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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.
  7. 1 point
    Welcome Jensen! I have just returned onto the forum and also looking forward to some shows and cruises this year with likeminded members based around the East Midlands! Finally finished my restoration late last year! Late 95 conversion also in black 😉
  8. 1 point
    If you have the K brace you will have to drill though mate . The trimport looks bolt on bolt off . Here it is anyway. https://www.bafmotorsport.co.uk/products/volkswagen-golf-mk2-k-brace?variant=38007283056793&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-27&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZjAbYUnFPLhMC0SmwT_08eJK1ib2D-MiDne2-yM2Ps38PuBa2dXty8aAuriEALw_wcB This video is how they mount fittings etc.
  9. 1 point
    How comes you was rolling around on the floor taking pictures, had you fallen over. 😂😂🤣😂😘😂
  10. 1 point
    This post has been compiled from the misc posts on here (mostly by Mr. cheesewire) and the tons of good info is in this PDF (I presume from the Bentley manual?) - http://volkswagen.msk.ru/index.php?p=page18_cr but please note it's for the North American-spec AAA engines, not the rest-of-world ABV engines. Hopefully it's definitive, but if it's not let me know and I'll amend it :) So, first up: I believe that only early VRs have a 2-stage fan setup. Possibly all and certainly all late VRs have a 3-stage fan setup. Essentially, if you've got 3 temp senders in your thermostat housing, you have 3-stages. If you have AC or an auto, you'll always have a 3-stage fan setup regardless of age. Fan switching temperatures while the engine is running These are approximate as it depends on the age of the senders and how crusty they are. VAG-specified values and part numbers are listed further down. Stage 1 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, directly to the fans Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) Stage 2 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, combined with info from the yellow temp sender via the fan controller Switch On: 99-105 C (210-221 F) Switch Off: 91-98 C (196-208 F) Stage 3 Controlled by the black coolant temp sender, via the fan controller Not listed in the guide above, but it kicks in at around 110-115 C. For non-AC cars, stage 3 should never come on under normal conditions, if it does, you have a problem. Temp senders The coolant warning light is actually a level sensor (those 2 metal spikes in the header tank are what the plug is for and measure yes/no on coolant level). There is no over-temp warning other than the gauge going up/big cloud of steam coming out of the engine bay :lol: The main fan control temp sender is screwed into the radiator. This is a 3-pin brass jobber and has 2 different pin layouts depending on if you have early/late VR. It looks like early ones are all 3 pins in a row, late ones are 3 pins in a triangle shape. One pin (not sure what colour, probably brown) is earth. Pin 2 (thick red) is stage 1 output and is full-current to the fan. It has the following switching temps: Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) - officially rated at 95 C Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) - officially rated at 84 C Pin 3 (thin red/black) is stage 2 relay-switched output, which has the following switching temps: Switch On: 99-105 C (210-221 F) - officially rated at 102 C Switch Off: 91-98 C (196-208 F) - officially rated at 91 C There are also holes for another 3 temp senders in the thermostat housing. There will be 2 or 3 senders plugged into them as thusly (from left to right looking at the front of the engine): Yellow, 4-pin plug. VAG part number 701 919 369 D (about £20, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) Coolant gauge, fan control unit and aux water pump (always there) Switches on: 101-107 C (214-225 F) Switches off: 94-100 C (201-212 F) Blue, 2-pin plug. VAG part number 025 906 041 A (about £8, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) ECU (always there) Black or brown Black, 2-pin plug. VAG part number 357 919 369 F (about £6, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) For a late-spec 3 stage fan control (or auto gearbox for some reason) and switches on at approx. 112 C Brown, 4-pin plug. VAG part number 357 919 369 E (about £8, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) Only if you have AC. This is (apparently) a 3-stage sender (i.e. you get 5 stages in total! :lol: ) - VAG part number 357 919 369 E Don't quite understand the numbers in ETKA for this, but needless to stay, the first of the stages also switches on at 112C General temperature readings Normal ranges of temps vary hugely depending on how hot it is out, how hard you're driving and how long you've been sitting in traffic. Generally speaking, you don't want the oil to go much over 110. Up to 118 is probably ok, but not for the entire journey. The engine isn't really properly warmed up until the oil hits 80ish. Coolant temperatures tend to fluctuate much more depending on speed and/or sitting in traffic. Again, generally speaking you want the temp gauge to read in the middle of the gauge (98 