fendervg

On the brakes, not sure how up to date this is re part numbers: There was also a more recent one as well, of a build with plenty of photos.

Late Mk3 VR6 had 288s - probably a bit scarce on the ground. They fit easily under standard 15" Speedlines, but not as well with other OEM BSS - I have flat multi-spokes on at the moment, same as these, https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-bbs-wheel-15815.html and they just about fit with 288s, depending on the car you might need to shave the callipers slightly. The VR6 Golf basket weave BBS, similar to the G60 ones, that were standard on US spec Corrados and an option in Europe don't fit with the larger brakes - I haven't checked yet to see what could be done about it apart from a trial fitting. Pity, as they look nice. You must be looking to upgrade the brakes soon though - with those 16" Speedlines you could go for any number of twin or four pot setups, or 312s. I guess the issue is when you want to but the standard wheels back on. The other thing to remember (and often forgotten) with 288s is that the space saver won't fit, so you either need to carry a full size spare or move one of the rear wheels to the front if you get a blow-out or puncture on either of the fronts.

Very nice - you'll make us all jealous. Forum rules state that you must put a price beside each item in order to further mankind's knowledge, and a total, which is likely more than the car 😉 😅 In fairness, a lot of effort and attention to details and time spent tracking down all these items - it will definitely be a one of a kind.

It sounds more like your front callipers are seizing - from what I remember the proportioning valve just regulates pressure to the two rear callipers according to the position of the rear axle beam under load, so has not effect on the fronts. Maybe try checking to see if the pistons move freely, and bleeding the fronts, checking to see that there are no leaks and that the sliders move freely. Sometimes the pads get stuck to the calliper when the pistons seize up.

You should be able to post pictures here - if it's an item for sale please post a price - presuming they are for an early car. Would also strongly suggest that you don't post your email address or other contact details on the forum - there is private messaging functionality for that.

That's an ebay saved search gone wrong! They could come in handy for standing in the ditch. waiting for the AA to arrive....

just an in joke - if you search the eBay ended items you'll see one that went recently for $800 or so (VDO gauges, not VSR of course) - there is a project to 3D print the frame, and as the actual insides are the same, to mount the LHD ones in a RHD dash. I think most, if not all SLCs were fitted with them, so the left sided version is probably more plentiful.

Show off! They come up about once or twice a year at most - some change hands off-net by word of mouth. Also worth keeping an eye on VW Vortex and VR6OC as quite a few of these are running on Mk3 VR6s. Since everything should now be measured by the market value of RHD late VDO gauges, expect to pay 2-3 VDOs for one! I thought we needed a new unit of measurement. 😉

Looks like there was another successful group buy in the States in 2019 for the 16": https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/feeler-group-buy-16-speedline-corse-corrado-speedlines.8783130/page-4 and it was a small run, only 30 wheels or so. The suggestion is that they seem to be able to run these off existing 2110 tooling and then machine the bore and PCD etc. for ET35. Hmm - I wonder would it be worth gauging interest as these would be the ideal wheels for many who are looking for an OEM+ solution?

Ah - the now almost legendary VW Vortex 16" Speedline remake! All makes sense now - great idea, "We want 16 inch OEM wheels for our Corrados, let's get the manufacturer to run some off..." Was a year or two before my VR6 ownership began, but if I had know there were some left over I would have definitely had a set. Looks like we might all need to go to 16s soon to be able to find sensible tyres. Well wear.

Are these the Speedline Type 2110 Challenge wheels from their website, or some other variation? They look really well, I'll bet you're chuffed!

When you think about it, the OEM thermostat housings and coolant pipe have all done well over 100k miles and 20+ years, so I think the quality is fine. What they don't like is being removed and put back on, and you need to make sure everything is really clean and smooth on all the faces and use new seals and o-rings.

What can happen with the crack pipe is that the new o-ring seals get nipped or damaged during installation, usually on the water pump/block side, but I see it's on the stat housing from your post - could be worth replacing the seal but it's a lot of hassle. Also sometimes the leaking coolant will make it's way far from where it is actually leaking from. As far as I know UK Corrado 2.9 cars with original ABS never used diagnostics to bleed the pump - it's not possible, and not available as an option in VCDS. This was only for the later OBD2 2.8 cars with a different ABS setup where the pump was integrated into the master cylinder and reservoir - possibly also on LHD Euro and US cars.

