Leaderboard

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Hi all, i thought it was high time i shared my G60 build with you . This car is now completed so the thread updates aren't in real time so its a copy and paste exercise for the most part but i will try to keep to thread updated in the future . Thanks for reading . Okay so back in 2020 i already had a G60 in black as a project bought on a bit of a whim and which needed quite a bit of work ! Always on the hunt for parts for it i had bought a few random parts off a uk ebay seller , by chance i spotted in one of his pictures the faintest outline of a what looked like a fairly complete car in red. enquired what the story with it and i turned out that this was the car he was breaking the parts for sale off !! Turns out he had owned the car since 2001 and had embarked on a semi refresh of the underside of the car not long after purchasing it ,the usual jobs ,subframe ,rear beam ,wishbones blasted and powdercoated ,new supsension etc. only it seems like he had bitten off more than he could chew ,along with a very small workspace ( see below )it just seemed to have gotten the better of him and he lost interest in it . Years later he starting selling of bits of the car gradually on ebay where i came across him. He was willing to sell off the remains of the car so a deal was done , i bought the whole lot sight unseen ,i was taking a bit of a chance on it but the cost of the new spare parts that came with it alone was worth the asking price.

Had this week off work so got it out the garage, cleaned and waxed it ready. Planning to take it off SORN Monday so it’ll piss it down the next month!

I had to pull over and get this one !

Can't seem to start a new thread, so will just reply here. Not often the fleet is all together, but took the corrado out for it's last run before SORN for winter. Managed to fit a new water pump and radiator, then noticed the wires had broken on the O2 sensor again, so fixed that as it was running rough. Thought I had cracked it as the mpg was heading back out the teens into the mid twenties, but just as I pulled into the drive it started popping and banging so will need to fault finding again. The joys of classic car ownership!

I did the solid column years ago, it does make it feel a lot more positive, The cowls are getting hard to find, early and late “bottoms” are the same,just different part numbers, tops are different due to the hazard light ! Had the car in the body shop last Xmas, new sills, (eBay ones)came galvanised.Fitted really well, rear arches were showing signs of tin worm, so scored a set of second hand arches of eBay, cleaned up like new ! Front wings were not good, couldn’t find a decent set of late wings,so got a set of used “early”wings from a breaker local to me (eBay again) nearly rust free,the metal seems thicker on the earlier wings ! Body shop did a really good job putting it all together, bottom of the car was resprayed ,looks new again, struggling to put pics up at the moment

Still look in practically every day Still have the G60 but due to go for its winter hibernation Still have various projects ongoing when i have the time which is not a lot at present

So bringing this thread up to date here is the car as more or less is at present. ITs fully legal now and ended up being only 214 euro VRT due to being over 30 years old .Result!! I've also got these VW Sebring 16" wheels made by Bstar for that oem+ look .Have got around to fitting them as of yet !

Went for the 205/45/16s and I think worked out well , driving good no rubbing … thanks for the help guys 👍 including pic … it’s a bit dirty out there with the frost

drop your name on here Triple relay uprated headlight looms - Page 14 - Forum Group-Buys - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) i will send out some PM's to those who have put name down so far & try to get it moving along

I asked in VWVortex like Popeye775 said and the first answer said yes it is factory.

From the VIN number, mine was produced 342 from the end of the production run so they were probably using up the parts they had left, and I’ve owned it since it was less than five years old so I expect it’s the original one too as it was too new for things to have started breaking! No UK cars were built with a/c but mine is definitely 2 plug and I’m sure that both plugs were wired when I fitted the Climatronic, I just had to add extra wires to the smaller plug.

Toby just replied, myself and Fendervg are Moderators again 👍

Totally agree, looks worth the money. Can only help Corrado prices 🤞 GLWS

Looks immachttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155661035229?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Df316b4877e9f4f779d675eb8bf24e0bc%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D155661035229%26itm%3D155661035229%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042ulate, 58K miles £24,000

Great looking motor and price. Too much for me but I am sure someone will put it in their garage. I always enjoy an advert for a standard car and then read the tasteful modifications

Thanks to all of you for the help, really appreciate it. So.... I felt like to go to the bottom of this I had to do something I promised myself not to do again after replacing the heater matrix... I only had to remove a few trims though this time and got a access to it. Replaced it with the old one and got all 4 speeds working again! So that new one must be defective I guess. Case closed, up to the next ha haa. Cheers

I wouldn’t buy a recently restored car, the recent price increases make a bondo and newspaper restoration a financial win for a seller, then 12 months down the line it has more blisters than a herpes convention. If you can find a car with online history from a good owner cashing out (rather than cashing in) that’s where I suggest you put your money.

Hi , My mate has a well sorted Alpine White VR in Leicester for sale- has a very nice black leather interior to - stealth looked after the car for him and has many new parts. Send me a pm and I can pass on you his details if your interested .

Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.

