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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Check for vac leaks

You sorted it, so a great result

Be careful, scammers lurk and dm rather than post

Morning all! it’s been a while… life took over and things have been busy, too much for this time of day. I still have Corrado number 10, although it’s not been on the road since Covid. It did start earlier in the year, but needs a full respray before it goes anywhere. I’m not doing that until I’ve built a garage, which is getting closer to a reality. Meanwhile I went through a B8 RS4 and C7 RS6 before picking up a V8 R8 in the summer, a natural progression from the Corrado and they do look great side by side. I often look about for very good examples of Corrado’s and think it’d be cheaper and easier just to pick one of them up than sort mine! Hope all is well with those still here, maybe I’ll have some more exciting news in 25!

Front Crossmember built up with powerflex bushes Got a set of H+R ARB,s 23mm front +25mm rear. I had these on a previous mk2 golf gti and loved them ! Fitted on the front The koni dampers and springs came with the car but needed to be built up with new bumpstops and top mounts

You'll likely be fine with the Lucas as the part no is the right one. It's a good brand too. Do you know if your car has a pierburg or vdo pump currently? Mine is an early '94 car and had pierberg so on replacing with a vdo pump i had to buy the vdo sender as well as the pierburg one is different.. https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_uk/part/535919673C?epis=&ct=3&q=535919673C

That is my thought as well. Try to track down a busted wire or connector in there somewhere. Try testing the wiring and while you are testing it, wiggle the wires around a little bit to see if you have a drop in voltage or not. If you do, then you know that you possibly have a short somewhere in the wiring

Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.

I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan

Welcome Jensen! I have just returned onto the forum and also looking forward to some shows and cruises this year with likeminded members based around the East Midlands! Finally finished my restoration late last year! Late 95 conversion also in black 😉

Brilliant, I can’t wait to see this. Looks like weather behaved as well 🙂.

I’d agree that you’d be better with two fans in operation as when the stage 2 fan engages as that’s the idea, one fan isn’t enough as the temp has gone so the rad sender engages the second stage, going from one fan to the other won’t improve your cooling one bit. It’s a nice little project sorting the fans and wiring out. Something else to bear in mind is the auxiliary water pump, you need to see how he’s wired the fans. If he’s bypassed the main fan controller unit chances are this won’t be running if the fans come on when you turn the engine off. You can tell if the auxiliary pump is working by just turning the ignition on without engaging the starter motor, you should hear the pump run for 30 seconds or so, no buzzing and it is duff.

Thank you. I will be putting her on Pistonheads and a few other places but thought I'd give you guys here first opportunity. I know a fellow forum member would really look after her 😉

It's a good question and to be honest - it's hard to say! I did the fans at the same time as I did the engine rebuild so I haven't got a direct comparison on a fresh engine. They are the same size as the stock fans (11"); you might just be able to squeeze in 12" if you wanted to go bigger. Currently my engine temp sits at about 100 C in slow moving traffic in this weather which is OK I think. To be honest I thought it would be a little bit better than that what with the engine rebuild, but I don't know what would be considered low and high temps; however, I'm sure you'd get this with a stock fans as well. When I first got the car 10 years ago I am sure it ran fairly cool in traffic, around 90-100 (memory might be playing tricks there though!). I'm sure other people could confirm but 100 doesn't seem wildly low or beyond the realms of the OEM ones, but then who knows, if I had stuck with OEM fans I might be getting temps of 110 or so. I did have issues with engine temps sitting in traffic for long periods in the couple of years before I started the rebuild, to the point where the engine would start to run badly, and be on the verge of cutting out. But that was with a tired old engine so not really a good comparison. I also need to do an engine flush as I think deposits have built up in the rad (the old pipes I took off were coated) which won't help, so the fans might be battling against that. For the moment I am a little bit sceptical about whether it was worth it: It was a bloody hassle to sort (although would be a lot easier now I've done it once and got a guide), it's not really that much lighter (if you were thinking of that - about 1kg less), and doesn't seem to be greatly cooler. Think they might be a little bit quieter.

A quick hello from a returning Corrado owner, although it was 25 years ago! Picked a Vr6 up in March, I’m a member on the Corrado club and It was well known on there and I think the previous owner posted on here too. Although already a clean car wanted to take it to the next level so have been refurbing all the underside slowly. Hopefully get it too some shows next year to meet you guys 😁

i hate them too! Mine are all nicely greased but the drivers side on seems to struggle in the middle for some reason. I would do the following: Pop off the white base rollers, clean and grease. Use a light grease Clean the centre channel on which the main slider slides. I would use either a heavy oil or again some light grease here Finally, make sure the two side channels are clear - use a piece of cloth to remove any loose debris. Clean and spray with a silicone spray. If its still the same, you'll prob need to take the motor mech out, clean it and grease it up again. Not fun. But hopefully the first few steps should sort it Hasan

as luck would have it there is one spare loom available as he made an extra one it would be £83 posted & is as the other with OE connectors all round pls let me know if you would like it 🙂

In between I also experimented with 3D printing. Especially for smaller parts 3D printing should be optimal. Unfortunately I had to realize that the quality is not good enough in my opinion. Therefore I stopped the production of some parts. Especially the clips of the speedometer are complicated to make. There are 3-4 different versions of these clips. It is almost impossible to make a universal version that fits all frames. (535858508 & 535858507) (535 827 769) Most materials used for 3D printing are simply too hard and brittle. Maybe it would be possible to assemble them once, but they would break at the latest when disassembling them.

