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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  2. 2 points
    There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.
  4. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  5. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  6. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  7. 2 points
  8. 1 point
    I think it is a mixture of factors too. I've done more testing and whilst it is good 5-10-20 mins after, so far more useable, but if i leave it for 30/40 mins I get the same problem. It always starts but interesting how the time frames have shifted. Perhaps points to time worn compenents. Thinking back to my white car, although fault seemingly solved it did have a few occassions where it would crank longer than expected though more than 9 our of 10 times it was fine.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Hello Everyone, A long standing school friend of mine has owned a VR6 for many years and I always loved the sound of the engine. Late last year I decided to take the plunge myself and I am now the owner of a VR6 Storm - Mystic Blue. Since there is a Corrado Forum sticker on the wondow, I suspect there are some members of the Forum who might recognise the car? The engine pulls really well but, unsurprisingly, the car has a number of issues that need sorting out and the knowledge on this Forum is going to be a very valuable resource! Although I have done a lot of my own mechanics over the years I currently only have a single garage which is a bit too tight for working on the car... so my first question to the Forum is does anyone know of a garage/mechanic who know the Corrado located in Suffolk or Essex (I live near Ipswich). If not I suppose I will have to make use of the Summer weather to do some jobs outside (at least I have plent of space on the drive !) My second question is regarding the engine started getting quite hot this week. When I checked the coolant level it was a tiny bit below the minimum level, but topping it up has made no difference. The strange thing is when I switch the ignition off the radiator fans start up, but when I switch the ignition on or start the car the fans are no longer running. Wonder if this is a common/known issue? However since it is getting hot even when crusing in top gear at 60 when I assumne the fans should not be needed would I be righ in suspecting the thermostat is not openeing fully? This VR6 is by no means concours but it is in my opinion in too good condition to break so I am determined to fix the mechanical issues first and then sort out the paintwork. I look forward to getting to know everyone Pete
  11. 1 point
    Looks like Recaro front seats - would need a pic of the controls to confirm corrado. The whole interior looks like it has been retrimmed as the door cars don't look like that from factory + it's a mk3 golf right?
  12. 1 point
    To be able to do the job it was imperative that I was able to deal with Tradition which I have not been able to do since just over half the people who voted said leave…. 🙈. Eventually after jumping through many hoops of fire I have been able to get an account and some of the prices are less than what they were when available directly through VAG UK although the carriage charges are outrageous BUT we had no choice. I have another €500 of parts in my basket but my customer has bought himself another Audi to practice his DIY skills and he may need a few parts for that.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    It doesn't give you nearly as many options as on a newer car, but you can at least view and clear faults for the engine and for the ABS ECU. It's also possible to monitor a wide range of sensor values - basically nearly every sensor that talks to the ECU will show up in a measuring block. Are you seeing any fault codes? High RPM at idle would certainly suggest an air leak somewhere after the maf, or a fauly ISV. I think there is a trick somewhere in the VAG-COM interface for exercising the ISV solenoid - sometimes a proper clean will also help. Check out all your vacuum lines and hoses (to the brake servo, FPR etc.) and the EGR and crankcase breather system - there is also a black baffle muffler box connected to the ISV that often cracks and leaks air.
  15. 1 point
    Looks Sherry to me too. I think the front of both sills could do with a in person look at as well
  16. 1 point
    I wouldn’t buy a recently restored car, the recent price increases make a bondo and newspaper restoration a financial win for a seller, then 12 months down the line it has more blisters than a herpes convention. If you can find a car with online history from a good owner cashing out (rather than cashing in) that’s where I suggest you put your money.
