Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/27/2022 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Sent you the email they sent me. You’ll note the guys name. He’s the one you want to deal with.
  2. 1 point
    yes i have nice yellow Billet 4s on my VR6 i absolutely love them, far superior to OE brakes & awesome performance i chose HiSpec as they were the only 4 pots i could get which would fit under the 15" speedlines as far as i know there are several reputable workshops that recommend HiSpecs for corrado's - pretty sure ive seen John Mitchell Racing fitting them to customers cars you can give them you full wheel spec & they will confirm if you can run 312's or tell you the max disc size for your setup i found them to be very helpful but i would say to not use their spacers if you need them as the cheap ones they did me were not hubcentric
  3. 1 point
    I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....
  4. 1 point
    I’m sure Chris will reveal his method, but when I did this on my car, I used a wallpaper steamer with a nozzle attachment to soften the wax, and then wiped off with a cloth. I then used a degreaser and a cloth to remove the remainder. You can keep going with panel wipe if necessary, but I was happy to just reapply some fresh clear wax.
  5. 1 point
    Hi - a late 95 car should already have a VDO pump in it, as the Pierburg was only used for about 18 months for the early VRs. Your fuel gauge sender and float should just swap straight over on to a new VDO pump or swirl pot.
  6. 1 point
    Broke up for Christmas last Thursday so got some time on my hands. The Corrado assumed the winter prep position again today!
  7. 1 point
    Thanks, I got a cutting of a bumper and made a small patch to block the hole, i plastic welded it with a soldering iron from the back then filled the bumper. It was then re-sprayed. There are some pictures on page 3 👍
  8. 1 point
    Thanks Geri a great friend of mine on here - always supported my builds with positive comments. I will be hanging about for sure mate - sure will drop down what I get - its an open book right now. Cars that I enjoy looking at shows. Merc 190 e cosy Sl r129 sl60 pre merger amg sl r107 e46 m3 cab saab carlsson 900 turbo ( love these ) very rare car . 911 perhaps but i tend to sell them after a year in fear the engine pops - bloody chocolate cylinders. Might even have a look at a Jap car for the first time- maybe even an alpha . Audi s2 coupe Audo coupe 5 cylinder red 177 bhp. Golf rallye blue Mk7 club sport S. Will have to be a finished project though im done with the 2 years process and costs of a project - the cars and new owners are the winners- I want to be that new winner owner now ha - get in enjoy and then sell on for the same price a few years later.
  9. 1 point
    Thanks for all your kind words. Yes totally agree one would be crazy to think if you nut and bolt you will get your money back- I expect if these two corrado to out live many of us on here now if garaged and taken care of- all the salt and daily driving is that kills them- in fact renovation can be pulling back the clock of 25 years use . Im 100 percent moving onto buying a car restored or in low mileage - summer salt free car- just makes easier ownership and to come out of them- I just like the buzz of trying new cars so need to buy my cars renovation free in the future- easy to sell on and use straight away and not be double figures out of of pocket if i sell. I might well get a 16v runabout in a couple of years and enjoy if for its worts and have a comprehensive brake down cover. I will still be about though guys dont worry.
  10. 1 point
    Thanks to all of you for the help, really appreciate it. So.... I felt like to go to the bottom of this I had to do something I promised myself not to do again after replacing the heater matrix... I only had to remove a few trims though this time and got a access to it. Replaced it with the old one and got all 4 speeds working again! So that new one must be defective I guess. Case closed, up to the next ha haa. Cheers
  11. 1 point
    New forum title 🙂 Looks great from here. First Corrado I had was a 2.0 16v in white. Freshly polished in fading light makes all those lines/curves really pop. I said I wouldn’t have another white car, but I’d have that in a breath 👍🏻.
  12. 1 point
    . I need to stop chasing perfection and just enjoy it for what it is. That right there is what it’s all about. My wife said this with a smirk 11 years ago “ it’ll never be finished “ but I don’t care as long as I can use and enjoy it most of the time. There is always something I’ve got to look at but it doesn’t have to be perfect or I’ll be too frightened of anything happening to it, to use it.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    I wouldn’t buy a recently restored car, the recent price increases make a bondo and newspaper restoration a financial win for a seller, then 12 months down the line it has more blisters than a herpes convention. If you can find a car with online history from a good owner cashing out (rather than cashing in) that’s where I suggest you put your money.