There's 2 on ebay, £400 and £130

As for the alarm, trace each wire and remove it. Join back any that have been interrupted by the Gemini system. Then see what you are working with

Finally fitted a stainless washer to the ARB drop link. Hopefully if it ever fails it can not spin round and rip my CV boot, again. I love preventative maintenance .Top tip Just need to do the other side sometime

Merry Christmas one and all.

Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425

Speaking for the later ones If you’ve ever had different model ones and compared them they are all pretty much the same, the VR6 one just has a little bracket welded on. I just got a later one and welded my old ones extra bracket on. Moving on to the earlier models I’m betting if you get any early one you will be able to make it work for the G60 as they are pressed with a variety of holes not just 2 specific to your model

L824 WLD grey Vr6 joined the M1 motorway travelling south 06:25. Looked in good condition, although the heater doesnt work as he had his hoody up 🤣🤣

That's the feed line - comes from the tank to the pump, then to the filter and then to your fuel accumulator. There should also be a return line that goes straight back to the tank.

Hi all, I've been away from the forum for a number of years now after selling my last Rado. At the time, my wife and I (now ex-wife sadly, we even met here on the forum) found we couldn't have children, so opted to adopt a dog (less expensive than kids, so more money for cars). Sadly he wasn't too keen on being in the back of a Rado, and we didn't think it'd be fair dragging him along to meets etc, and trips to the Pod. So, we sold the Rado and bought a Land Rover. I'm now with someone else, expecting our second child. The current mrs isn't into the Landy and green laning, so I've been considering getting back to the Rado scene, as she's more likely to be persuaded into joining me on that front. Having come back to the forum, I thought it would be good to find out how my last ride is doing. We sold it to a fellow enthusiast (I think he was already a member here) who had plans for it (thankfully not like the muppet/con man that bought my 1.8 16v.......also a member on here sadly), and I'd love to see how it looks now. So, if you're the current owner of the Rado in the subject title, please feel free to post some photos on this thread, I miss the car and would love to see it again, even if just a photo or two.

It's a 1995 M plate in LC6U green ( I think that's the right paint code) it's got full black leather with heated seats, it's even got the original matts front and back and the sunroof works! I've done loads to it since I got in in November, it's had all new fluids, brake callipers, disks and pads all round. A full service with new spark plugs, leads and a coil pack as it had got a big split in the side of it. The throttle body and Maff have been off and cleaned and I also changed the sump and gasket as it was "weeping" a bit. The idle's not brilliant on it at the minute but I'm working on that and it's being Terra Cleaned next Saturday so hopefully that will clean the injectors. The front fogs were completely gone due to the heat so I have changed them for the JOM ones you can buy from Germany and there absolutely brilliant and well worth the money. The paints a little tired where it's just been left with years of dust on it and the garage it was in was only small so it's been knocked a bit, from a distance it looks immaculate but within a meter you can tell so I had someone out Thursday so price up to paint it which I'll have done in July/August time. The forum is really good as I like reading and it tells you where to look for problems, one I found was where dirt gets trapped behind the fuel filler neck and corrodes the body out. I've taken the fuel tank out (really quite easy) and cleaned POR 15 any rust, stone chipped and repainted all the wheel arches in the original body colour, looks brand new but without the forum I wouldn't know where to look. I've also changed the suspension to coil overs as the originals were as rusty as hell plus is lowered the car just that bit. Really enjoying the challenge.. Sorry going on a bit now..

It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.

Corrados never had wiper motor covers, peeps just put them on to make them look a bit nicer.

Well, after seeing the wheeler dealers episode i might buy the sub £2k corrados, do a bit of soldering and change an oil cooler and sell them on for £4k :lol:

Corrado looks nice, that sportline looked a beaut too. I used to have a red sportline a few years ago.

Nice,welcome :)

Correct assumption Campaign , it's very much a Glasgow thing, eternally optimistic :)

Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you

Pics might be in wrong order, just tried to link them all again, in a rush :lol:

Real bummer that , and to top it off you have to pay to get it back! Glad she is fine apart from the hotwire damage .

I believe you can use something along the lines of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-805-Volkswagen-Speaker-Adaptor-Lead-Cable-Stereo-CD-/150566801843?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 You may find this item much cheaper somewhere else thought.

Because it makes me smile when driving back roads or up the west coast. Because it's easy to maintain Because it's been very reliable Because it's the best value for money out there in my opinion when you take everything into account Because it's different Because it has a V6 Because parts are cheap (compared to an Audi S4 for example!) I could go on :)

U1/6 will be at the fuse box in the footwell not engine bay.that green wire should go to the old digifant ecu.Have you not removed it?

Vr6 arb fastens different and wider, and if you have done the 4x100 to 5x100widetrack conversion as it sounds like you have, u need a vr6 arb track rods, wishbones, hubs and driveshafts, all these parts are also on mk3 vr6s and mk3 gtis, if your struggling to find track Rods n arb I've got some in my garage

This is one for Andi i guess? There is a small icon, sometimes green under the username status eg Donator/Super Moderator etc Some only say the username when you hover over it.......BUT some people are either on a distinguished road or an unknown quantity So what is it? :scratch: