Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Thanks for all your kind words. Yes totally agree one would be crazy to think if you nut and bolt you will get your money back- I expect if these two corrado to out live many of us on here now if garaged and taken care of- all the salt and daily driving is that kills them- in fact renovation can be pulling back the clock of 25 years use . Im 100 percent moving onto buying a car restored or in low mileage - summer salt free car- just makes easier ownership and to come out of them- I just like the buzz of trying new cars so need to buy my cars renovation free in the future- easy to sell on and use straight away and not be double figures out of of pocket if i sell. I might well get a 16v runabout in a couple of years and enjoy if for its worts and have a comprehensive brake down cover. I will still be about though guys dont worry.
  7. 1 point
    He still has the paper work for it he may be will to see if he can put the plate on retention and sell the plate I could ask him Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 1 point
    Sad ending, but time for a new relationship and get yourself another
  9. 1 point
    Just got to keep plugging away. I was real down on it a few weeks back, but knew there were better days ahead. Sounds like you have your hands full with your cars already ? Weighed up selling it and procuring a Volvo estate. I just couldn’t psychologically open up the life change that such a purchase would entail. My attention now moves towards getting the VR6 running. ho hum, out of the frying pan etc etc
  10. 1 point
    Looks good now, fingers crossed for you 🤞
  11. 1 point
    Look in the wiki here - there’s a full reset procedure, a bit more involved that’s just disconnecting the battery. Did you check for any vacuum leaks anywhere? Even a small leak can affect idle - you can get a vac gauge to put inline with a t-piece to test. Could also be a faulty MAF reading - do you have access to VCDS and a test lead to check out all the signals?
  12. 1 point
    I’ve got to say that your reply was pure quality. It’s still tickling me now
  13. 1 point
    YU is coming up blank on that site now for some reason, but that's the stock beige colour as in the photo. I bought my dye from here; https://www.liquidleather.co.uk/leather-dyes-c48/dyes-c91/leather-dye-1l-p144 In the options for checkout, it'll ask for the manufacturer and colour code. They have it on file so are able to mix it without you having to send something for them to match the colour against.
  14. 1 point
    Just to add... on the fuel pump relay, pin 85 connects to pin3 on connector G1 (the trigger signal) and in turn this goes to pin3 on the ECU. This trigger is a negative signal, so to test you need to put your 12v multi meter or your LED testers black probe on pin 3 of connector G1 and the your red probe to the switched live, you should also check ECU pin3 and a reading should only be available when your ignition key is turned. So pin3 at connector G1 or at ECU pin3 should NEVER be at +12
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Hi all. I'm still the owner of the vehicle. I have used It today! It has been exported to Spain as I've moved back in 2019,that is the reason why appears as sorn. The car still in very good condition as I keep It garaged over every winter and only use It when is dry & Sunny. Have a look yo the pictures, un one of them you can see the spanish registration plate. That's how the car looks at the moment. During my ownership I've fully restored the cream leather recaro, fitted original dash dials back, leather steering wheel, genuine bbs RS. On the exterior , Removed rear clear inpro tailights and fitted the original back, front 90mm spoiler , yellow high Beam bulbs covers and vr6 front badge. For the engine... Shrick manifold and remap at Stealth. The car had a couple of mechanical familiares but nothing mayor, thermostat housing crack, alternativa and adicional eléctric coolant pump had a leak. Next winter I'm planning to take engine out, subframe, wishbones, rear acle and get everything sandblasted and powercoated and fit everything back. Hope I'll update all the progress here, M660GGJ still Alive guys! Currently is showing 148k miles on the clock BEST regards Luis
  17. 1 point
    The fan controller controls 3 speeds. 1 & 2 from the rad switch and 3rd speed from the black sender in the thermostat housing. The fan control unit sends power to one of the three cables from the signal it gets. That’s why you can join the three wires together near the fan plug without getting current bleed going somewhere else that connects to the new fans. I use the two signals from the rad switch and the black switch unplugged so I can’t go over temp and bring that signal in. It would have easier and less complicated to just use the rad switch for just the first two signals direct from the fan switch like the Phenix fan set up. mine don’t change speed. the slim fan come on a 95 Celsius and both come on at 105 Celsius. that shroud seem basic for the money and the fans aren’t the best either. My bent plate cost £40 I think and I cut it out with a jigsaw. Look on the Spal fan website to determine fans and flow rates. it’s the fans, relays and wiring where the money is.