degrees) when you're cruising. If you're pushing along hard or sitting in traffic, it will usually creep up to just over 104 or so. Much over 110 is not good as the pressure really starts to build up in the system and it's a likely indication that your fans may not be working. Above 45mph, normal summer cruise water temp is usually 80 - 84 deg C Above 40mph, normal Winter cruise temp is 75 - 82 deg C Overheating Although the coolant is primarily water it won't boil at 100 degrees, as it's a pressurised system, so it's not necessarily a bad thing. However, the pressure will obviously build up in the system over these temperatures and put extra strain on what may well be 15+yr old rubber. If you do get a gush of steam out of the engine bay - pull over as quickly as you can and stop! If you run the engine with no coolant and/or too hot, you're in danger of blowing the head gasket and/or warping the head. Neither of which are fun to replace and certainly a much bigger ball-ache than a bit of rubber pipe! Temperature reading check If you think you've got problems, it's always worth checking that the dash readout is actually correct. New senders are only a few quid from VAG and worth swapping if they're the old, crusty originals. Then at least you know you're not chasing phantom faults. The older and crustier they get, the more insulated they are from the actual water and thus, the less accurate they are. If you plug the car into VAG-COM, it will display the temp that the ECU is reading (i.e. from the blue sender) so you can compare that to the reading on the gauge that's coming from the yellow sender and see if you've got a mis-match. There is of course still the possibility that both senders are crusty and reading wrong... :lol: Fans check 1. Take the plug off the rad sender 2. Take the plug off the black temp sender in the stat housing. 3. Switch ignition on. In the rad sensor plug - red wire is stage 1, thin red/black is stage 2. The other wire is the common connection. Bridge each of the two wires in turn across the common wire and see if both speeds come on. If they do, good. 4. Bridge the black plug with a paper clip or something, does stage 3 come on? Sounds uber loud! So that's the fan test done. Tick it off as outruled. Fans/pump after-run The controller stays on for 10 minutes after you switch the car off (regardless of temperature) and will maintain power to the aux water pump. Stage 1 and 2 fans will come on if needed (same temps as when the car is running). After you turn the ignition off after a long hot run, you should hear the faint whirr (or loud whirr/grinding if it's shagged) of the aux water pump and fan stage 1 or 2 will be on. If you just turn the ignition on (even if the car is cold), you should hear the aux water pump whirring. The idea behind the after-run pump is too circulate the water round the heater matrix and rear of the block to prevent localised over heating. Thus, the aux water pump runs regardless, come rain, shine, snow, ice and even if the engine hasn't even run (ignition on, then off). Stage 1 has direct battery power and will run if it's triggered. Stage 2 has power maintained to it only during the 10 min after run cycle and will also run only if tiggered. Stage 3 is ignition only. Fans/pump after-run fault-checking You can use the following procedure to find out if your yellow temp sender is the cause of no after-run or not. This does not necessarily prove that the yellow temp sender is working, but it will prove if the circuitry that it controls is working or not. Turn ignition key on, then off again Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the yellow temperature sender switch Bridge contacts B, D (brown/red and brown wire) The radiator fan and auxiliary coolant pump must come on If NO, check the fan control unit and/or the aux water pump. Thermostats and radiators When the engine is cold, you want to keep as much heat in as possible to get it all warmed up. The standard VR thermostat opens at 80 degrees. When the thermostat opens, it allows water to flow through the radiator to provide additional cooling to try and keep the engine termperature to a reasonable level. Thermostat temperatures Opens at approximately 80 C (176 F) VAG part number b 075 121 113 D (approx. £20, but £10 from TPS) Closes at approximately 105 C (221 F)...apparently! Stroke min. 7.0mm (9/32 in.) - i.e. it's supposed to open by at least 7mm. Thermostat fault finding If the thermostat is jammed open (usual state of failure) then your engine will take ages to get up to temp and thus be running rich and using a lot of fuel. The engine doesn't switch over to it's normal running map until it reads 70 degrees on the coolant temperature. If the thermostat is jammed closed, your engine will overheat very easily and most likely start popping hoses. This is easy to spot and the radiator won't be getting hot if this is the case. You can take the thermostat out and put it in a pan of water on the hob to test whether it opens or not. It's always a good idea to test new thermostats like this to ensure you haven't got a dud. Fan controller repair Apparently, the fan controller units (the box of relays in front of the washer fluid