  15. 1 point
    That is shame but at least it sounds like you'll get closure on that car. Pleased to see you're still going to get one and I will keep an eye I've been through pain of resto and bodywork etc and would recommend avoiding all that hassle and buying a good one straight off. Im not normally someone to worry about mileage (155k on mine) but concede in the UK market people would sooner by a ropey 100k car over a well sorted to 155k, so if I were doing it again I'd be aiming for sub 120k miles, great body and make sure it had leather (cost me a £grand to make that happen which on top of bodywork and engine work makes for an expensive game and a car that will never be worth its cost..). The engine can be sorted at say Stealth racing but the rest of the mechanicals (apart from ABS) is boggo mk3 golf so anyone can do it. All the best and keep us posted on outcomes of the old car. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    He still has the paper work for it he may be will to see if he can put the plate on retention and sell the plate I could ask him Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    We will post up what we find. BlackBerry it is 👌
  18. 1 point
    Sad ending, but time for a new relationship and get yourself another
  19. 1 point
    👍🏻. Without this mantra, the 8v would be scattered across the four corners of the kingdom by now. That said, I do feel like I’ve taken this theory to beyond any logical boundary with the VR. Injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning soon. And then other jobs. If I was hung up about driving it, I’d have thrown the towel in years ago. Great thing to look at, be it in dis-repair or gleaming in the sun.
  20. 1 point
    I thought that might be yours that went up this weekend. It’s easier said than done, but if mines sending me over the edge I leave it alone for a few weeks to build up enthusiasm and it’s always better to step back sometimes when you are chasing issues. When you come back to it you might look at the problem from a different angle or think of something you’ve missed which generally works out for me. Good luck either way
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Mate, that VSR is still super gorgeous. I think I paid 1300 for my Schrick 3 years ago which still needed a full refurb and parts on top of that cost. They aren't cheap, but are quite an easy bolt on modification
  23. 1 point
    VSR on the left and shrick on the right - I sold a shrick last year and it fetched 1500 and sold behind closed doors - vsr can expect to pay over double then a schrick but rarely come up for sale . Schrick come up at least a few times a year - vsr probs looking at 1 every few years . Last shrick I saw sell was a breaker found one on a sharan vr6 . As mentioned above fb is your best bet - most important thing is to make sure the butterfly flap screws are secure or they could drop off and chew your engine .
  24. 1 point
    No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!
  25. 1 point
    Thanks got mine today best quality loom available and a good price.
  26. 1 point
    Parked my car at the local farm shop earlier then stood drooling over a 997 GT3 a few spaces down before I nipped in the shop. When I come out there’s a guy stood looking at the Corrado, “Love the car” he says, goes on to tell me he wanted one in the day but never had one etc etc. I get in to leave and he gets in his GT3, wish I’d realised, he might have done a straight swap!!!
  27. 1 point
    TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.
  28. 1 point
    Hi, I was impressed with some refurbishment work I had done on the alternator, starter and PAS pump and thought I'd share the results. I didn't expect them to turn out so well so hope you enjoy the before and after shots as much as me. The chap puts on the oem stickers as well - nice touch. Bury Farm Autoparts in Bedfordshire did the work for £300 for all 3 units. He said he sources original compenents from all over Europe. They are actually a breakers yard with this business on the side. Real nice chap doing the work too.
  29. 1 point
    What I normally do is cut off the original metal crimp and remove old rubber hose, then slip a brass fuel ferrule inside the rigid nylon hose which will prevent it crushing when you place your new rubber hose over the rigid hose then crimped with a stainless crimp or similar, this way ensures maximum fuel flow through the joint.
  30. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies guys, It seems like there's a great deal of trust in Stealth Racing, but they are quite far away from me and it would cost a fair amount just to trailer it up there for a second opinion. As trust in the garage seems to play a big part in people's recommendations, I figure I'll let you guys know that it's at JMR racing. I've used JMR before for suspension work (back in 2007) and I believe that John knows his stuff, but I get the impression that he's a bit of a perfectionist and always starts off by recommending the premium option. I'm a perfectionist as well, but I'm not sure if I can justify the perfectionist price tag 😀 It seems like maybe a top-end rebuild rather than a full rebuild is the way to go,
  31. 1 point
    Welcome Jensen! I have just returned onto the forum and also looking forward to some shows and cruises this year with likeminded members based around the East Midlands! Finally finished my restoration late last year! Late 95 conversion also in black 😉
  32. 1 point
    Hey guys and gals, just want to say thanks to everyone who offered support on my project. It’s been a couple of years in the making, but finally completed everything last year! Literally everything has been replaced! Full respray, rebuilt 20vt, Ko3s turbo, stage 2, wiring loom by Dubnutz, all new belts, new cambelt, auxiliary, water pump, alternator, tensioner, battery, Brembo brakes (+G60 calipers), discs, pads, wheel bearings, abs pump, all wheel sensors, leather seats, new headlining, all sensors, knock, water, oil, air, aem AFR, new intercooler and pipework, hybrid shallow sump + new oil return pipe, full stainless power flow exhaust with track-slag down pipe, all fluids changed, new wheels, tyres, new windscreen and the list goes on!… really looking forward to catching up with likeminded enthusiasts this year and any corrado owners up for meeting up in the East Midlands for a convoy and a cruise feel free to link me up! cheers, Luke
  33. 1 point
    If you have the K brace you will have to drill though mate . The trimport looks bolt on bolt off . Here it is anyway. https://www.bafmotorsport.co.uk/products/volkswagen-golf-mk2-k-brace?variant=38007283056793&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-27&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZjAbYUnFPLhMC0SmwT_08eJK1ib2D-MiDne2-yM2Ps38PuBa2dXty8aAuriEALw_wcB This video is how they mount fittings etc.
