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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

https://the-corrado.net/forum/51-membership-programme/

I did the solid column years ago, it does make it feel a lot more positive, The cowls are getting hard to find, early and late “bottoms” are the same,just different part numbers, tops are different due to the hazard light ! Had the car in the body shop last Xmas, new sills, (eBay ones)came galvanised.Fitted really well, rear arches were showing signs of tin worm, so scored a set of second hand arches of eBay, cleaned up like new ! Front wings were not good, couldn’t find a decent set of late wings,so got a set of used “early”wings from a breaker local to me (eBay again) nearly rust free,the metal seems thicker on the earlier wings ! Body shop did a really good job putting it all together, bottom of the car was resprayed ,looks new again, struggling to put pics up at the moment

Still look in practically every day Still have the G60 but due to go for its winter hibernation Still have various projects ongoing when i have the time which is not a lot at present

So as I said I already had this complete black G60 ,in fairness it was quite a ropey old thing that needed extensive work in every dept , had at least two poor resprays in its life , got a major repair to the rear quarter at some stage with was also poorly repaired and significant rust had set in , Main engine pulley bolt had loosened and damaged the crank nose and key way so a engine strip down was required , indeed I had already pulled the engine and box and was in the process of rebuilding it when I obtained the red one ..

Ha- "Stark Industries"! They must be having a laugh, or else it's a play on the German, "stark" meaning "strong", or in slang cool/sound/great.

From the VIN number, mine was produced 342 from the end of the production run so they were probably using up the parts they had left, and I’ve owned it since it was less than five years old so I expect it’s the original one too as it was too new for things to have started breaking! No UK cars were built with a/c but mine is definitely 2 plug and I’m sure that both plugs were wired when I fitted the Climatronic, I just had to add extra wires to the smaller plug.

Just checked, no markings on the body but I've no idea if it is the original, car has 133k miles.

Broke up for Christmas last Thursday so got some time on my hands. The Corrado assumed the winter prep position again today!

You’d be a fool to sell that….

He still has the paper work for it he may be will to see if he can put the plate on retention and sell the plate I could ask him Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just got to keep plugging away. I was real down on it a few weeks back, but knew there were better days ahead. Sounds like you have your hands full with your cars already ? Weighed up selling it and procuring a Volvo estate. I just couldn’t psychologically open up the life change that such a purchase would entail. My attention now moves towards getting the VR6 running. ho hum, out of the frying pan etc etc

VSR on the left and shrick on the right - I sold a shrick last year and it fetched 1500 and sold behind closed doors - vsr can expect to pay over double then a schrick but rarely come up for sale . Schrick come up at least a few times a year - vsr probs looking at 1 every few years . Last shrick I saw sell was a breaker found one on a sharan vr6 . As mentioned above fb is your best bet - most important thing is to make sure the butterfly flap screws are secure or they could drop off and chew your engine .

TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.

Nice. Just as others have said, easy to live with, easy to work on (all that space in the engine bay is a blessing at times), but be cautious with parts (lights especially) as parts are getting hard. Fun to drive and rarer (by some way) than a Storm. What’s not to like 🙂. I had Estorils on my first Corrado. They had diamond cut faces ( they were an option at the time) and looked great. Having run mine everyday for ten years, I’d recommend changing the wiper arms/blades to aero type. As the standards are hopeless. Lupo GTI or Audi TT is the way to go. You may also benefit from an upgraded headlight loom as well. There’s loads of replacement/upgraded parts available. Lastly, stick the MPG setting on the clocks and see what you can get up to on a long drive. 47.7mpg before you ask 😎.

Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.

Aux. Pump is designed to run continuously whilst with the ignition on. 👍

Your boss looks the same as my momo one. The black wire with the female came with the boss and I made the blue wire to plug into the connections on my horn and boss metal disc as you have. As you can see the steering wheel it is for is also a momo. If you only have one terminal/wire coming out of each horn button they must be earthed through the horn buttons already to the steering wheel and you just need to plug those wires into your female black wire to give it it’s positive feed. test it with a battery and a couple of wires the wires coming from the steering wheel to positive through a test bulb/light and a negative wiring touching the steering wheel itself. Push the button and the test light should light up. My brass disk is also pushed in similar to yours

This was my method, tooling was supplied by Messrs Heath & Robinson! Getting the first side done took a couple of hours as I was trying every piece of packing for size to pull it in straight. Second one took a few minutes.