bottle). There's a couple of diodes inside that can come unsoldered from the PCB, but can be reattached with some soldering action. Coolant Always refill your coolant system with the bright pink (hurrah!) G12+ coolant. Older G11 and G12 coolants shouldn't be used and certainly not mixed together as they'll clag up the coolant system. If possible, flush out the coolant system with clean water from a hose before re-filling. The VR coolant system capacity is about 9 litres and the concentrations you should use are on the label of the G12+ bottles. However, for UK use where the temperature doesn't really get down all that cold, 3 litres (2 bottles) of G12+ will suffice and just fill the rest with water. Pumps! Main water pump This is the main engine water pump and is on the left side of the engine, driven by the serpentine belt. VAG part number for a new pump with gasket: b021121004X It's also worth getting the 3 new allen-head bolts that hold the pump into the block. VAG part number: N90221803 (x3) Annd while you're there, why not get some new allen-head bolts that hold the pulley to the pump too. VAG part number: N90544202 (x3) Aux water pump This is the electric pump by the right side the engine. Brace yourself, it's about £120! VAG part number: b251965561B Aux water pump rubber ring mounting thingies. VAG part number: 035959209E Oil pump This is also an uber-expensive part (circa £100). It lives in the sump and is driven by a shaft that comes down from inside the block. VAG part number: 021115105B The pump is held in with two allen-head bolts. VAG part numbers: N90355902 (x2) Coming from the oil pump is a pipe that feeds the oil back into the engine. This has a gasket for it, which appears to be obsolete and is held on with another 2 allen-head bolts. VAG part number: N10227803 (x2) As the sump needs to come off to get at it, you're best replacing the sump gasket too. This is quite expensive (circa £35) and does change depending on car vintage. Early cars use VAG part number b021103609. Later cars use VAG part number b021103609B. No, I don't know what the difference is :( Lastly, if you're really keen, you can replace all 26 of the bolts holding the sump on as well. Again, this changes depending on if you have early or late engine, but changes at the same time the sump gasket does. I'd imagine as long as you've got the same screws as gasket, then you'll be ok. Early cars use VAG part number +N90008401 (x26) and are M6x14mm. Later cars use VAG part number: +N90423402 (x26) and are M6x17mm and self-locking. Low temp parts You can get lower temperature thermostats and radiator fan switches. These are just parts from other VWs, so don't go paying silly prices for them. Personally, I'd avoid the lower-temp thermostats as they can make the engine run too cool. The VR6's cold running map doesn't switch off until 70 C water temp, so if your Neuspeed low sender is opening at 70 C instead of the normal 80 C, you may stay in cold running mode for a bit longer than usual...and the blue temp sender has quite a big influence on the overall fuelling ;-) The lower temp rad switch makes sense though - the low-temp fan switches (the one that goes into the radiator) - all are from a T4 Transporter: Option 1 - VAG part number 701 959 481 This will only fit early VRs with the 3 pins all in a row, so check first! Stage 1 On at: 87 C Off at: 76 C Stage 2 On at: 93 C Off at: 82 C Option 2 - VAG part number 251 959 481 K Same as the above, but for later Transporters... thus it might have the triangular-shaped pin layout. Maybe. Sadly, there don't seem to be any lower-temp versions of the magic Stage 3 fan sender, but it's not too hard to wire stage 3 to come on at the same time as stage 2. Wiring up a dash-switch for stage 3 Don't forget the quality "wire up fan stage 3 to a dash switch" mod ;-) An hour with a bit of wire and a switch will do wonders for your summer traffic temps. You can bridge the red/black stage 2 wire and also the black stage 3 wires with a 2 way switch and manually start them in the car. Lastly, Mr. Cheesewire has also discovered you only need one, yes ONE, 11" SPAL fan to keep the water at 95 deg constantly in traffic, even when it's 27 deg C outside, like it was last night when he was stuck on the A12 for an hour waiting for an accident to clear... Cold ECU map Lambda closed loop engages when water temp reachs 70 deg. That's why VRs always feel quicker when they're warming up because they're in open loop and running rich :D
  11. 1 point
    Congratulations on the purchase - saw this car and went for a good price considering the work carried out and the recaro seats and alloys. Aftermarket Slimline fans - Shaun is the man for them on here- sounds to me likely to be set up wrong in the first place- if you search cooling guide on here its very informative - you can test by bridging all 3 speed settings. The fan control unit is a common failure point as well due to age . Basics first are to bridge the fan switch sensor (one in radiator) plug for settings 1 ignition off- setting 2 bridge same plug but different pins ignition on - settings 3 bridge the the black coolant sensor plug ignition on that is in a row next to the other 2 coolant sensors .