  18. 1 point
    Merry Christmas one and all.
  19. 1 point
    Something wrong there then, I’d put a proper fuse in and see if there is power to the switch. if the switch is goosed you can get one of these mk3 controllers, the switch is basically the same just upside down on the other side. I used one to fix mine. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/1h0820045c-fresh-air-and-heater-controls.html
  20. 1 point
    i hate them too! Mine are all nicely greased but the drivers side on seems to struggle in the middle for some reason. I would do the following: Pop off the white base rollers, clean and grease. Use a light grease Clean the centre channel on which the main slider slides. I would use either a heavy oil or again some light grease here Finally, make sure the two side channels are clear - use a piece of cloth to remove any loose debris. Clean and spray with a silicone spray. If its still the same, you'll prob need to take the motor mech out, clean it and grease it up again. Not fun. But hopefully the first few steps should sort it Hasan
  21. 1 point
    In between I also experimented with 3D printing. Especially for smaller parts 3D printing should be optimal. Unfortunately I had to realize that the quality is not good enough in my opinion. Therefore I stopped the production of some parts. Especially the clips of the speedometer are complicated to make. There are 3-4 different versions of these clips. It is almost impossible to make a universal version that fits all frames. (535858508 & 535858507) (535 827 769) Most materials used for 3D printing are simply too hard and brittle. Maybe it would be possible to assemble them once, but they would break at the latest when disassembling them.
  22. 1 point
    The part number suffix (letter) can change to indicate a later version or substitution. Hella are a good brand - chances are the VW one is made by them or by Bosch, so I wouldn't worry about quality. The relay can go bad over time - a good way to test this is to jumper the connection the relay makes with a short length of wire - this should run your pump directly. It's a fairly common relay and should be easy to source.
  23. 1 point
    You can buy it as the whole kit but not cheap. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/535845100-windscreen-moulding-trim-set-4-piece.html
  24. 1 point
    Mrs had a 2010 Tdi for 2.5 years, nothing but servicing and a pair of rear spring broken - got rid of it after the emissions upgrade due to poorer low throttle response and dpf regen too frequent imo. a lad at work also has a Tdi with 130k and had a bill of around 1200 for the last mot for rear suspension springs, bushes and the electronically adjustable Dampers - they warned him of the impending fate of the front for the next mot..... he’s getting rid of it. The mrs is now a Scirocco spotter, “Ohh my old car” every journey - it’s the only car she’s ever taken any notice of... “Saw a lovely purple one today, have you seen the grey one on the new estate”, follow by “When you going to get your shit cars off my patio”...
  25. 1 point
    As above, but one is on ebay in Sheffield 254653755202 item number
  26. 1 point
    Faulty crank sensor gives no spark and no fuel injected (dry plugs after cranking). try a different key?
  27. 1 point
    A nicely refurbished driver’s side handle ready to be fitted - hopefully everything works! In the past I've found that sometimes even a new striker won't actuate the tab inside the door to open the lock properly, because it can't reach - probably because the latch tab got bent over time. In this case you either need to bend it back slightly (very carefully as you need to go in through the hole for the handle in the door), or for those of us with kids, the little plunger dispensers that come with a Calpol or Nurofen bottle are perfect to cut to size, and fit nicely over the striker when you wrap a little fabric tape around it.
  28. 1 point
    Yeah they are good lads and down to earth. not like these spoilt kids like Smee with rich parents and them sort of car youtube channels.
  29. 1 point
    Pendine Sands! No wonder they rusted away!
