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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126331388530?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S_62K1mTR2C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=SuQ1hX6ZSQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Seems a good price for a genuine set of mats. 3 available. I have rubbers so am torn between the two...

I think it is a mixture of factors too. I've done more testing and whilst it is good 5-10-20 mins after, so far more useable, but if i leave it for 30/40 mins I get the same problem. It always starts but interesting how the time frames have shifted. Perhaps points to time worn compenents. Thinking back to my white car, although fault seemingly solved it did have a few occassions where it would crank longer than expected though more than 9 our of 10 times it was fine.

Sorry Chiswick, my bad memory! Haha yup I'll pop over and get them, if they're at the same price 😉 Post up some pics of your car whenever you have time Hasan

I asked in VWVortex like Popeye775 said and the first answer said yes it is factory.

Check the blue/white wire in the radio loom - it is probably connected wrong or earthing against something randomly. It should only be connected if you have a radio that support speed dependent volume control (GALA) and not many do. Otherwise, the spoiler control module may be at fault, and worth swapping out with one that is known to work.

Hello Everyone, A long standing school friend of mine has owned a VR6 for many years and I always loved the sound of the engine. Late last year I decided to take the plunge myself and I am now the owner of a VR6 Storm - Mystic Blue. Since there is a Corrado Forum sticker on the wondow, I suspect there are some members of the Forum who might recognise the car? The engine pulls really well but, unsurprisingly, the car has a number of issues that need sorting out and the knowledge on this Forum is going to be a very valuable resource! Although I have done a lot of my own mechanics over the years I currently only have a single garage which is a bit too tight for working on the car... so my first question to the Forum is does anyone know of a garage/mechanic who know the Corrado located in Suffolk or Essex (I live near Ipswich). If not I suppose I will have to make use of the Summer weather to do some jobs outside (at least I have plent of space on the drive !) My second question is regarding the engine started getting quite hot this week. When I checked the coolant level it was a tiny bit below the minimum level, but topping it up has made no difference. The strange thing is when I switch the ignition off the radiator fans start up, but when I switch the ignition on or start the car the fans are no longer running. Wonder if this is a common/known issue? However since it is getting hot even when crusing in top gear at 60 when I assumne the fans should not be needed would I be righ in suspecting the thermostat is not openeing fully? This VR6 is by no means concours but it is in my opinion in too good condition to break so I am determined to fix the mechanical issues first and then sort out the paintwork. I look forward to getting to know everyone Pete

Thanks, I got a cutting of a bumper and made a small patch to block the hole, i plastic welded it with a soldering iron from the back then filled the bumper. It was then re-sprayed. There are some pictures on page 3 👍

. I need to stop chasing perfection and just enjoy it for what it is. That right there is what it’s all about. My wife said this with a smirk 11 years ago “ it’ll never be finished “ but I don’t care as long as I can use and enjoy it most of the time. There is always something I’ve got to look at but it doesn’t have to be perfect or I’ll be too frightened of anything happening to it, to use it.

We will post up what we find. BlackBerry it is 👌

I thought that might be yours that went up this weekend. It’s easier said than done, but if mines sending me over the edge I leave it alone for a few weeks to build up enthusiasm and it’s always better to step back sometimes when you are chasing issues. When you come back to it you might look at the problem from a different angle or think of something you’ve missed which generally works out for me. Good luck either way

No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!

Thanks got mine today best quality loom available and a good price.

Welcome Jensen! I have just returned onto the forum and also looking forward to some shows and cruises this year with likeminded members based around the East Midlands! Finally finished my restoration late last year! Late 95 conversion also in black 😉

I'm sure Fuzz appreciated your input Kip! Plus seeing your absolutely astounding car would give the guys a target

good find m8 fastest owned - probably my modified VR but i think my modified & half stripped R53 supercharged mini would give it a run for its money. they both produce noise induced grins time after time! fastest ive been in - a few contenders; the nissan GTR i drove was crazy but then my old boss took me out in his modded porsche GT3, which covered ground so quickly it was incredible most interesting is a tough one - i still remember a ride in a 308 ferrari when i was about 10, had some great times in my uncles VW camper van but id go with my dads porsche 911 3.0 SC targa

Nice. Just as others have said, easy to live with, easy to work on (all that space in the engine bay is a blessing at times), but be cautious with parts (lights especially) as parts are getting hard. Fun to drive and rarer (by some way) than a Storm. What’s not to like 🙂. I had Estorils on my first Corrado. They had diamond cut faces ( they were an option at the time) and looked great. Having run mine everyday for ten years, I’d recommend changing the wiper arms/blades to aero type. As the standards are hopeless. Lupo GTI or Audi TT is the way to go. You may also benefit from an upgraded headlight loom as well. There’s loads of replacement/upgraded parts available. Lastly, stick the MPG setting on the clocks and see what you can get up to on a long drive. 47.7mpg before you ask 😎.

The current wheels suit the car imo

Guarantee it’s the slave

Aux. Pump is designed to run continuously whilst with the ignition on. 👍

The slims aren’t massively better but quieter, it’s also that with them being new they should be more reliable. As you know I have a turbo fitted and as such more heat in the bay and a big fat intercooler infront of the radiator doesn’t help either, the fans were coming on a fair bit. I read up on spal fans and their abilities and went for 12” fans the best slim and a very powerful not so slim. This set up really does draw a lot of air when both are on. My cooling is definitely better than before and hopefully because it’s new it won’t matter how often it comes on. If new OE fans were available off the shelf I might have stuck to stock but I think this set up works well for the heat I’ve got to get rid of in slow moving traffic on a hot day. Having said all that my previous Corrado was a stock set up and I never really had problems with that, over 20k miles but I did change the thermostat, housing and sensors early on and the correct coolant with not much water. But these days the fans are nearly 30 years old so it’s a problem you might have to solve one day anyway. My 12” set up when nearly finished. It does fit but that’s about as big as you can go.

It's a tick box in your notification settings.

This is why deals should be done in plain sight on the forum, then go to PMs for payment and addresses etc

Something wrong there then, I’d put a proper fuse in and see if there is power to the switch. if the switch is goosed you can get one of these mk3 controllers, the switch is basically the same just upside down on the other side. I used one to fix mine. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/1h0820045c-fresh-air-and-heater-controls.html

This is the Gamma IV, same as what Keyo has above. This has some nice features, 4x20w, CD changer control, greem dimmable lights, code protection and red anti-theft LED, telephone mute, speed dependent volume control (GALA) when connected to the the blue/white speed sensor signal and can be retrofitted with aux in, bluetooth or iPod adapter using the CD changer inputs - there's even a guy in Germany who retrofits a hardwired aux in cable with 3.5mm jack and Bluetooth 5.0 module for a pretty penny, which means you can retain the CD changer. The cassette flap makes it a lot less attractive to thieves than a fancier unit - and you can even play you Awesome Mix Vol. 1! There is an identical looking radio with blue/red illumination rather than the original green, so be careful to check this when buying.

Dox is the man for getting the background on any car!

Looks like the seller of the car has carried out some great renovation work to the car- pretty sure I can see a new rad in there. Looks like the paint if fresh to - I would say they have spent a lot of money on this car at least 7k plus/

Yay - we are up and running. I took the time to tidy up all the wires, ensured splices were covered and then I used that fabric type tape to wrap the wires up tidy. I have 3 issues to resolve... 1. I had a casulty in the fuel line going from accumulator to filter (the smaller lengthed one - believe to be PN 535 201 218 A - the black plastic shrink to fit pipe split. I have used some similar ish clear pipe my father in law has for his tractors to get it running but it seems to leak. Does anyone know of any options to buy replacements? Heritage do this but I'd rather not spend 85 quid on pipes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Line-Kit-K-Jetronic-Fuel-Filter-to-Accumulator-Stainless-Steel/392370035642?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D33aba946907c435a8867d21042a272a7%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D372721072798%26itm%3D392370035642%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 2. TI am really struggling remounting the underbody pump unit to the car. I've bent the metal clips that locate around the rubbers to a 90 degree angle thinking I'd bend them back into place once pump assembly is mounted but struggling to get the clips bent over the thread and bolt on top. Is there a better way!? 3. And lastly my fuel and coolant gauge doesn't work. I dont know if they ever worked or if it's something I disconnected when sorting wires out. I did see the fuel gauge reading more than full whilst messing about getting the pumps to work. Does anyone know which colour wires relate in the fuse box area, if any at all? The rest of the dash and electrics (spoiler, lights etc) are working well. Here's a couple of vids of the car. Headphones work best!