  12. 1 point
    https://vintagerubber.com/volkswagen/corrado/
  13. 1 point
    That’s what I like to see, a bit of ingenuity. Glad they’re in, at least you’re comfortable in the knowledge it’s a one time job and you’ll not be pressing more in there in the near future!
  14. 1 point
    There is a wee yellow arrow top right that shows the earth block that’s hidden behind the dash 👍
  15. 1 point
    In between I also experimented with 3D printing. Especially for smaller parts 3D printing should be optimal. Unfortunately I had to realize that the quality is not good enough in my opinion. Therefore I stopped the production of some parts. Especially the clips of the speedometer are complicated to make. There are 3-4 different versions of these clips. It is almost impossible to make a universal version that fits all frames. (535858508 & 535858507) (535 827 769) Most materials used for 3D printing are simply too hard and brittle. Maybe it would be possible to assemble them once, but they would break at the latest when disassembling them.
  16. 1 point
    Yes I have many parts form a 2.0 A including the head +block + refurbished manifold + O2a gearbox with 16v gearing. upper and lower and many other parts . Engine came out of a Corrado a few weeks back and have a video of it running. I will send you an email with my contact details- based in the Midlands.
  17. 1 point
    Corrado VR6 Storm in Mystic Blue. Car was bought from an enthusiast, I found it after 2 years of searching. To go over the car itself : Standard parts : Standard Storm parts, Mystic Blue paint, Black Leather interior, Storm detailing, BBS Solitaire wheels, Steel kickplates.... ALSO and not part of the standard extra's the dealer option Air Con, which is still in good working order. Done before I bought it : AMD work done within 2 years of it being bought, still produces 10-15hp more than standard, checked with Stealth rolling road a few years back. Silicon hoses where needed. Schrick Inlet manifold. Koni Suspension. Alpine head unit. Performance HT leads. Corrado Storm mats. And what I have added : Headlamp loom upgrade. Front and rear brake upgrade - front to 288mm and rear to MK4. Heater Control illumination. SWG Scuttle panel. Steering wheel refurbished. Replaced alarm with Cat 1 as previous alarm was malfunctioning. Chains and clutch done some 40k miles previous. Gearbox rebuild at approx 140k miles. Bare metal respray and new windscreen around 155k miles. New Bosch Battery. The car has a full service history having covered some 177,358 miles, I have 2 large binders full of history. Rear Spoiler works without a problem- both manual and automatically, Sunroof works sliding and tilt, although internal panel does not go up with tilt. Wing Mirrors work without a problem. Car drives and accelerates without issue. Leather interior in good condition considering age. Only draw backs are the heater that does not work on '2' which is a copper connection issue, a new heater control module can be sourced from German Heritage. Internal sunroof panel does not lift on tilt. Repaired rip in bottom rear of front passenger seat which I inherited from previous owner, never caused an issue, size of about 50p. MOT'd until April 2021. I have some extra parts as well for this that could be offered to the purchaser at a greatly reduced price. It breaks my heart to sell this but I am in a position that it needs to go, I will NOT accept silly money and can hang onto it as long as is necessary to get the right price. I think this is a very rare beast, not just because its the best Storm colour combination - Mystic Blue with Black Leather but also because of the Schrick manifold and the Air Con. Don't miss out... Offers over £7250. NO offers from outside UK will be accepted, all monies paid whether cash/cheque/bankers draft/Paypal will need to be processed by my Bank before the car is released. Car is advertised elsewhere so I reserve the right to withdraw this advert at any time. Buyer to arrange collection upon payment clearance.