  17. 1 point
    That is shame but at least it sounds like you'll get closure on that car. Pleased to see you're still going to get one and I will keep an eye I've been through pain of resto and bodywork etc and would recommend avoiding all that hassle and buying a good one straight off. Im not normally someone to worry about mileage (155k on mine) but concede in the UK market people would sooner by a ropey 100k car over a well sorted to 155k, so if I were doing it again I'd be aiming for sub 120k miles, great body and make sure it had leather (cost me a £grand to make that happen which on top of bodywork and engine work makes for an expensive game and a car that will never be worth its cost..). The engine can be sorted at say Stealth racing but the rest of the mechanicals (apart from ABS) is boggo mk3 golf so anyone can do it. All the best and keep us posted on outcomes of the old car. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  18. 1 point
    I made mine “quick release” so much easier to check the fluids
  19. 1 point
    I'm sure Fuzz appreciated your input Kip! Plus seeing your absolutely astounding car would give the guys a target
  20. 1 point
    Great colour and pretty rare. Lovely golden fleck. The only black id want. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    The current wheels suit the car imo
  22. 1 point
    Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.
  23. 1 point
    Generally speaking that how prices do increase, someone gets ambitious, an another undercuts a bit and the prices roll up because of it. It happened with the Corrado over the last 5 years, speculators are now stopping enthusiasts owning the cars of their youth.
  24. 1 point
    Thread resurrection - where can I get one of these Kurzy looms? Will iit work on a mk2 and mk3 as well?
  25. 1 point
    Late body g60 also only has one pump - and uses the early in tank vr 3 bar pierburg pump- same bracket as a vr for fuel filter. Fuel pressure regulator they are obsolete on a g60 though what a shit show. My guess is your electric plug/cabling on fuel pump or sender unit is wrong- the pump you have fitted is the single pump same as a VR or late G60 my car is the same.
  26. 1 point
    I’d agree that you’d be better with two fans in operation as when the stage 2 fan engages as that’s the idea, one fan isn’t enough as the temp has gone so the rad sender engages the second stage, going from one fan to the other won’t improve your cooling one bit. It’s a nice little project sorting the fans and wiring out. Something else to bear in mind is the auxiliary water pump, you need to see how he’s wired the fans. If he’s bypassed the main fan controller unit chances are this won’t be running if the fans come on when you turn the engine off. You can tell if the auxiliary pump is working by just turning the ignition on without engaging the starter motor, you should hear the pump run for 30 seconds or so, no buzzing and it is duff.
  27. 1 point
    Congrats on your new Corrado. It looks very clean and is in one of the best colours for a C (in my opinion). Enjoy your new purchase, you won't regret it. Here is a few links to parts suppliers and specialists that might help. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ https://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ https://www.jabbasport.com/
  28. 1 point
    The slims aren’t massively better but quieter, it’s also that with them being new they should be more reliable. As you know I have a turbo fitted and as such more heat in the bay and a big fat intercooler infront of the radiator doesn’t help either, the fans were coming on a fair bit. I read up on spal fans and their abilities and went for 12” fans the best slim and a very powerful not so slim. This set up really does draw a lot of air when both are on. My cooling is definitely better than before and hopefully because it’s new it won’t matter how often it comes on. If new OE fans were available off the shelf I might have stuck to stock but I think this set up works well for the heat I’ve got to get rid of in slow moving traffic on a hot day. Having said all that my previous Corrado was a stock set up and I never really had problems with that, over 20k miles but I did change the thermostat, housing and sensors early on and the correct coolant with not much water. But these days the fans are nearly 30 years old so it’s a problem you might have to solve one day anyway. My 12” set up when nearly finished. It does fit but that’s about as big as you can go.
  29. 1 point
    no m8 im not far from birmingham - i will ask the guy next time i see him for you
  30. 1 point
    Moody - there are a few options available. I would say it's better to upgrade than try and find a working Corrado roof. My experiences to date - I bought a working corrado mechanism from a chap with the initals BR that was sold as working for £200. It broke on the second use. I wouldn't say it was the sellers fault but it's a 25+ year old bit of kit and certainly not worth £200. Don't do what I did - false economy. I then fitted a mk3 mecahansim with a Passat B4 moonroof. That combo works well - you can get the mech for about £45 (I use Leo GS the mk3 parts breaker on facebook - he is a great bloke and a moderator on a lot of groups). The passat moonroof can be picked up for around £50. I would sell mine if anyone wants it, it needs a new seal though. I wasn't a fan of the moonroof for my car. I prefered the stock tin panel. I got lucky and Chris F supplied me a bag of sunroof bits for a reasonable sum so I've got 3 corrado mechs built (2 x in car). I can't sell any of these though as I have 2 corrado's and need to keep it for spares. This is the best route to go - buy a broken mech and try and source a bag of bits (the bag of bits only cost me £50). I've seen somewhere someone has adapted the mk3 mech to work with the corrado inner panel. This is probably the best solution as the corrado mech is weak vs mk3. Mk3 mech out of the box will not auto slide the inner panel. I haven't looked into this with any detail yet.