Normally £100 - £150.

Looks like the seller of the car has carried out some great renovation work to the car- pretty sure I can see a new rad in there. Looks like the paint if fresh to - I would say they have spent a lot of money on this car at least 7k plus/

Well after 21years my original has been sold. I had been contemplating for some time now so a chat with my brother resulted in a trip to Shrewsbury and a rendezvous so he could take it back North. We were open to sensible offers, fundamentally it was more about finding the right individual who would continue to look after her. We think that has been achieved. So she is now in Cambridgeshire.

Golf MK3 fuel tank Part number 1H0 201 075AR 55ltr tank with no restricted fuel neck 26mm From 1992 to 1997 Golf MK3 fuel tank 1H0 201 075AS 55ltr tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1992 to 1997 I think the Golf MK3 fuel tank/s are 55ltr only and can come with two different sized fuel neck diameters of 26mm and 22mm. Whereas the Corrado is available in 55ltr and 70ltr tanks and I think only has fuel neck diameter of 22mm. Hope this helps Si

No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.

Why? Ok it's a KR, but aside from a wing and bit of paint on the front bumper it doesn't look that bad. It's been off the road for a number of years granted and it's not a great ad, but that doesn't mean it's unsalvageable, far from it. Some people want a project and will be happy to pay 2 -2.5k (which is my estimate of it from the pics) for something they can slowly restore. It's not always about end gain, appreciation or the investment, it's about enjoying the hobby and someone will only have a budget that will stretch so far to begin with. It's a decent enough starter for someone and if they swap the Recaros for a set of leather in fair condition, it'll look like a bargain. I've been in ownership long enough to know what can and can't be done with a bit of knowhow and enthusiasm.

Trying to ignore this the best I can.

I bought one of the all aluminium ones from eBay for £150 as I was having trouble with leaks from the elbow flange and these come with that flange welded on as part of it. Didn't need to modify the car, only make a couple of brackets to fit it in replacement of the small L shaped brackets. The fan assembly bolted straight on and the bottom locating pins are in the right place. I will post some photos of this Friday if your interested?

Good work guys. Great experience with your renewals team just. Firstly very open and honest and secondly, matching last year's quote, which will do me for another year at least. Fills me with the confidence that should a need to claim ever arise, you'll look after me in the same manner. Thanks, Waz

Have a late style front indicator brand new in box surplus to requirements. £40 posted or £35 collect at VW Festival Harewood 😉 Thanks. Kip Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

The bolts and speed clips are still available from all good VW garages.

Well done corrado brother always nice to see rados up there Sent from my SM-G357FZ using Tapatalk

After what feels like forever, I have some progress (touch wood!)... The newly rebuilt charger from Only Charged Dubs arrived yesterday so it was all hands to the pump to get it fitted before the weekend. Got the old one removed (again) and then fitted the new one, fitted the new oil feed and return pipes and carried out an engine flush and oil change with the correct grade of oil 10w40 Semi Synthetic. Primed the new charger as per the instructions, and then let the car idle and got the engine up to temperature to check for leaks etc. After a few adjustments, it was started again and after a few minutes I slowly increased the revs from idle upto 1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2000rpm and then 2200rpm when I heard what can only be described as a scary noise! Almost like a buzzing from the charger area. Checked the oil feed pipe, yep plenty of oil in there. By this time, it was getting late and I'd had enough for one evening, so I packed everything away and thought I'd tackle it again in the morning with after some sleep... Saturday morning and I started the car up and again let it idle up to temperature, another quick check in the daytime for leaks was also done. Increased the revs as I had done the previous day and the noise returned. I phoned OCD and spoke to Matt who said that you can sometimes get noises from the chargers after a rebuild, and to take the car for a drive and see how I got on, which I did. At first the noise remained, and I was ready to admit defeat when after a longer drive at a constant RPM, the noise got quieter! I carried on driving, and the more I was driving the better the noise got! Now I'm not sure if this is normal, or anyone has come across this before (would be good to hear if anyone has), but long story short I have covered 80 miles today with varying loads whilst keeping the RPM under 3000RPM as per the instructions for running in, and the noise has gone completely and I'm just left with the hollow G60 noise (hard to describe) that from what I can work out, is normal. So fingers crossed all is good now, and I can start to enjoy Corrado ownership again! I'm guessing that the oil just needed to get to all the right places within the charger and driving it more obviously got the lubrication to where it needed to go, and perhaps it was a slightly dry seal thats now been lubricated? Who know's I'm not that clued up on G-Laders but as long as that noise stays away and the boost stays within the engine then I'm happy!