  18. 1 point
    Diagrams from the Bentley Manual for the 2.0 16v (9A) electrical circuit for the ECU, I have already listed most of them in a previous post, but thought these wiring diagrams may help also. Green dots show ECU pins. Si Some info here regarding the Lambda sensor on the 9A
  19. 1 point
    Not much of an update, been a bit busy with the house this weekend Got a tip for the exhaust, nice fake carbon from ebay and started looking at the side repeater fitting in the mirrors because I deleted them from the wings
  20. 1 point
    There was an Australian member on here who purchased a VSR a fair few years back in the UK and shipped it over to OZ.
  21. 1 point
    Yay - we are up and running. I took the time to tidy up all the wires, ensured splices were covered and then I used that fabric type tape to wrap the wires up tidy. I have 3 issues to resolve... 1. I had a casulty in the fuel line going from accumulator to filter (the smaller lengthed one - believe to be PN 535 201 218 A - the black plastic shrink to fit pipe split. I have used some similar ish clear pipe my father in law has for his tractors to get it running but it seems to leak. Does anyone know of any options to buy replacements? Heritage do this but I'd rather not spend 85 quid on pipes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Line-Kit-K-Jetronic-Fuel-Filter-to-Accumulator-Stainless-Steel/392370035642?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D33aba946907c435a8867d21042a272a7%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D372721072798%26itm%3D392370035642%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 2. TI am really struggling remounting the underbody pump unit to the car. I've bent the metal clips that locate around the rubbers to a 90 degree angle thinking I'd bend them back into place once pump assembly is mounted but struggling to get the clips bent over the thread and bolt on top. Is there a better way!? 3. And lastly my fuel and coolant gauge doesn't work. I dont know if they ever worked or if it's something I disconnected when sorting wires out. I did see the fuel gauge reading more than full whilst messing about getting the pumps to work. Does anyone know which colour wires relate in the fuse box area, if any at all? The rest of the dash and electrics (spoiler, lights etc) are working well. Here's a couple of vids of the car. Headphones work best!
  22. 1 point
    As above, but one is on ebay in Sheffield 254653755202 item number
  23. 1 point
    So I got ahold of BBM and they basically told me the same thing. I am also running that 4bar pressure regulator and all supporting mods for the stage upgrade. I just wanted to be sure that I didn't need to get a new cam for this chip or a new chip for the cam haha
  24. 1 point
    All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado. Just kidding. Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems. Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure. The main grounds to check or replace are: 1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic) 2: transmission bolt to frame 3: intake manifold to firewall 4: firewall to hood hinge 5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down. Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation. All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.
  25. 1 point
    It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up.
  26. 1 point
    I do Bill. It’s been in storage for a while now, only coming out for a yearly MOT and service but I’ve still got it. I keep thinking about selling up but just can’t bring myself to do it
  27. 1 point
    That's the feed line - comes from the tank to the pump, then to the filter and then to your fuel accumulator. There should also be a return line that goes straight back to the tank.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Been tinting rear lights
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.
  33. 1 point
    i just tried to down load it to a stick...that link has been removed......however in hd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUOFMFKArl0 " Thank You very much indeed, loepan " ... I've just watched it and, like many others, I'm " chufti-ed " to bits !! and equally " Thank You very much too, kdub " for your really helpful gem of : AN EXCELLENT BIT OF SOFTWARE for grabbing youtube videos etc and allowing you to save them to your device. http://clipgrab.org Go to that link and select English as language. Then download the software (FREE). Now copy and paste the youtube address into the search bar and Grab Clip (Select mp4 Format). You will have in a few minutes the entire video saved to your hard drive for your viewing pleasure
  34. 1 point
    Corrado looks nice, that sportline looked a beaut too. I used to have a red sportline a few years ago.
  35. 1 point
    You won't hear a VR6 pump prime as it is in the tank - there is no secondary lift unit like on the other cars. You can feel the relay energise if you put your finger on it when you turn on the ignition.
  36. 1 point
    he's had 10 years to sort it,hopefully should be done by now!!
  37. 1 point
    Not sure buddy though I must be honest I've not really plugged my phone in and looked at the levels, I'll check it out.
  38. 1 point
    To put it simply: do you go to concerts and face away from the stage? Do away with the rear fills and focus on the best speakers and front stage your pockets can justify. Those rears will not be missed with a proper front stage setup.
