radio loom - it is probably connected wrong or earthing against something randomly. It should only be connected if you have a radio that support speed dependent volume control (GALA) and not many do. Otherwise, the spoiler control module may be at fault, and worth swapping out with one that is known to work.

Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.

Sent you the email they sent me. You’ll note the guys name. He’s the one you want to deal with.

I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....

YU is coming up blank on that site now for some reason, but that's the stock beige colour as in the photo. I bought my dye from here; https://www.liquidleather.co.uk/leather-dyes-c48/dyes-c91/leather-dye-1l-p144 In the options for checkout, it'll ask for the manufacturer and colour code. They have it on file so are able to mix it without you having to send something for them to match the colour against.

Can’t be many of you one owners left. Looks like you’ve been looking after it well too. I’m guessing coil overs to make it so pretty and some body work done at some point and didn’t put the bump strips back as you liked the cleaner look, as do I.

Luis, I owned the car before C488ADO purchased it from me, it was an auto at the time but as far as Im aware never had porsche seats, It had grey recaros when I had it and i owned it for several years and used to show it on the cars stands at the VW shows im trying to remember when i sold it I definately owned it in 2008 as I have a photo of it at the house that I lived in then, I left there in 2010 and dont think I owned the car at that point, it was a very reluctant sale, a change of job meant I needed something newer and more reliable as I was going to see clients I searched for a long time before buying the car as she had to be a 95my blackberry vr6 the photo I have was taken 8th november 2008 showing the car 😉 also have a photo of her on the club stand at the tatton park show 4th jan 2009

This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.

It's a tick box in your notification settings.

It's CCK068: HEL Performance Braided FULL LENGTH Clutch Line Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) | eBay HEL Braided Clutch Line Hose VW Corrado Master Cylinder Slave 89-95 CCK068 Y3305 for sale online | eBay Volkswagen Corrado All Engines (1989-1995) Flexible Braided Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder Clutch Line | Corrado | Volkswagen | Clutch Lines | Braided Lines | Car (helperformance.com) Oddly, didn't find it on their website when I first looked, but must just have missed it. Only difference from the standard fit is that I don't think it will clip into the first clip after the master cylinder as that will put too much of a bend in the line. Should be able to get the grommet off the original and slide it on so that it clips into the bracket welded to the side of the chassis near the battery tray. I'll take a photo when it's on the car to illustrate.

I deleted an obvious spam attempt this morning. Watch out because the spammers will try to brute a moderator account to approve the post if they can - I had three attempts and lock outs over night. Maybe a good time to change your moderator passwords and make sure they are of a decent strength and complexity.

I have my Red 92 G60 Mk2 tornado 16v - my first resto - has sat for 2 years now and in need of a refresh Mk2 Pearl Grey 16v - currently rebuilding the engine (trying) and is currently a bare shell with bits of welding to be carried out Blue Corrado VR6 - which you put me onto - future project And my family think i am NUTS when it comes to these cars

Looks nice, HNV is a Bedford / Milton Keynes Reg so maybe a press car or registered to VW head office? Other than that I don't think I've seen it before? I can't remember the reg of my own cars let alone anybody elses lol

Could be the motor on the fan too

Be concise and polite explaining the situation, obsolete / unobtainable in your country etc You never know your luck

Looks a great example, well done. Be careful with the sunroof. A mk3 golf unit swaps straight in. Do you know if the mechanism is working fine? If it is faulty and you wind it back electrically it could damage the sunroof panel.... perhaps try doing it manually first using the Allen key at the sunroof motor. Fingers crossed that it is ok, preventative maintenance, lube the runner channels. Even better, take the lot out, strip it down, clean it, then lube it. Big job but worth it in the long term. Too many are broken out there and no spares are available Great car 👍

Ive got an old set of notes from Dennis on the now sadly defunct Canadian corrado club. I remember i had a real issue with the soldering of the relevant wires as they're so thick! Anyway, hope it helps. Just drop me a line if you need any more input. Hasan Wiring Modifications.doc

Mrs had a 2010 Tdi for 2.5 years, nothing but servicing and a pair of rear spring broken - got rid of it after the emissions upgrade due to poorer low throttle response and dpf regen too frequent imo. a lad at work also has a Tdi with 130k and had a bill of around 1200 for the last mot for rear suspension springs, bushes and the electronically adjustable Dampers - they warned him of the impending fate of the front for the next mot..... he’s getting rid of it. The mrs is now a Scirocco spotter, “Ohh my old car” every journey - it’s the only car she’s ever taken any notice of... “Saw a lovely purple one today, have you seen the grey one on the new estate”, follow by “When you going to get your shit cars off my patio”...

It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up.

Been tinting rear lights

I have my fan out the car still. The only markings on it are A52/C2. I could happily send people pictures, but have GIVEN UP TRYING ON HERE ...

