seanl82

Hi, and welcome to the forum! It's a bit quiet here at the moment whilst most people's cars are tucked up for the winter, but we're all still browsing and occasionally posting updates on work etc, so if you have any question, or want to share your journey with your car please feel free to post away. :thumbleft:

How many wheels!?.......

Jamie is selling/has sold his Red VR6 after chopping it in for a C4S http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?84376-Jamie-s-Flash-Red-VR6-Woken-From-Hibernation

I can't remember names, but I seem to recall a fair few have. It seems a natural progression tbh, and I don't think any have regretted it.

Mrinjector has good reviews for cleaning them and you'll get a report with flow rates pre and post cleaning. Aside from standard tools to remove the fuel rail, you should be fine but just be careful not to wriggle them too much or you'll break the plastic part of the tip. Just disconnect the battery and connection to the rail, and the vapour tube to the inlet and you should be fine mate. You can do it in a normal ultrasonic cleaner for jewelery, but you obviously won't know what the pattern and flow are like before and after

I did it out of curiosity a few years back, and was offered £150 for my Corrado!

Just posting on social media full stop would arouse suspicion from me!

It is a lot but you can get excellent results if applied by a good pro. You can add wax on top as a sacrificial layer as well so it'll last longer, but most of them will last a year or so. With yours living outside I'd be on the fence if I'm honest mate. A good machine and protection by a pro, then regular long lasting waxes by yourself may be better value

Nope. They're one piece with the plastic and rubber moulded together

The big brands offer top up type spray bottles Rob. I've used GTechniq on my old Golf and it was great - though I sold it about 4 months later. I've also used Carpro Cquartz and I don't know if it was an issue with application as it kind of misted up, but I wasn't that impressed with the finish and it didn't seem to last that well either. Are you planning to do it yourself or get a pro to apply it Rob?

There is a guide to making your own loom on this site too. Have a search through Google and it should come up.

Once the key gets to position 1 it should energise the relay, which will hold open the current path to the pump. The fact it's only getting voltage at position 2 (when cranking) suggest a wiring issue rather than the switch. Turn the key with your finger on the relay, you should feel it engage if it's working correctly. If so, your issue lies between relay and pump so you've narrowed it down a little bit

Haha, all good thanks. So are you planning a recommission to drive it again, or thinking of moving it on finally?

Still looks great Jamie! Not a bad result really. Do you still have the 997 was it? Edit; Just went back, do you still have the C4S?

The show wasn't much cop. Low budget and poorly edited, but not a bad concept and he seemed genuinely impressed with the Corrado. Hard to beat an Elise if you're after a fun (if impractical) weekend car though. Car looked very tidy and standard with low mileage, but being white with cloth interior I can't see it ever selling for that price.

Tons of options. Mocal Oil cooler, fan upgrade, rad upgrade, lower temp thermostat, removing the cover parts on the grilles that have them, wing vents (Merc Sprinter) etc etc..... You can go nuts if you want, but the cars are now at the point where standard is looked upon as best. As long as your cooling system is working correctly with water level sitting around 90, and oil around 100-115 and the fans coming on in stages at the correct temp then there shouldn't be any problems.

Unfortunately not. 5 Stud wide track only.

Boxster......

Sales of 3 door models have obviously got to a stage where its no longer financially viable for VW to develop and produce it. That will be pretty much the only reason industry will drop it. Its either that, or they're doing it to save money in the medium to long term.

I've seen this, in fact I had a small area on mine before it was cut out and welded new in. The seal has a metal tab that links it where it joins at the bottom. The water tends to collect at the seal join, and rots out the un-prepared metal tab and slowly works it's way to the lip where the seal sits. Mine wasn't particularly bad, a small finger nail sized bit of rust was there and hadn't gone all the way through, but I'm sure I could well happen to other cars with worse results.

I'm pretty sure walnut shells are used for areas where minimal agression is required. Sand or glass media will be fine on the rear beam as it's such a robust item so there is no need to be careful.

Look great! Top ones a bit further gone but assume it's to retain the colouring on the plaque? I think you can Matt clear coat it, though may be worth speaking to a good body shop to see what they recommend

Ah Martin the parts hoarder and Michael the rare part custodian. Opportunists the pair of you!! :lol: :thumbleft:

I'm at that stage. I've barely touched the car in about 18 months, and if it weren't for the fact that it's currently not even a roller, I may have considered it more. That said, if it was drivable I might have actually used it....... :scratch:

Anna Works for Heritage, so yeah - you'll be buying direct from them!