seanl82

As above, sorry there's always one screw I forget! Yes the glass is the same throughout years. Not 100% if manual window glass is the same (I imagine it is), but there are very few with manual windows anyway.

Easy job. Remove the door card, drop the window down a bit to access the two clamps holding the glass to the mechanism, undo the two clamps bolts & lift the glass out! Door card removal will take the longest, but overall it shouldn't take longer than 15 minutes. To take the door car off, remove the visible screws front and rear, prise off the grab handle cover and remove the two large screws holding the grab handle. There is another small screw for the card behind it as well. Remove the door pin, door release surround by sliding it forward (or back, can't remember), and the top inner scraper trim. Carefully remove the door card lifting it over the pin at the back, and disconnect the window switch plug. Job done.

It's difficult doing it all on your Tod like me. Thanks for the encouragement and understanding, can always count on you mate. 😉😆

Sorry I got it wrong, 40.17 not 19. I'll go with that then, as I didn't quite get to 130nm first time round as it just seemed too tight by feel and I was afraid I'd rip the thread to pieces. Thanks Cressa. 👍

One step forward, two steps back. After dropping the subframe again to fit copper crush washers to the PAS pipes to rack, it turns out there shouldn't be any! I'm positive I removed a pair from there, but they wouldn't fit on one of the pipes. Checked the originals I was sure I took off, and sure enough they don't fit either. Checked ETKA & the Bentley and it only shows the little green O-rings. No idea where they've come from then! The pump banjo ones have been replaced and I have 3 left, so must have got confused and they came in a pack of 5! Anyway, fitted the subframe again, torqued it all back up to what I think are the correct tension (other thread), and put the engine mount bolts back in. Put the hubs on loosely and thought I was making progress ready to start making up brake lines tomorrow as all the bits arrived yesterday. Last thing left to do on that was reconnect the steering column to the rack. Noooo! It just won't go on. I'm gonna need to drop the subframe again a bit to get it on properly. Pissed off is an understatement. The flipping boot makes life twice as difficult but there's just not enough flex to get the splines in straight. I'll then have the task of getting the pinch bolt in which I know is going to be fun! My neck is killing me from tensing up whilst trying to get it all together too, so I'm a bit fed up! 🤬 I was planning to take some photos today too. 🤔

Chaps, I've gone to put my subframe back on today, and double checked the bentley for torque settings and it shows conflicting info. On page 40.2 it says 130 & 80Nm, but on page 40.19 it says 70 + 1/4 turn & 65Nm. The latter refers to vehicles with VR6 engine, but surely you'd think they would be higher and only marginally wouldn't you? Anyone shed any light and confirm what the correct spec should be please?

Wow, man likes his wheels! Not a huge fan of the S3 alloys if I'm honest, but the RS! 👌

Wow, the serial hoarder letting something go, that must have been difficult for you Martin! 🤭😆

Nothing much specific for the 8v. Just check the usual for cam belt, oil leaks - especially the breather (little black box on top of engine) pipework as the do soften and split over time, which can lead to a bit of a mess in the engine bay and oil smell in the cabin. My first engine actually died after oil cooler failure (bought a replacement including all ancillaries for £80 delivered!) so check oil and coolant for cross contamination. That's about it really.

Looks a decent enough and unmodified example from the pics and fairly priced. Mileage is probably about average I'd say, and the 8v engines are very common (more or less the same as the MK3 Golf GTI) so should be a decent amount of spare parts and cheap to replace anything that needs doing. I had a Golf with the 8v lump, and sure it would never set the world alight but they're really good all rounders in my opinion. It depends how you want to use the car and what your expectations are with regard to performance. If it's close to you I'd say it's at least worth a look. As with anything this age, check for rust at the sills, fuel filler neck and around the windscreen. Check all electrics work, especially sunroof and heater dials. A lot of parts are obsolete including parts for those, so it'll be very difficult to fix. Other than that, buy on condition as mentioned, the engine and running gear are relatively cheap to sort compared to bodywork. Best of luck. 👍