  39. 1 point
    Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you
  40. 1 point
    I received the prototype binnacle covers yesterday. I will try and get some pictures up tonight to get a verdict from folks! Initial impressions are reasonably positive. As you'd expect size wise they are a perfect copy as they are a 3D scanned copy. Clips and everything look good so should be a perfect fit. The minor downsides I guess are that they're printed in a white plastic and then painted black on top. The coverage isn't totally perfect but I think once they're fitted you'd struggle to see any white plastic anywhere, and for those that were not totally happy a quick coat of a gloss black plastikote or similar would do the job. The texture on the top isn't exactly the same, but again, given the size of the pieces and their location, I'd be surprised if anyone noticed. I'm building myself up to prising off my current speedo binnacle covers (because I'm worried they'll break!) and test fitting these to see how they look over the weekend, and subject to feedback on the pictures, will be looking to put an order in with the company soon. Prices look to be as I estimated - about £10/pair delivered. Further updates as I have them!
  41. 1 point
    hence why female cars are 'powered by fairydust!' when I got the rado' I gave the wife my looked after lupo and sold her car so now the little lupo's her daily, put some hard work into that little beast, I honestly wish I had sold it and let her drive whatever she wanted. its like watching your best mate getting beat up in the school playground! :bonk:
  42. 1 point
    awesome work timbo ;) upol gravitex , you need to apply it using a stone chip gun via air compressor at around 50psi
  43. 1 point
    As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine. Have a look and tell me what you think!
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Vr6 arb fastens different and wider, and if you have done the 4x100 to 5x100widetrack conversion as it sounds like you have, u need a vr6 arb track rods, wishbones, hubs and driveshafts, all these parts are also on mk3 vr6s and mk3 gtis, if your struggling to find track Rods n arb I've got some in my garage
  46. 1 point
    Thanks for stepping up! I think it's just a case of everyone getting used to the new format- the forum was similar with past face lifts. Takes a few weeks for posting to get back to what it was before the change. Gonzo, any progress?
  47. 1 point
    Yes there is a small plastic 10mm nut to undo which is easy enough to get to, I found that sliding the power steering reservoir out of the way helped things. You got another VR now then Adam?
  48. 1 point
    Is there not a plastic tab held down by a a plastic nut you need to do undo first? before lifting up the res. Located down the side of the power steering bottle I think
  49. 1 point
    Last year I replaced all brake pipes right up to the ABS unit under the bonnet. The only original pipes are now under the bonnet (ABS to master cylinder etc.). I got all the bits from http://www.automec.co.uk. I bought their "Universal Light" flaring tool I think it was, which was around £100 but it's a lovely piece of equipment which makes great beautiful flares on your pipes. It's a lot of money but even if I only used it once it's paid for itself. You can get hand-held flaring tools much cheaper but in my experience, the force needed to make excellent flares is too great for a hand held tool. The Automec flaring tools are used in a vice. Hand held tools allow you to do a pipe in situ though, but I don't think that's really necessary or advisable. I bought the normal copper pipe from them. Some people prefer the copper nickel as opposed to the standard copper as it's harder, but that just makes it much harder to bend, so I opted fro the standard copper. It's advisable to get a bending tool too from the same website, as although you can easily bend copper by hand, there are places you'll want a tight bend. Their basic bending tool isn't very expensive. You may want to also buy the deburring tool to clean up the cut pipe. Oh yes, you'll need a pipe cutter too. I got one from a website that a guy on here started I think. The name escapes me, but any adjustable copper pipe cutter will do. I think B&Q even sell them. My original brake pipes failed the MoT and I'm actually glad the guy did it. I really like the MoT guy who does my car. He really likes the car, squeezes us (me and my dad) in to his schedule when he recognises the car on the phone and doesn't fail it on trivia that you can't prove otherwise. When I saw the pipes I was actually shocked. Also, my brake hoses were bulging at points. If you're going to replace your brake lines and your hoses are old too, then I would just get the full set of 6. I got mine from GSF but others prefer Goodridge braided hoses. Incidentally, you've got virtually no chance of removing the unions from the old pipe anyway, as they will be corroded on. The best way to remove the old pipes is with bolt cutters. Try to catch the fluid with newspaper. Fitting the new pipes around the car is surprisingly easy. Some bits are a bit tough