  30. 1 point
    Good work guys. Great experience with your renewals team just. Firstly very open and honest and secondly, matching last year's quote, which will do me for another year at least. Fills me with the confidence that should a need to claim ever arise, you'll look after me in the same manner. Thanks, Waz
  31. 1 point
    I'm very new to the scene as just been able to get to the age where I can insure my valver for a sorta reasonable price, I've paid my subscription to the CCGB and like the members that we have, also on the Corrado forum too. I'm sad to see this situation, as I'd love to get going to some meets and see some cool cars and being able to show my car too (as you lot are the only ones that will appreciate it lol). Problem is as I suppose it is with most members is getting the cars to shows, being the drive or the fact that the car has broke again. I'm in that boat unfortunately, lots of work to do and recovering from a motorbike accident doesn't help either. I like the CCGB site but I do spend most of my time on here, but I do find I struggle to interpret the calendar on the CCGB website and how I'm able to sign up to events (probably it's very simple, just me being an idiot). And again, I'm from Oxford ways, and some shows will be a struggle to get too but you can't really seem to help that as we have members all over the place. And Jim as for the magazine I didn't even know you had one! I'd be very interested to have a read and also add some content to help out. Hopefully once I'm a bit more mobile I'd like to do my car up and I'm even going down the air ride route so some members might be interested.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Hi there I have one but would need to check wiring can do so at weekend if you haven't been sorted by then
  34. 1 point
    After what feels like forever, I have some progress (touch wood!)... The newly rebuilt charger from Only Charged Dubs arrived yesterday so it was all hands to the pump to get it fitted before the weekend. Got the old one removed (again) and then fitted the new one, fitted the new oil feed and return pipes and carried out an engine flush and oil change with the correct grade of oil 10w40 Semi Synthetic. Primed the new charger as per the instructions, and then let the car idle and got the engine up to temperature to check for leaks etc. After a few adjustments, it was started again and after a few minutes I slowly increased the revs from idle upto 1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2000rpm and then 2200rpm when I heard what can only be described as a scary noise! Almost like a buzzing from the charger area. Checked the oil feed pipe, yep plenty of oil in there. By this time, it was getting late and I'd had enough for one evening, so I packed everything away and thought I'd tackle it again in the morning with after some sleep... Saturday morning and I started the car up and again let it idle up to temperature, another quick check in the daytime for leaks was also done. Increased the revs as I had done the previous day and the noise returned. I phoned OCD and spoke to Matt who said that you can sometimes get noises from the chargers after a rebuild, and to take the car for a drive and see how I got on, which I did. At first the noise remained, and I was ready to admit defeat when after a longer drive at a constant RPM, the noise got quieter! I carried on driving, and the more I was driving the better the noise got! Now I'm not sure if this is normal, or anyone has come across this before (would be good to hear if anyone has), but long story short I have covered 80 miles today with varying loads whilst keeping the RPM under 3000RPM as per the instructions for running in, and the noise has gone completely and I'm just left with the hollow G60 noise (hard to describe) that from what I can work out, is normal. So fingers crossed all is good now, and I can start to enjoy Corrado ownership again! I'm guessing that the oil just needed to get to all the right places within the charger and driving it more obviously got the lubrication to where it needed to go, and perhaps it was a slightly dry seal thats now been lubricated? Who know's I'm not that clued up on G-Laders but as long as that noise stays away and the boost stays within the engine then I'm happy!