Not allot to report in respect of look and any real upgrades, more so of trying to sort out the gremlins in the car. Had an issue with the fuel pump after a long drive it would hum for a little while so managed to get a replacement one sorted so problem solved, but have had an idling issue for some time, and a random misfire. So today managed to eliminate what we think it is, quite confident its the ISV, i did replace it as well as the vacuum pipe on the TB, Throttle position sensor turns out the new ISV was faulty too, so trying to source one at the moment. Fitted a genuine coil pack and ht leads to the car and the misfire is for the moment no more. But got the wheels back from RustyRims and has done a cracking job.

Welcome to the forum and congrats! Looks tidy that. I do like a sherry pearl I've got to admit! 👍

Yay - we are up and running. I took the time to tidy up all the wires, ensured splices were covered and then I used that fabric type tape to wrap the wires up tidy. I have 3 issues to resolve... 1. I had a casulty in the fuel line going from accumulator to filter (the smaller lengthed one - believe to be PN 535 201 218 A - the black plastic shrink to fit pipe split. I have used some similar ish clear pipe my father in law has for his tractors to get it running but it seems to leak. Does anyone know of any options to buy replacements? Heritage do this but I'd rather not spend 85 quid on pipes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Line-Kit-K-Jetronic-Fuel-Filter-to-Accumulator-Stainless-Steel/392370035642?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D33aba946907c435a8867d21042a272a7%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D372721072798%26itm%3D392370035642%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 2. TI am really struggling remounting the underbody pump unit to the car. I've bent the metal clips that locate around the rubbers to a 90 degree angle thinking I'd bend them back into place once pump assembly is mounted but struggling to get the clips bent over the thread and bolt on top. Is there a better way!? 3. And lastly my fuel and coolant gauge doesn't work. I dont know if they ever worked or if it's something I disconnected when sorting wires out. I did see the fuel gauge reading more than full whilst messing about getting the pumps to work. Does anyone know which colour wires relate in the fuse box area, if any at all? The rest of the dash and electrics (spoiler, lights etc) are working well. Here's a couple of vids of the car. Headphones work best!

Done some digging and found the info and pics - sharing for others: Generally - always use wood or some rubber on top of jacks and axle stands - hockey putt or old suspension top mount. These are the jacking points. Best to not use a trolley jack on the seems. Either use the 2nd pic or some wood behind the seems in the green areas to jack: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95876[/ATTACH] When jacking the the front use the green bolt or around it if also using it to support on axle stands: [ATTACH=CONFIG]95879[/ATTACH] Alternatively you can use the rear of the front sub frame, but my jack does't easily reach that far. [ATTACH=CONFIG]95882[/ATTACH]

can I ask why were supporting ebay. the majority of people wanting the calendar are either on here or the CCGB webpage / face book page.... id rather the CCGB have the ebay fees in their yearly accounts. I will take a look tomorrow on the 8th.

I have one if you are still looking?

Thank you Jim for the recommendation [emoji106] We are VW Audi Specialists based in Littlehampton West Sussex. All models of Corrado are a house speciality within our passion for all aspects of the VAG brand. We have worked with the G60 in particular since 1992 and offer all manner of works including, G charger rebuilds and Stage modifications. Please give us a call at our workshops to discuss your requirements, as it will be our pleasure to get your Dad's Corrado G60 roadworthy and ready in time for his birthday. Contact John at JMR Ltd 01903718684 I look forward to hearing from you. http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk Facebook, John Mitchell Racing

Corrado vr6 are 5x100 so in order to fit those wheels you would need adapters 5x100 to 5x120

That's gonna be a sod to repair.. That bit rarely breaks, it's always the 'finger/plunger' that snaps. The main problem is that it has a pressed in pin that's bigger than the other, smaller pins that secure the finger bit that opens the lock, which means that it's a sod to drill out and then secure it back in. I've done one or two but after a bit, the pin always backs out again leaving you as you were before.. I've got a few spare if you want to try and repair the handle, let me know and i'll pop one in the post. Almost forgot a very important bit, always grease the components throughly and make sure that the components move freely without any tight spots, some of those repair kits available on the net are utter crap. Also make sure that the door itself doesn't shut too tightly as this will also strain the mechanism alot, loosen the striker if ness.

It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.

Nice,welcome :)

PM'd

Just having a look at the forum for old times sake. Not sure if you still have my old Corrado? If you do, the missing knob on the driver's seat you asked about is not a lumbar support, I think it is where a rather annoying arm rest used to be. I took it off as it just got in the way. It went with the car with all the other spare parts to the bloke I sold it to. Hope that helps solve the mystery?