  31. 1 point
    Merry Christmas one and all.
  32. 1 point
    Corrado VR6 Storm in Mystic Blue. Car was bought from an enthusiast, I found it after 2 years of searching. To go over the car itself : Standard parts : Standard Storm parts, Mystic Blue paint, Black Leather interior, Storm detailing, BBS Solitaire wheels, Steel kickplates.... ALSO and not part of the standard extra's the dealer option Air Con, which is still in good working order. Done before I bought it : AMD work done within 2 years of it being bought, still produces 10-15hp more than standard, checked with Stealth rolling road a few years back. Silicon hoses where needed. Schrick Inlet manifold. Koni Suspension. Alpine head unit. Performance HT leads. Corrado Storm mats. And what I have added : Headlamp loom upgrade. Front and rear brake upgrade - front to 288mm and rear to MK4. Heater Control illumination. SWG Scuttle panel. Steering wheel refurbished. Replaced alarm with Cat 1 as previous alarm was malfunctioning. Chains and clutch done some 40k miles previous. Gearbox rebuild at approx 140k miles. Bare metal respray and new windscreen around 155k miles. New Bosch Battery. The car has a full service history having covered some 177,358 miles, I have 2 large binders full of history. Rear Spoiler works without a problem- both manual and automatically, Sunroof works sliding and tilt, although internal panel does not go up with tilt. Wing Mirrors work without a problem. Car drives and accelerates without issue. Leather interior in good condition considering age. Only draw backs are the heater that does not work on '2' which is a copper connection issue, a new heater control module can be sourced from German Heritage. Internal sunroof panel does not lift on tilt. Repaired rip in bottom rear of front passenger seat which I inherited from previous owner, never caused an issue, size of about 50p. MOT'd until April 2021. I have some extra parts as well for this that could be offered to the purchaser at a greatly reduced price. It breaks my heart to sell this but I am in a position that it needs to go, I will NOT accept silly money and can hang onto it as long as is necessary to get the right price. I think this is a very rare beast, not just because its the best Storm colour combination - Mystic Blue with Black Leather but also because of the Schrick manifold and the Air Con. Don't miss out... Offers over £7250. NO offers from outside UK will be accepted, all monies paid whether cash/cheque/bankers draft/Paypal will need to be processed by my Bank before the car is released. Car is advertised elsewhere so I reserve the right to withdraw this advert at any time. Buyer to arrange collection upon payment clearance.
  33. 1 point
    There was an Australian member on here who purchased a VSR a fair few years back in the UK and shipped it over to OZ.
  34. 1 point
    It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up.
  35. 1 point
    I do Bill. It’s been in storage for a while now, only coming out for a yearly MOT and service but I’ve still got it. I keep thinking about selling up but just can’t bring myself to do it
  36. 1 point
    No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.
  37. 1 point
    Why? Ok it's a KR, but aside from a wing and bit of paint on the front bumper it doesn't look that bad. It's been off the road for a number of years granted and it's not a great ad, but that doesn't mean it's unsalvageable, far from it. Some people want a project and will be happy to pay 2 -2.5k (which is my estimate of it from the pics) for something they can slowly restore. It's not always about end gain, appreciation or the investment, it's about enjoying the hobby and someone will only have a budget that will stretch so far to begin with. It's a decent enough starter for someone and if they swap the Recaros for a set of leather in fair condition, it'll look like a bargain. I've been in ownership long enough to know what can and can't be done with a bit of knowhow and enthusiasm.