Keep the handle pulled back by using the seatbelt looped around it, then press down on the side that's stuck. 😉

Frustration opitimised. Finished painting the underside this morning, on the upward curve now with beginning to put everything back together. Still awaiting my brake lines, so decided to start at the front and get the subframe back on this afternoon. Got it up, did the bolts up hand tight but couldn't get one of the bloody PAS pipes unions on so had to drop the subframe again and put them both in. Raised it again and torqued up the bolts, put in the engine mount bolts and removed the engine support. Feeling like I'd accomplished something and that'll do for today. Tidying away the tools and what do I see on the work bench, PAS pipe crush washers! 🤬😫

The vid puts it into perspective quite well. Weighing up options (very rough estimate on cost), to fix including paint -£2000. Break the Corrado for parts +£1000 Buying another Corrado for £3000, possible for a 16v but even then for that price, it'll likely not be far behind yours currently. Buying something else for £3000 - probably nothing worthwhile. Fixing yours and knowing it is in great shape structurally, knowing it'll last for many years to come and maintaining or even improving that emotional attachment (cos fixing it up will make you happy once it's done 😉) - priceless! 👍

It's not something anyone wants to say, but the fact it's so bad in the visible areas means its likely to be not far behind in others (underneath the underseal). I think your next step is to attempt to strip back the underseal all the way along the sills, any areas that are split even if just slightly - paying particular attention to jacking points, mounting studs and the areas with visible rust. Grind or peel it all back until you get to clean primed factory metal, as it'll need welding to that point anyway and will make for a much more accurate quote for welding. If you strip the interior, carpets & sound deadening etc, it'll also keep costs down too. The painting is likely to be where you'll be hit hardest financially. It's a hard one as 8v are toward the bottom end for values, so the amount of work required probably doesn't make it financially viable. That said, the emotional attachment you obviously have with it is what will determine the outcome and is something only you can decide. Stripping everything back and out to find the full extent of it, then getting a few quotes should give you a better idea. Have any mates or work colleagues with a Mig? Even local Corrado owners who may be willing to help will keep costs down too. Best of luck with it whatever you decide mate. 👍

The KR cams are pretty good from factory. If you can find a 9A engine, with the KR or ABF cams and a remap you'll achieve 160 bhp fairly comfortably. It's a fairly well trodden path for 9A upgrades, so just do that but in reverse.

I thought that was a Vauxhall Cavalier on the first two pics! 😂

I'd agree the front and gearbox (left) competition mounts would make a noticeable difference, but there isn't a lot of weight placed on the rear right mount so I don't think it would be. I have a fast road front and rear right mount and they're not harsh at all. It's not like suspension so it doesn't affect drivability. I did have a rear left fast road too, but noticed the noise of the gearbox in the cabin which always had me on edge that there was something wrong. I changed back to standard on that one.

Or like that ^

Goldie posted a pic on his members gallery recently which is what I think you're referring to. Other option is to stack them on an appliance dolly (similar to below with cardboard in between each wheel to protect them.

Cheers bud. 👍

This is from a VR6 but should be the same/similar on a G60 I'd imagine

No, where the cable connects to the throttle body and opens/closes the butterfly, there is a damper at the back that stops it snapping shut when the spring closes it. Looks like an umbrella type thing. It's just a little soft close valve like you get on a kitchen drawer if you get my meaning. This often breaks down and doesn't softly close the throttle, so you get symptoms you're describing

Have you checked the throttle body damper? Not sure if the G60 suffers with the same issue but it's common on the VR for the damper to have broken down so not act as a buffer when coming off the gas. That causes idle to drop right down and potentially cut out too.

I've got that set, though they've been in my 'to do' box for more than 2 years now! Lol. Have your gearbox oil been changed recently? I'd start there then work back mate

Nice. Where does the banjo go - there isn't one on the master or slave cylinder is there? There is a goodridge Flexi and hard pipe available through heritage for £71, but wondering if I can remake the hard line in kunifer - just the coiled part may be difficult - with the stainless fittings I've just bought (ordered a couple spare), and just get a custom HEL line made for £26. 🤔