Hi guys, I'm from Ireland but now living in Cape Town, South Africa. Corrados are VERY rare cars over here (I have seen 2 in 11 years and now own one of them!) so getting a one owner G60 was pretty sweet. Actually the PO broke down in front of me and I stopped to help, we got chatting and next thing you know I'd bought the car! It needs ALOT of love but I've got all the mechanical bits sorted, now it's just the interior and paint to sort out. Cheers Joe

Top tip Steve - thank you! Will order from there, rather than ECP then as it'll come out much cheaper. Though I'm now a little more less convinced it's the MAF. I took the car out this evening and prior to starting it up, pulled the MAF and it started at quite high revs (around 1200) and I could hear that same occasional pop / misfire once every couple of seconds. I reconnected the MAF and the revs came down a little but otherwise seemed the same. I decided enough of nannying the car tonight and did take it for a bit of a thrash without really wringing it's neck and it drove great - the engine pulls extremely well at all revs.. low down and higher up, though I never really took it past 5000RPM. Sounded lovely on song too - had forgotten just how good the VR6 sounds. There's definitely something not 100% and sure it's electrical rather than anything more sinister. It's just this noticeable, very slight misfire at idle, and also I find at lower revs and part throttle when driving at say 30MPH it feels a bit like.. not comfortable.. very slightly hesitant and a touch jumpy.. like it wants you to either be on the throttle or off the throttle and part throttle seems difficult for the car somehow? And lastly.. idle.. seems to take a LONG time to settle down to the lower VR6 idle speed of 650RPM.. it won't do it until the car is fully warmed up, and instead runs on a faster idle. And then when it has settled down to the correct idle, despite the revs being locked solid where they should be there's quite a lot of vibration into the cabin - like it 'feels' like the engine is misfiring a bit and you can feel it kicking through into the cabin. Will be interesting to stick the loan coil pack on and see if that improves how it feels. It does have this vague whiff of coil pack about it. Sorry for rambling on - just now having done the engine work, I'm on a bit of a crusade (or should that be folly!!) to sort out all the gremlins on the old girl and get her ship shape :)

Pics might be in wrong order, just tried to link them all again, in a rush :lol:

DavyDave: I've got a complete adjustable column plus the surround going spare - yours for nowt if you want it. Whereabouts are you? [edit: or accept Henny's offer! Don't mind either way, just drop me a PM if you want it.]

The set-up is described in the Bentley manual - if you haven't got it, I'll scan the relevant page and send it (assuming I can work out how to attach it to the reply !!). I had precisely the same problem and symptoms of jerky off-throttle slow running. This is what I did; 1. Replaced throttle damper and set it up as per Bentley. This made some difference. 2. Cleaned out ISV and made sure there were no air leaks on induction side. 3. Did a basic settings to ensure that the throttle position sensor was coordinated with the ECU. This helped too, but not completely. 4. Got a good second-hand MAF; (they are not necessarily goood just because the engine doesn't stall if you disconnect it at idle.) Make sure the connector and the platinum wire are clean, and check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. This was a further improvement, but still had occasional stalling when de-clutching from over run conditions (like throttle closed going downhill). 5. Disconnect 42 pin connector on the side of the cylinder head (with the ignition OFF !!), clean pins and socket with contact cleaner and re-seat the connector. This significantly improved idle and general running. The electrics for all the injectors and for the ISV go through here so any bad connections are bad news. 6. Had all injectors ultrasonically cleaned and filters replaced. FINALLY !! Perfect idle, no stalling, greatly improved starting and fuel economy. For good measure also put in a new set of standard issue NGK spark plugs. The difference is like night and day - it will trickle through traffic in 4th gear with no snatching and surging and, best of all, no stalling at junctions. Try these. In the meantime, I'll try to remember to send you the damper set-up procedure RB

Foglights- Lever out the indicator from one side and remove. Undo the four screws now showing and carefully wiggle free. Now you can undo the cable from the back of the unit. You should be able to change the bulbs now.

what year and flavour is it??

Do a trackday, legalise mo fo

This is one for Andi i guess? There is a small icon, sometimes green under the username status eg Donator/Super Moderator etc Some only say the username when you hover over it.......BUT some people are either on a distinguished road or an unknown quantity So what is it? :scratch:

My corrado has sat in the garage since about october time, its not been started since, the battery went flat so i removed that and have been charging it. Its been there through all that really cold weather we had. Should i just put battery back in and attempt to turn it over or should there be anything else i check out 1st? just don't wanna break it

Your car looks really nice mate