Nothing wrong with a colour coded grill, especially on darker colours. I quite liked my Twilight one that way anyway:)

The bolts and speed clips are still available from all good VW garages.

Congratulations on the prize. It is a great show, have attended the last couple of years but couldn't make today. Shame as the weather was great..

The car looked absloutley stunning all weekend. Well deserved, unfortunatley I never got the chance to speak to you

Awesome. Payment and PM sent!

get yourself on the suppliers thread - Daves16v does a handle repair kit I currently have them on both of the VR handles & will buy some for the valver just in case, sorry for when they go lol

You're welcome and yes, I forgot the dash grills will come out by prising a flat head screwdriver underneath (carefully!)

Welcome, nice Storm Grey, bit of info here if you havn't already seen it >> http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?84779-Storm-Grey-VR6-with-B12

Looks a lovely example . Welcome along to the forum .

Lovely! Looks super clean!

Your assumption is correct, I am on the East coast; born and raised in Bronx, NY but currently reside in Manassas, VA. It would appear as if we have a similar taste in vehicles; my main project is a Mk1 Scirocco S1, I was hoping to have her done by August but life throws lemons at you sometimes.. I have learned to make lemonaid with them. I know all about the Chevy vs. Ford crap. Personally I admire any well made machine. In terms of recommendation, I still stand with the 2.8 Vr6. You can do a mild and cheap build, the sound and performance will keep you satisfied until you're ready for more. When the time comes, you can swap in a larger 3.6l Vr6, and the rest is yours. You can also throw guru bucks at it and convert it to AWD, I know one day I may consider that swap. Have you heard of the Lugtronic Stand alone engine management system? That is the last big purchase I need to make for my build. As far as the Turbo vs. SC goes; both make great power and are good for there purposes. If you are after the numbers, I recommend Turbo, if you are after drivibility, I recommend a SC. Depend on where you go, who you talk to, and what you read, you can find supporting arguments for both sides. A lot of people go after Turbos to get that Cherp sound or the sound of the dwindling down after hard acceleration but both hurt performance and, more importantly, can damage your turbo. I can speak on both forms of FI and N/A motors very well and honestly recommend both, based on build goals; just as long as they are being used appropriately. You seem to be on the right track and I don't doubt, for a second, you will be able to tackle this with ease. Researching is your best tool, use and abuse that sucker!

Hi Have a look at my thread for the conversion - Hope it helps http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82498

No doubt the price does as well.

Aluminium shifts heat better than steel too, so oil temp should be a little lower. Shame it's not finned!

Already well on the case with the fuel filler modification, think I mentioned it in the first post when I outlined the plans. The 1Z doesn't have an in-tank fuel pump at all, the engine driven injector pump acts as the lift pump on its own but I'm going to retain the 8V in-tank pump anyway. I've devised a modification to the fuel lines to allow any excess fuel to return to the tank before it reaches the injector pump (basically a stepped 'H' fitting in the feed and return lines). I'll describe it better once I've built it :) Supercharged - I'd be really interested in seeing some pictures of your TDi if at all possible? Cheers Tom

The car is a 1995 VR6 I've done some searching around on the forum and learnt a lot - but i just want to get some views before i invest in a new fuel pump. Here's a detailed description of the issue - some of these points may be red herrings: - Unfortunately allowed the fuel level to get very low then filled up with a full tank of BP unleaded [normally i only use optimax] - 11 miles later whilst driving on the motorway at about 70mph the car started to lose power, then was jerking around like a kangaroo! Pulled the car on to the hard shoulder - turned it off and on again and then it seemed better. - Drove another 100 miles that day, mainly motorway driving with slight hesitation esp when starting in first gear and also with low revs in second gear - car pulled and ran fine for most of the journey. - My friend who was in the car during all this said he'd had the same issue on his golf 16v and injector cleaner had helped. - Next day replaced the fuel filter and tried again - still serious hesitation to the point of almost stalling when pulling away. Once above 2500rpm power is good. - Then added injector cleaner which made about a 50% improvement with this issue - hesitation felt far less. But still present - also at high revs (4000/4500rpm) in 4/5th hesitation is felt. I think its the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank getting in to the fuel system. I had hoped the cheaper options of new fuel filter and injector cleaner would cure it - but its still there. Would adding injector cleaner again to the next tank full be advisable? Or is it bad to use it too often? Does it sound like the fuel pump is on its way out? Is there anyway to diagnose this before i pay for the fuel pump to be replaced? Could it be something else such as spark plugs? Any help appreciated :roll: I should add that the idle is very stable and smooth - it idles happily at about 600rpm and also the car fires first time without issue.

Remove the Chin Spoiler indicators fog lights and holders Temp sensor connector (front right of bumber if sat in C) Undo plastic wheel arch protectors where needed jack front of car up and get onto stands each side of the engine are 3 bolts, undo the outside two on each side DO NOT REMOVE THE MIDDLE ONE otherwise the engine WILL drop on you bumper slides forward