seanl82

I can't see the links so apologies if its been covered, but the 288mm calipers will have a triangular cut out at the top. The 280mm have a rectangular cut out, of sorts. Thats the best way to identify between the two.

I can't see the ebay link at work, but going by the pic in the OP, the original leather is a kind of kit like that. The lower bolsters are seperate to the base, and the back is seperate also. Its actually pretty straightforward to strip them down, they are held in place by metal hanger type rods that slot through folded over leather, then held to the base etc by sharp teeth. The seat sides and parts of the door cards are actually vinyl. Each manufacturer has a different grain of vinyl they use too so unless you get the whole kit, it won't match. Depends how much of an OE freak you are I suppose, but if you're going aftermarket with these, I doubt the leather grain would be a great match. Remember all hides will be slightly different, so unless you get a complete kit from the same hide, chances are it'll be noticeable if pointed out.

Leave it in your basket for 24 hours, they both give you a discount code for 5% off if not used in conjunction with other discounts. CP4L usually have £5 off for every £50 spent though.

Even the finish on the underside is astounding. Must have been an epic job getting rid of that wax! Amazing job, I really enjoy these sort of detailed threads with all the pics in. Gives me motivation to see what I can achieve.......... although doubtful I'd be anywhere close to this! :thumbleft:

If you can get a set of cracked fogs for a reasonable price as good condition ones are crazy money, google Karmannski. He's a Polish guy on here and offers reproduction glass for them, as well as some other repro stuff for obsolete parts.

Its the same problem a few of us have had. It generally manifests itself when water temp is up, and it causes the low level warning to go off all the bloody time. I have to constantly keep an eye on water and oil temps to reassure myself nothing is wrong.

Obsolete from source now, and many of the final ones were defective (ask me, I know). The original ones will be pretty damn grubby by now if you go second hand. I do know what you mean though, I've kept my new one on even though it gives me a slight worry every now and again just because its original and looks nice.

Ha, so often the cause of non starting issues! Glad you got it sorted in the end, although I'm sure quite frustrating after spending on all those other things.

No worries Ray. Rears are an absolute doddle, but you may need a windy gun or a some sort of home made tool to get the top nuts off of the front, as if they're corroded they won't come off without a real fight.

Really is a great car Daren, and as mentioned looking very familiar - just a slightly different shade of black!

Welcome back! Get some pics up when you can. The engine is essentially the same, so a Mk3 Golf GTI 8v induction kit will fit if you're struggling to find one. In all honesty, there probably aren't many second hand ones advertised for Corrados out there. Rough running on this engine are generally down to ISV or MAF sensor. Give the ISV a clean with carb cleaner, and the MAF a squirt with electrical contact cleaner before worrying too much about forking out for replacements. Where are you based? Someone may be close by with VCDS so could read any fault codes for you to save the hassle. :thumbleft:

Front from the dealer but rear are obsolete. Go Lemforder for the rears mate, they're what the dealership use when items are NLA I'm led to believe. Those are what I used anyway.

Ah bugger too late. I'll take second dibs on em or if they're wrong fitment.

I'll take them please, PM me details for payment!

Yes they are definitely a straight swap. :thumbleft:

Uses 2 Speed nuts to secure it.

I gave the car a going over with some new products yesterday. First up was Bilt Hamber auto wash. Great product! Gave a nice slick easy wash, and a 5ml drop provided tons of suds that lasted in the bucket the whole wash. Very impressed with this, and pretty sure it'll now be my go to shampoo. I'd applied Carpro Cquartz about a month or so ago, and although its obviously doing its job as the beading is still as good as when I first applied it, the finish was very glassy being a synthetic product. I prefer the wet/deep glossy look you get from a good wax. Although I won't pay the fortune some do for "show" waxes, my old favourite was Collinite 476s as it gives a great finish, and lasts ages too. I tried another Bilt Hamber Product, Double Speed Wax. Again I can't help but be impressed with Bilt Hamber, I've not tried anything of theirs I've not been very impressed with! I'll let the pics do the talking on this. Finally, at the same time of applying the Cquartz, I applied Carpro Dlux. I used Gtechniq C4 a few years ago and thought it was pretty good, so the reason I used the Dlux was it was affectively the same thing only a bit cheaper. Whilst its worked really well on the rubber window surrounds, the roof trim, door handles, and in particular the splitter faded very quickly indeed. Again its supposed to be a semi permanent product, but I certainly won't be using it again, even though I still have about 2/3 of the bottle left. I read reviews on Detailing world about something called Solution Finish, so thought I'd give it a go. Its like a dye so my fingers are still showing signs of black colour despite being washed about 20 times since! Must say the matt finish it provides looks excellent at the moment, and apparently it'll last a good few months too. Fingers crossed it does as this may well become my go to product for trim too. Only time will tell though. Anyway, Pics!

I've got a shed, a porch, 2 bin cupboards and 2 garden storage boxes. Can't wait to get a proper garage!

Haha, thats definitely hoarding! Can you fit a car in your double garage with those wheels! (Don't know if you have a double garage, it just sounds better for affect!)

Clutch slave cylinder, clean injectors and replace seals, crank seal, GB input shaft seal and release bearing, clean, strip and paint the block and gearbox, both inlet gaskets, throttle body gasket, dipstick guide tube seal, oil cooler and seals, oil filter housing seal....... the list can go on and on. I replaced all these including those Harrier suggested, but aside from replacing one chain guide and the tensioner bolt, I didn't do the rest as they had been done shortly before I bought the car and were in near perfect condition. I reckon with all I've mentioned and a full chain set, you're looking at close to a grand.

The Lusty is 40 odd years old tbf, although it's been out of service for a few years already and the Queen Elizabeth isn't due to come into service for more than a year yet. No carriers at all throughout that time. It's the nice new state of the art type 45 destroyers in the background you want to be ashamed about. Barely able to go to sea due to constant propulsion defects, so 2 of them tied up for the foreseeable future as the MOD doesn't have the manpower OR budget to send them to sea.

No not my ship, it's not really anyone's anymore. It's the Illustrious, and it's being towed to Turkey to be cut up for scrap metal soon.

A couple of pics cos I'm bored and at work.

^^^^ |||| What he said! Honestly don't worry, we're not like your common "club" members where you need a show winner to be "accepted". Mine was a complete mess when I went to Castle Combe a few years ago, and no one batted an eyelid. Its not about the car, its about the community which certainly none outside of VW, and very few inside have. :thumbleft:

Mine is 9.8 miles, the first 2.5 miles there are 6 sets of lights which don't help, especially when warming up, and the last miles is sat in traffic stop starting. The rest is motorway and I struggle to see 28mpg even when very light footed. Down as low as 22mpg if I'm a little late setting off!