  38. 1 point
    Santa came early! (Or late!!) Pretty pleased with the powder coating, for £120 it seems like a bargain! There is some pitting on the rear axle & tank straps but that obviously couldn't be helped, they're not new after all. The subframe and smaller bits look brand new though, really pleased with how they've come out. Most of the bolts have been picked up from VW (the ones that were available) or delivered from Heritage or further afield - had to get some from Germany which is as mental as the delivery cost! Still a couple to come but almost all there now. Brand new genuine grille as well so I now have all parts to de-Storm it. Don't think I will now though, just because I don't want to damage the paint removing badges! New sump as well cos mines looking a little rough. Hopefully finish the underseal/painting this weekend so I'll get some pics before reassembly begins!
  39. 1 point
    I have my fan out the car still. The only markings on it are A52/C2. I could happily send people pictures, but have GIVEN UP TRYING ON HERE ...
  40. 1 point
    I'm very new to the scene as just been able to get to the age where I can insure my valver for a sorta reasonable price, I've paid my subscription to the CCGB and like the members that we have, also on the Corrado forum too. I'm sad to see this situation, as I'd love to get going to some meets and see some cool cars and being able to show my car too (as you lot are the only ones that will appreciate it lol). Problem is as I suppose it is with most members is getting the cars to shows, being the drive or the fact that the car has broke again. I'm in that boat unfortunately, lots of work to do and recovering from a motorbike accident doesn't help either. I like the CCGB site but I do spend most of my time on here, but I do find I struggle to interpret the calendar on the CCGB website and how I'm able to sign up to events (probably it's very simple, just me being an idiot). And again, I'm from Oxford ways, and some shows will be a struggle to get too but you can't really seem to help that as we have members all over the place. And Jim as for the magazine I didn't even know you had one! I'd be very interested to have a read and also add some content to help out. Hopefully once I'm a bit more mobile I'd like to do my car up and I'm even going down the air ride route so some members might be interested.
  41. 1 point
    Hi bud, the effect is done with a shutz gun using stone chip paint, i.e upol's gravitex , pretty much every body shop should know this! this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-SG14-STONE-CHIP-SHUTZ-WAXOYL-WAXOIL-AIR-UNDER-BODY-WAX-SPRAY-GUN-/321734124143?hash=item4ae8d9226f:g:QeoAAOSwqu9VN~7x and this or any other other stone chip that can be used from the shutz gun, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stone-Chip-U-Pol-Gravitex-BLACK-can-be-over-painted-with-most-materials-1lt-/370824709055?hash=item5656e003bf:g:tmMAAOxyMxpRpgba
  42. 1 point
    Oooh ! . Well I've had two in a month . I must be good at something then.
  43. 1 point
    Isn't it where someone ups your reputation? Say you are a constant source of useful nuggets then you up their reputation with the button below their user name info on the left (up and down arrow). This way a new user would be able to gauge how good/reliable the information that user is posting actually is.
  44. 1 point
    It might be useful to remove the loose connector (again!), check for any arcing and perhaps some pitting of either the connector spades or the panel spades. Give them a clean to remove any oxidation, and refit.
  45. 1 point
    Go for them Mike, I'm in two minds weather to mod or not.
  46. 1 point
    Pics might be in wrong order, just tried to link them all again, in a rush :lol:
  47. 1 point
    I was looking around for info and stumbled across this, it makes for an interesting read if you like the VW 24V V6 engines :-) http://www.scribd.com/doc/103127521/7/Crankcase-breather-system
  48. 1 point
    here ya go mate, i'm actually thinking about seating them into the scuttle cover by getting the dremel out so they are more flush, but hey they work just fine.
  49. 1 point
    The missus and the GF in the car together.... you're living dangerously mate! :)
  50. 1 point
    This is one for Andi i guess? There is a small icon, sometimes green under the username status eg Donator/Super Moderator etc Some only say the username when you hover over it.......BUT some people are either on a distinguished road or an unknown quantity So what is it? :scratch:
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