seanl82

Welcome aboard! Get some pics up and show her off!

The plastic used in 3D printing is more brittle though iirc, which could possibly pose a problem. I'm in no way trying to put people off of this by the way guys, Jim did a fantastic job making a work round for this on the binnacle covers!

I would have thought the grille badge would be harder to do due to the retaining clips.......... The script badge is just a couple of pins in comparison. Good to know for future reference though! How about door pin surrounds too Jim! I need one, but I've been outbid on the single one on ebay that is slightly damaged. Its at £8 odd + postage now, and I refuse to pay that for a single tiny plastic disc thats broken!

Collecting Friday. I'll get it on the ramps and give it a good going over. Sills weren't picked up on MOT, but they look pretty ropey to me. Intention is to swap some good bits for my not so good bit - although I'm struggling to find much now!. If theres no major welding required, I'll do whats needed to get it through an MOT with a clean bill of health, then flog it on for a few hundred quid profit hopefully. It doesn't stand me at much, and it failed its last MOT on: Exhaust centre box leaking excessively (will check it out on the ramp Ball Joints (pair of wishbones with bushes and ball joints provided) Number plates (currently non-legal pressed) Sidelight bulb Cosmetically and to make it presentable: Roof aerial - base it there but no antenna (£5 from ebay) O/S front wing due to rust, N/S too possibly Dash centre console - Mine is a little broken but presentable, so I'll put it into this and get a good one for mine. In addition, the car wont move unless put into 1st gear from the engine bay, as the shift mech has snapped off at the pivot point where the PO tried to remove a crappy gear knob. I have a spare which I've just got back from Dave16v with the short shift mod done, and I tried to fit it yesterday. Managed to almost get it all done, before realising the ball joint bit that attaches to the shift cable has disintegrated. Luckily with the spare one I got the whole mech, cables, and engine bay bracket. I'll put the short shift in mine, and put mine in this. The fuel hoses in the bay look quite poor too, so I'll replace them, and give the upper inlet manifold a lick of VHT aluminium, and replace a couple of corroded nuts and bolts with ones I have laying around. A quick engine bay and exterior detail and that'll be it I think. As far as the bodywork goes, apart from a little rust around the front arches, its very straight and actually much better than mine was when I got it! Interior is black cloth, but seems in very good order and the bolsters are rip free and show only slight wear. She sports a set of Corrado script door sill trims which I'll have for mine, but the paint has worn along the edge of the sill so a rattle can of Aqua blue, and jobs a goodun! I'll get some pics up once I've seen whats what. :thumbleft:

I saw one that had apparently been standing for 10 years, yet had 170k! :shrug: What you said is what I'd expect of a barn find, with some bird she ite on the bodywork maybe. Quite a few chancers on ebay with a warped perspective a what a barn find actually is...............

The only bigger brake upgrade using VAG parts available are 288mm from mk3 or 4 Golf and skoda fabia that fits under standard 15" wheels Use the search for best options, but bigger wheels are needed for anything more

Very nice indeed, and as close as the original shape as they come I believe. :thumbleft:

Congrats, see, patience is the key! :thumbleft:

I'll have the gear knob and boot lock please. Can you pm price with postage and I'll get it across this evening. Thanks!

Good shout Do. :thumbleft: Looking at the sump in that second pic, is that metal parts I can see? Hard to make out on the tablet, but if so, I'd certainly say it's shagged!

Yeah its wax, I managed to get it off of the chassis legs with heat, although like you I couldn't get the odd small bit off of the turrets which seemed much harder and showing cracking, and was sort of bonded to the paint. I managed to get most off with a heat gun and some with a petrol soaked rag. Obviously wash it off properly afterward!

You'll need to source a second hand one. Not sure if they're the same for all 4 stud setups, but I'm sure someone will know and its best to put an ad in the wanted section on here, or scour for breakers. To ensure it doesn't happen again within a few years, get it blasted and powdercoated before fitting.

As above for plugs. These fancy you can't bend it 4 element iridium tipped plugs are pricey, and apparently cause rough running.

Ebay metal ones are fine. The OE ones are plastic and flex, so its a pita to remove the leads. Having spoken to Opie about the Synta Silver, its old tech so probably not the best for a high capacity higher mileage engine. You pay for quality oil though and the Fuchs Titan Pro Race 10w 50 recommended definitely quietened my engine down, but is pretty pricey. That said, buy 5l get 1l free is enough for an oil change with none left over though, but not a huge amount more that 2 5l tubs of Synta Silver. Gearbox oil should be fine. Again I bought Redline MT90 which most on here recommend from Opie. I didn't notice any difference in gear changes at all though.

Ah I see, clears that up for me cheers Sean. :thumbleft:

Aren't the calipers and carriers exactly the same as the 288 setup but require a spacer, and obviously just bigger disks and pads?

:thumbleft: Very interested in a spot on the stand so I'll keep my eyes peeled.

Looking at the details there are already a few registered, but theres nothing on the CCGB events calender or list Jim. Is it closed now?

Ooh, restoration show, I was hoping to get to a few shows early next year. I'll look at the details of it all now. :thumbleft:

Can you not build a sort of shelf that's hinged at the back (rear seat side) with some flexi pipes to the boot floor, so you can lift it slightly giving you access to the spare?

Glad to hear it didn't escalate and that you and your daughter are ok mate. I have a spare one but tbh, these linked are pretty cheap and others have said they're good units. Better off getting a new one than a used one that may need changing a few months down the line for that price. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321157973200?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Christ on a bike! Having a little clear out is he! :eek:

Genuine mk2 G60s are very hard to come by now and command a very high price. If your after classic originality then small bumpers seem to be the most desirable. Mk2s as a whole have risen in price in recent years for good original examples, due do the fact that so many now have either succumbed to rust, or have had not so good 20vt or vr6 conversations. Decent unmolested examples are getting thin on the ground but the 16v is the most desirable over the 8v, and still a hoot to drive. Most valvers I've seen have been oak green if I'm honest, so not sure if the colour was limited to numbers or year.

I'm not a fan of aftermarket steering wheels personally. Ok I'd think about it if it was originally fitted with some sort of monstrosity like they were in the States, but I don't find the late ones here offensive in the slightest. :shrug:

Unfortunately not no.