All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado. Just kidding. Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems. Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure. The main grounds to check or replace are: 1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic) 2: transmission bolt to frame 3: intake manifold to firewall 4: firewall to hood hinge 5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down. Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation. All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.

The best thing to do chap is put the part number on ebay or google and see what manufactures come up . I hate Topran because I had an oil cooler fail after 500 miles use and had to flush out the whole system- the internal cooler wept oil into the hoses- cured with a Hella cooler from Murrays direct on ebay . Also I see Heritage sell a JP fuel pump for a VR for £300 and something which is the incorrect bar and also more than a stock VDO pump- I don't take anything for granted they offer or say and have a few run ins and told the sales person wrong you can get it- thats is incorrect your not reading the diagram correctly etc - embarrassing to be honest. P,s the owner of VW International if you have an issue can take it personally they are only a small business.

Yeah I do. I love cleaning my balls and then whacking them really hard.

They do crop up every now and again. You're looking at around £750-850 for a full leather interior inc door cards. I too was looking for a leather interior and a couple have come up over the last year to give you an idea. I've decided against leather though as I don't have air-conditioning and used to own a car with leather without air-con and it was a sticky sweat fest in summer! Instead, and sharing for options yourself, I thought I'd get my cloth recovered with some plaid/tartan trim or something period correct in the centres and go leather on the side bolsters. Other alternatives can be to fit Audi TT fron seats (c £150) but some fabrication is needed. Or source some recaro's from another car (c £200-300) and trim and fabricate a base. Or source some real Corrado recaro's but they are £1500-2000 which is just plain redicilous given the value of the Corrado compared to other modern classics these other recoro's come out of.

Only just noticed this thread, the linkage on my wife's corrado went about a year ago and I used one of the clips that you posted above wipers still work great and the car gets used daily

I had a similar problem when I got my kr.did a oil pressure test and it was good . I just replaced both pressure switches and the problem disappeared. Not sure if your part numbers are correct but mine had a white switch and a blue/brown switch also.

get yourself on the suppliers thread - Daves16v does a handle repair kit I currently have them on both of the VR handles & will buy some for the valver just in case, sorry for when they go lol

After what feels like forever, I have some progress (touch wood!)... The newly rebuilt charger from Only Charged Dubs arrived yesterday so it was all hands to the pump to get it fitted before the weekend. Got the old one removed (again) and then fitted the new one, fitted the new oil feed and return pipes and carried out an engine flush and oil change with the correct grade of oil 10w40 Semi Synthetic. Primed the new charger as per the instructions, and then let the car idle and got the engine up to temperature to check for leaks etc. After a few adjustments, it was started again and after a few minutes I slowly increased the revs from idle upto 1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2000rpm and then 2200rpm when I heard what can only be described as a scary noise! Almost like a buzzing from the charger area. Checked the oil feed pipe, yep plenty of oil in there. By this time, it was getting late and I'd had enough for one evening, so I packed everything away and thought I'd tackle it again in the morning with after some sleep... Saturday morning and I started the car up and again let it idle up to temperature, another quick check in the daytime for leaks was also done. Increased the revs as I had done the previous day and the noise returned. I phoned OCD and spoke to Matt who said that you can sometimes get noises from the chargers after a rebuild, and to take the car for a drive and see how I got on, which I did. At first the noise remained, and I was ready to admit defeat when after a longer drive at a constant RPM, the noise got quieter! I carried on driving, and the more I was driving the better the noise got! Now I'm not sure if this is normal, or anyone has come across this before (would be good to hear if anyone has), but long story short I have covered 80 miles today with varying loads whilst keeping the RPM under 3000RPM as per the instructions for running in, and the noise has gone completely and I'm just left with the hollow G60 noise (hard to describe) that from what I can work out, is normal. So fingers crossed all is good now, and I can start to enjoy Corrado ownership again! I'm guessing that the oil just needed to get to all the right places within the charger and driving it more obviously got the lubrication to where it needed to go, and perhaps it was a slightly dry seal thats now been lubricated? Who know's I'm not that clued up on G-Laders but as long as that noise stays away and the boost stays within the engine then I'm happy!