because you have to get it behind heat shields for the exhaust, but be systematic and it's no problem. You may have to use cable ties to secure them to places as the original plastic clips will likely have broken off. It's a good idea to 'seal' the brake reservoir with cling film, then put the lid on as this helps to minimise leakage and prevent the complete emptying of the system. Another tip is to make a sort of plug with one of your new unions and a hammered down small piece of copper pipe (flared at the union, obviously) and place this temporarily in the ABS unit for the particular pipe you are replacing. This again helps to minimise leakage and air ingress. You need to watch with the unions, as most are the standard M10 male unions for German cars, but one of them is an M12. I'm not quite sure why this is but I think it's to ensure that you fit the pipes back in the same order. So you'll need to buy M10 unions and a couple of M12 (if you want to make an M12 temporary plug too) unions from Automec. All in all, I replaced all four brake lines right back to the ABS unit, all new brass unions (lovely quality), bought a brake flaring tool, cutter, bending tool and deburrer, with new copper pipe and new flexible hoses for probably around £150-170. Something like that. Most of the cost is the tools, but you'll always have them. Also, when you make the flares up, take care to make the right one. VWs use what I think they call a single flare, whereas the tool can make single or double. Basically, just read the instruction carefully and compare your flare with those on the original pipes and you can't go wrong. It's very important to remove burrs though before flaring as they WILL leak if you don't do this. Oh, another thing. You will likely want to replace the brake pressure compensation valve which is attached to the rear suspension and reduces braking pressure on the rear as the car tilts forward (to prevent rear wheel lock under heavy braking). Mine was original and was totally gubbed and just about seized. If you're replacing all your pipes then just get a new one of these. They are not that expensive if bought on the Internet. Be careful to note which pipes went where (there are two inlets and two outlets). After bleeding the air out, check very carefully for fluid leaks. New fluid is harder to see because it's clean. I had a very minor leak which was cured by tightening it up. I was worried about over tightening them and deforming the flare. Just remembered, you might want to get a brake pipe spanner. I'd buy one from Halfords for this. The Automec one is very cheap and not really up to it. One more thing, the hardest bit with the fronts is probably getting it through the sidewall of the engine bay. There's a rubber grommet that you need to remember to put on the pipe BEFORE doing the final flare. Likewise you need to remember to put the unions on the pipe BEFORE doing the last flare, otherwise you'll need to cut the pipe again to get them on! Aligning the pipe through to the engine bay, with this grommet such that it doesn't rub and follows the rough path of the old pipe can be tricky. Lasty(!) the size of pipe is 3/16".
  50. 1 point
    The car is a 1995 VR6 I've done some searching around on the forum and learnt a lot - but i just want to get some views before i invest in a new fuel pump. Here's a detailed description of the issue - some of these points may be red herrings: - Unfortunately allowed the fuel level to get very low then filled up with a full tank of BP unleaded [normally i only use optimax] - 11 miles later whilst driving on the motorway at about 70mph the car started to lose power, then was jerking around like a kangaroo! Pulled the car on to the hard shoulder - turned it off and on again and then it seemed better. - Drove another 100 miles that day, mainly motorway driving with slight hesitation esp when starting in first gear and also with low revs in second gear - car pulled and ran fine for most of the journey. - My friend who was in the car during all this said he'd had the same issue on his golf 16v and injector cleaner had helped. - Next day replaced the fuel filter and tried again - still serious hesitation to the point of almost stalling when pulling away. Once above 2500rpm power is good. - Then added injector cleaner which made about a 50% improvement with this issue - hesitation felt far less. But still present - also at high revs (4000/4500rpm) in 4/5th hesitation is felt. I think its the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank getting in to the fuel system. I had hoped the cheaper options of new fuel filter and injector cleaner would cure it - but its still there. Would adding injector cleaner again to the next tank full be advisable? Or is it bad to use it too often? Does it sound like the fuel pump is on its way out? Is there anyway to diagnose this before i pay for the fuel pump to be replaced? Could it be something else such as spark plugs? Any help appreciated :roll: I should add that the idle is very stable and smooth - it idles happily at about 600rpm and also the car fires first time without issue.
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