Another vote for toad ai606, had 2 now and both absolutely spot on.

I hope everyone else out there is sitting with the lights off and just the odd candle dug out from under the sink.... M. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/video_and_audio/

Jim - it's £81 on Carparts4less and there is £10 off a £75 spend using a code on the front page!!

Your assumption is correct, I am on the East coast; born and raised in Bronx, NY but currently reside in Manassas, VA. It would appear as if we have a similar taste in vehicles; my main project is a Mk1 Scirocco S1, I was hoping to have her done by August but life throws lemons at you sometimes.. I have learned to make lemonaid with them. I know all about the Chevy vs. Ford crap. Personally I admire any well made machine. In terms of recommendation, I still stand with the 2.8 Vr6. You can do a mild and cheap build, the sound and performance will keep you satisfied until you're ready for more. When the time comes, you can swap in a larger 3.6l Vr6, and the rest is yours. You can also throw guru bucks at it and convert it to AWD, I know one day I may consider that swap. Have you heard of the Lugtronic Stand alone engine management system? That is the last big purchase I need to make for my build. As far as the Turbo vs. SC goes; both make great power and are good for there purposes. If you are after the numbers, I recommend Turbo, if you are after drivibility, I recommend a SC. Depend on where you go, who you talk to, and what you read, you can find supporting arguments for both sides. A lot of people go after Turbos to get that Cherp sound or the sound of the dwindling down after hard acceleration but both hurt performance and, more importantly, can damage your turbo. I can speak on both forms of FI and N/A motors very well and honestly recommend both, based on build goals; just as long as they are being used appropriately. You seem to be on the right track and I don't doubt, for a second, you will be able to tackle this with ease. Researching is your best tool, use and abuse that sucker!

I received the prototype binnacle covers yesterday. I will try and get some pictures up tonight to get a verdict from folks! Initial impressions are reasonably positive. As you'd expect size wise they are a perfect copy as they are a 3D scanned copy. Clips and everything look good so should be a perfect fit. The minor downsides I guess are that they're printed in a white plastic and then painted black on top. The coverage isn't totally perfect but I think once they're fitted you'd struggle to see any white plastic anywhere, and for those that were not totally happy a quick coat of a gloss black plastikote or similar would do the job. The texture on the top isn't exactly the same, but again, given the size of the pieces and their location, I'd be surprised if anyone noticed. I'm building myself up to prising off my current speedo binnacle covers (because I'm worried they'll break!) and test fitting these to see how they look over the weekend, and subject to feedback on the pictures, will be looking to put an order in with the company soon. Prices look to be as I estimated - about £10/pair delivered. Further updates as I have them!

hence why female cars are 'powered by fairydust!' when I got the rado' I gave the wife my looked after lupo and sold her car so now the little lupo's her daily, put some hard work into that little beast, I honestly wish I had sold it and let her drive whatever she wanted. its like watching your best mate getting beat up in the school playground! :bonk:

Optimum no rinse Mic. Lots of pro detailers use it or another no rinse prooduct in the height of summer, or when a hosepipe ban is in force. Have a read up on it. I cant say Ive ever used it tbh, but it does get rave reviews.

I wonder if some of the H&R/Koni's harshness is to do with the bump settings in the dampers because the H&R springs aren't that hard. Low and high speed bump (or compression) can't be adjusted unfortunately. You can only adjust the rebound. Just to remind folk of the different damper characteristics: Low speed bump - The damper compressing slowly: brake dive, turn-in, driving up a kerb, B road undulations etc High speed bump - The damper compressing quickly: Potholes, speed bumps, cats eyes etc. Rebound - The damper returning to it's static state. This is the one that makes the car feel more 'planted' and sporty. It's the setting we notice the most and is usually the only adjustment offered. Damper manufacturers would prefer that we trust their judgement on the bump settings, especially the high speed one, but KW do at least give you a low speed adjustment on the V3s. Personally I think user adjustment of high speed bump would solve a few crashiness issues, but in order to get 3 way adjustable kits, you're looking at the wrong side of £2500. But if you consider what some peeps spend on their Corrados on superficial stuff, personally, I'd rather sink more into getting the car to corner and ride properly. And just to reiterate, 'coilovers' (or ride height adjustable to use the correct term) as a configuration isn't crashy. They can be way softer than the standard setup if so desired. It's the technology and settings that determine the ride quality. Just thought I'd throw that in as many people automatically associate crashiness to coilovers. It's the cheap £250 ebay specials that give the configuration a bad name. I tend to think of suspension as a tailored suit vs an off the peg Moss Bros one.

As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine. Have a look and tell me what you think!

Put a link up so to help people out in the future fella

Here's how mine sits on my 2.0 16v:

With the car running you may want to turn the car full lock left to right a few times and keep an eye on the power steering fluid and top up as necessary. It should quiten down after several turns. Turn the steering wheel from outside with the driver window down so you can dont have to get in and out of the car all the time and you can hear the whine and top up fluid easier.