I use a Bosch S4 Silver size 004, smaller than what you have but more than enough to start the VR6. I think you'll find a big difference between Halfrauds own far-east brand and an established battery maker such as Bosch or Varta. The covers come in different sizes and materials from VAG, or if you search eBay there's a few on there as well. Nothing like keeping your battery nice and cosy in the winter! Watch out when buying them as most are made to fit with the battery terminal posts closer to the bonnet, not at the back as on the Corrado.

Mad money - I guess because it's a SWB rally build/replica. I wonder is it an actual rally car with race history or a SWB conversion where they do cut and shut from a standard car, or from a coupe and use an Audi 80 windscreen to get the rake right? Used to be a popular conversion.

They are embedded into the door handle metal and break very easily - it would be easier just to fit a set of handles with the micro-switches in them, as I don;t think you would get them out without damaging them. I thought these switches were only for activating total closure for the electric windows and sunroof when the key is turned, and then only on later cars? The central locking will work just on lock position as it uses an actuating rod, so once the battery is connected, both sides and the boot should open or close on the turn of a key. Issues with that could be loss vacuum, or faulty broken wiring. Could be wrong on this though and glad to be corrected - it's been a while since I've had that part of the car apart.

Not sure about the steering column - maybe the clamp is loose or the holding spring gone - you’d need to take the cowling off to have a proper look. Lots of people have swapped for no-adjustable columns. Late fogs are long gone NLA. Your options are second hand, but they are very expensive even for cracked ones, or a couple of companies sell replacement lenses for around 100 each for the glass. These are not always like for like, and it can be a bit tricky removing the old glass cleanly from the housing.

I did it dash in, but would always now advise doing it dash out for the small amount of extra effort required, as there is so much more access for getting the heater box in and out. See, it's so easy to do on a Mk2 - just the dash under trays and centre console have to come out - oh, yeah, they actually have a console that can be removed!

Not available from VW, any more but a number of sellers on eBay have 3D printed them - do a search with the part number and they should pop up, otherwise I know some on here have bought some recently and should be along to let you know.

Ah ok, makes sense now - an early version of the multi function steering wheel with audio controls...

Possible - but with the diff locks engaged the ABS is turned off anyway - do they get much snow in Cyprus?

Anyone know what that weird switch/light thing is between the electric window switches, in the panel below the diff lock control? Frost/temperature warning? I've never seen one before and there wasn't one on my 87 CQ, although everything else looks familiar and original.

Mmm - cracking car, and only 38k miles on it - looks like it came out of a museum! I think those wheels are rare 15" Ronal 4 studs, as the originals were smaller at 14" and didn't fill the arches as well.

"As far as we can tell, there are just 16 VR6 Storms left in the UK and 10 of those are SORN’d. Of the remaining 6 still pootling about on British tarmac, this is the third to pass through our portal" - is this true? I'd be pretty sure that there are more registered than that. Looks like an after-market cruise control unit on the left of the steering wheel cowling as well?This car is absolutely pristine, but a real shame to see it handed on from Billy to Jack purely to make a few hundred extra quid rather than in the hands of a true enthusiast, as Chris G. really was.

^ this be true - no matter how often you bleed and what you replace, this era of cars will still fell a bit softer to brake, with some travel, compared to newer models. It will kick in nicely once you put the foot down. This is partly the age of the technology, and also design - there is a limitation on how leverage is exerted at the pedal/mc/servo, and this is a physical fact that can't be changed - you'll find most newer cars have much more mechanical advantage here. A few people have tried with the Mk3 system, which is a little better, or even using a Mk4 pedal box and servo, but this is a lot of work. People get disappointed after spending lots of money on new master cylinders, callipers, pads and discs and a full bleed because it doesn't break like Mk5 Golf, but it never will, and you tend to get used to it. For what it's worth, two things that are often overlooked are weeping seals on the master, and an ageing servo and piping that don't maintain proper vacuum.