  34. 1 point
    I made mine “quick release” so much easier to check the fluids
  35. 1 point
    It’s great to see that they chose the best colour 😎 I’m bias !
  36. 1 point
    Brilliant, I can’t wait to see this. Looks like weather behaved as well 🙂.
  37. 1 point
    good find m8 fastest owned - probably my modified VR but i think my modified & half stripped R53 supercharged mini would give it a run for its money. they both produce noise induced grins time after time! fastest ive been in - a few contenders; the nissan GTR i drove was crazy but then my old boss took me out in his modded porsche GT3, which covered ground so quickly it was incredible most interesting is a tough one - i still remember a ride in a 308 ferrari when i was about 10, had some great times in my uncles VW camper van but id go with my dads porsche 911 3.0 SC targa
  38. 1 point
    I don’t know the proper part number I’m afraid but couldn’t you use a speed nut or captive nut like below. https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/300330970?type=shopping&msclkid=d7e8d2334ec315c86d72b013b925bfc7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - Brands&utm_term=4579809529099503&utm_content=Shopping - Miscellaneous Engine Parts-1 - OE-Quality https://www.bing.com/search?q=captive+nut&form=APIPH1&PC=APPL
  39. 1 point
    Nice. Just as others have said, easy to live with, easy to work on (all that space in the engine bay is a blessing at times), but be cautious with parts (lights especially) as parts are getting hard. Fun to drive and rarer (by some way) than a Storm. What’s not to like 🙂. I had Estorils on my first Corrado. They had diamond cut faces ( they were an option at the time) and looked great. Having run mine everyday for ten years, I’d recommend changing the wiper arms/blades to aero type. As the standards are hopeless. Lupo GTI or Audi TT is the way to go. You may also benefit from an upgraded headlight loom as well. There’s loads of replacement/upgraded parts available. Lastly, stick the MPG setting on the clocks and see what you can get up to on a long drive. 47.7mpg before you ask 😎.
  40. 1 point
    The current wheels suit the car imo
  41. 1 point
    I’ve got to say that your reply was pure quality. It’s still tickling me now
  42. 1 point
    I have a bodywork guy coming to take a look at the car tomorrow. Once I have a price back then I will way up the odds of fixing up the car vs staying married!
  43. 1 point
    I wouldn’t advise looking at wiring diagrams you don’t understand just before you go to bed. But I’ve woken up understanding what you were trying to do. Ignore my last post it’s completely wrong. You through me off the scent a bit with the thermo fuse positive. He’s using the switches as ground so where you show a positive in your drawing on thermo fuse should be ground/negative. He’s doing it completely opposite to me. so using his drawing you screenshot, for the aux pump signals you’ll have to use pin 87 off of the 4 pin relays because of the constant ignition live you are using on the aux pump relay trigger, it’s the same but different.
  44. 1 point
    Hi , My mate has a well sorted Alpine White VR in Leicester for sale- has a very nice black leather interior to - stealth looked after the car for him and has many new parts. Send me a pm and I can pass on you his details if your interested .
  45. 1 point
    Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.
  46. 1 point
    Thread resurrection - where can I get one of these Kurzy looms? Will iit work on a mk2 and mk3 as well?