You bring up a very good point (PCD) and one which I had overlooked! :lol:

Did mine recently in light gloss grey. They won't go rusty, keep themselves clean, and look almost original (they don't scream at you that they've been painted- so probably not what you had in mind).

Dave vw still got roll bar vw bones no late head lights corradorestorer pmd vr pete ill get pic tommorw

im pretty sure you guys arnt into mens baps receiving meat either! may as well have a sneaky rasher if you're gonna watch that!

Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.

Already well on the case with the fuel filler modification, think I mentioned it in the first post when I outlined the plans. The 1Z doesn't have an in-tank fuel pump at all, the engine driven injector pump acts as the lift pump on its own but I'm going to retain the 8V in-tank pump anyway. I've devised a modification to the fuel lines to allow any excess fuel to return to the tank before it reaches the injector pump (basically a stepped 'H' fitting in the feed and return lines). I'll describe it better once I've built it :) Supercharged - I'd be really interested in seeing some pictures of your TDi if at all possible? Cheers Tom

Appreciated guys! Was one of the things i wasnt 100% on first doing the chains but this will be my second time doing a set so should be no bother now and have the cam shaft locking tool for it now. Not too bad once you actually get to them to fit the new ones! Havent got a thread on DW sadly but will happily post up the product etc i use. Will be giving it a full going over again next weekend hopefully once iv done the messy stuff and will do a sort of right up for that as should be spending a good while on it. New header tank with cap was £27 im sure bud but remember all the stuff i buys at trade price,but shouldnt be much more. Did it in my last vr6,just makes the bay that little bit cleaner. Will keep it updated. Shall have the camera on the go tomorrow.

The car is a 1995 VR6 I've done some searching around on the forum and learnt a lot - but i just want to get some views before i invest in a new fuel pump. Here's a detailed description of the issue - some of these points may be red herrings: - Unfortunately allowed the fuel level to get very low then filled up with a full tank of BP unleaded [normally i only use optimax] - 11 miles later whilst driving on the motorway at about 70mph the car started to lose power, then was jerking around like a kangaroo! Pulled the car on to the hard shoulder - turned it off and on again and then it seemed better. - Drove another 100 miles that day, mainly motorway driving with slight hesitation esp when starting in first gear and also with low revs in second gear - car pulled and ran fine for most of the journey. - My friend who was in the car during all this said he'd had the same issue on his golf 16v and injector cleaner had helped. - Next day replaced the fuel filter and tried again - still serious hesitation to the point of almost stalling when pulling away. Once above 2500rpm power is good. - Then added injector cleaner which made about a 50% improvement with this issue - hesitation felt far less. But still present - also at high revs (4000/4500rpm) in 4/5th hesitation is felt. I think its the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank getting in to the fuel system. I had hoped the cheaper options of new fuel filter and injector cleaner would cure it - but its still there. Would adding injector cleaner again to the next tank full be advisable? Or is it bad to use it too often? Does it sound like the fuel pump is on its way out? Is there anyway to diagnose this before i pay for the fuel pump to be replaced? Could it be something else such as spark plugs? Any help appreciated :roll: I should add that the idle is very stable and smooth - it idles happily at about 600rpm and also the car fires first time without issue.