  35. 1 point
    that g60's was a good deal, i love my mk1 golfs and remember seeing mass's up for sale on Facebook, lovely editions, but still nowt like driving the corrado....whats your thoughts mass? p3rks good luck with the hunt
  36. 1 point
    Also available at eurocarparts, also ATE so oem http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-hydraulics/other-brake-hydraulics/?130440270&1&7f5ca990775c260367ddb74d4ec0c04f1e7022b2&000417
  37. 1 point
    Welcome Chris, good to see you over here! :thumbleft: Cracking car in one of the best colours - you will love it! I'm certainly missing mine the more I see yours! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?89710-Chopped-in-my-2-0-16v-Corrado-today As mentioned on FB, you just have to fit a short-shift if Dave can knock you one up? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?61985-Corrado-Short-Shifter&highlight=short+shift You may have noticed the long throw on the gearstick (assuming one isn't fitted already?)It makes the change so much nicer and not too short like some kits. Looking forward to seeing you add your 'touch' to this one. Enjoy it ;)
  38. 1 point
    You will require a large spline boss for a '92 car, VW went from small to large spline across the range in 1990. Actually, all they did was to fit a sleeve to the small spline steering column which is removable with a puller. A Momo wheel will sit slightly closer to you but it will only be 'slightly'. An answer might be having a spacer fitted between the wheel and the boss if it really bugs you. If you do an e-bay search for 'Momo steering wheel boss kit spacer' you will find lots in different thicknesses.
  39. 1 point
    The general rule usually is that if there is no history then just get it done for peace of mind. Mine is well overdue, only boosting half a bar via a gauge (mfa readings aren't always accurate. Although i'm capable of doing it myself i'd rather have the documentation.
  40. 1 point
    Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you
  41. 1 point
    T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - G1/10 - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - G1/3 - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - G2/9 - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - !!!! - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - W1 - W1 - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - ! - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port -as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin black connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - !!! - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - !!!! - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - !!!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - !!! - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - Z1 - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - !!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - ! - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. so thats how mine is wired up as i write this and doesnt fire so just looking at this i think i need to read threads right first time haha o and it might be good to have a write up from the VR6 to 24V side if this a little over whelming so G1 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - T6 brown connector/2 + T10 orange connector/3 4 - 5 - T14a/9 (14 pin black connector) 6 - 7 - 8 - T6 brown/5 + T6 brown/6 9 - 10 - T6 brown/1 11 - 12 - T10 orange/9 G2 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - T6 brown/4 10 - 11 - 12 - Z1 power - T14a/5 + T14a/6 earth - T14a/9 well hope this helps people help me haha any clues in the right direction would be much appreciated cheers John
  42. 1 point
    I think it's also worth adding that engine work aside, cosmetically this car is superb. The paint is in brilliant condition the whole way round. To build a Corrado to this condition would cost you far more, so should be a no brainer for anyone consider going for a VR6 Turbo. I've said it several times already, but its a real shame you're moving on Dave.
  43. 1 point
    It's your "reputation" which is affected by pressing the up/down error in the bottom bar below someone's post.
  44. 1 point
    Yes, I thought you wanted the base ! That's why I posted the above link. You will find most aerial's will fit
  45. 1 point
    Ok buddy, no problem. Let me know which light and I'll knock a bit off the total price for buying more than one item. I'll let you know a sensible postage price also. Hi Gaz, Can you let me know what the bolt looks like and I'll have a dig around for them. Noted also about the clocks, I'll let you know if Ste doesn't have them. Always willing to do deals on multiple purchases guys or make offers if the price set is wrong.
  46. 1 point
    I'm still looking for a set. If the group buy comes off, particularly if it happens through Stealth, then that makes a lot of sense to me.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Appreciated guys! Was one of the things i wasnt 100% on first doing the chains but this will be my second time doing a set so should be no bother now and have the cam shaft locking tool for it now. Not too bad once you actually get to them to fit the new ones! Havent got a thread on DW sadly but will happily post up the product etc i use. Will be giving it a full going over again next weekend hopefully once iv done the messy stuff and will do a sort of right up for that as should be spending a good while on it. New header tank with cap was £27 im sure bud but remember all the stuff i buys at trade price,but shouldnt be much more. Did it in my last vr6,just makes the bay that little bit cleaner. Will keep it updated. Shall have the camera on the go tomorrow.
  50. 1 point
    Yes there is a small plastic 10mm nut to undo which is easy enough to get to, I found that sliding the power steering reservoir out of the way helped things. You got another VR now then Adam?
×
×
  • Create New...