  47. 1 point
    Thank you. I will be putting her on Pistonheads and a few other places but thought I'd give you guys here first opportunity. I know a fellow forum member would really look after her 😉
  48. 1 point
    Moody - there are a few options available. I would say it's better to upgrade than try and find a working Corrado roof. My experiences to date - I bought a working corrado mechanism from a chap with the initals BR that was sold as working for £200. It broke on the second use. I wouldn't say it was the sellers fault but it's a 25+ year old bit of kit and certainly not worth £200. Don't do what I did - false economy. I then fitted a mk3 mecahansim with a Passat B4 moonroof. That combo works well - you can get the mech for about £45 (I use Leo GS the mk3 parts breaker on facebook - he is a great bloke and a moderator on a lot of groups). The passat moonroof can be picked up for around £50. I would sell mine if anyone wants it, it needs a new seal though. I wasn't a fan of the moonroof for my car. I prefered the stock tin panel. I got lucky and Chris F supplied me a bag of sunroof bits for a reasonable sum so I've got 3 corrado mechs built (2 x in car). I can't sell any of these though as I have 2 corrado's and need to keep it for spares. This is the best route to go - buy a broken mech and try and source a bag of bits (the bag of bits only cost me £50). I've seen somewhere someone has adapted the mk3 mech to work with the corrado inner panel. This is probably the best solution as the corrado mech is weak vs mk3. Mk3 mech out of the box will not auto slide the inner panel. I haven't looked into this with any detail yet.
  49. 1 point
    Well after 21years my original has been sold. I had been contemplating for some time now so a chat with my brother resulted in a trip to Shrewsbury and a rendezvous so he could take it back North. We were open to sensible offers, fundamentally it was more about finding the right individual who would continue to look after her. We think that has been achieved. So she is now in Cambridgeshire.
  50. 1 point
    So what has happened so far under my ownership. Well later that year August 2012 to be exact I met up with OSV and in exchange for some wonga I was given 263 cams. In Jan 2013 Meld went to DG and Graham set about future proofing her..... The timing chains, guides, tensioners, clutch, water housing, coil pack, lambda probe, ignition leads and spark plugs were replaced along with the cams getting fitted and a remap. A rattle in dash was done, front bumper bonnet and wings were resprayed and front and rear arp strut braces were added. I also bought a brand new 90mm lip spoiler from Graham (currently in garage. Got the car back in August as I'd told Graham I wasn't in a hurry to get it back. A year later Graham had her back for a service and a bit more fettling due to a loss of power - diagnostics fault finding and surgery commenced; the problem a blocked air filter and a cam position magnet failure. While there he also fitted a Kenwood KDC-BT73DAB radio and JBL by HARMANN GTO-5EZ/GTO-3EZ power amplifier. Now a few more pictures from shows attended: At the MK2 Golf Owners Club National meet: Nicely placed Meld has been put to bed during the Winters of 2013 & 14 and mainly been used to go to a number of shows when not in DG Autotech. attended shows are: Stanford Hall, All Types Bodelwyddan, Weston Park and the best (imo) Tatton Park. After Weston Park the roof lining started to peel I did try to repair using new glue but it just wasn't happening so a call on here and Purple Tom replied; deal struck and on on bank holiday weekend we drove up to Derbyshire to collect. Tips on fitting were past on and those tips made my life and the install much easier (thanks Tom) Nov 2015 I decided to go for a drive and she wouldn't start, she had been showing poor starting signs. Managed to find a Mobile Mechanic and he fitted a new starter motor only at the end of the install no start. Quick diagnostics by him and a frantic search on this forum by me for starting issues and we decided the ignition switch had gone....a week later and the part fitted Meld fired first time every time. 2016 has seen a change in wheel colour.......I didn't think I'd like the gold but they grew on me but due to an entrapment in the drive of my in laws farm after I'd come back from Weston Park last year; the alloys didn't get away scott free as the stones peppered them on my escape. So ready for this seasons shows I decided to get the LM's refurbished. The change did throw up mega issues though. I thought it would be easy so in May this year I took them to Platinum wheels in Swindon with the hope of getting them laser cut but due to them being split rims they coulbn't help, they didn't think their laser could manage the full dish, so a rethink and a chat with a friend put me onto his friend in Banbury. He's a powder coater and after a chat and a drive the wheels were handed over. 2 weeks later and I got them back, unfortunately due to the centre being changed back to how it should be the offset changed and when driving the rear were scrubbing the arch. Dialynx to the rescue (keep forgetting these guys are on my doorstep (granted the are more Audi specialists)) but when you see what they have done....well they must be good. After a few visits the idea height was found and this is it: The style and colour may not be to other people's taste but I didn't want bling wheels any more but I so love the LM alloy. New colour and new Dunlop Sportmaxx RT2 in 205/40/17 all round latest full photos
×
×
  • Create New...