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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Not for me mate, but a very kind gesture 👍
  7. 1 point
    It does look a clean looked after car. As Keyo says bridge the rad switch plug to bring the fans on if they don’t or one doesn’t there an issue with a relay unless he’s wired direct off of the existing fan plug. Do the above test and take some photos of the wiring, there’s a few ways he could have wired it up. When you press the override switch what happens then, do they both come on? You should be able to get both fans on without the ignition on as well simulating after run by bridging the rad sender plug.
  8. 1 point
    That is one great looking car and with a lot of nice goodies, not much it doesnt have. Great cars are worth paying for. Just a few niggles to sort out, but there is always something that is needed with all our cars Well done in getting her 👍
  9. 1 point
    Few updates Bought a facia for the centre gauges to make it look better, its 3d printed Glued the LCD mount to the back Filling the face to make it smoother Click on picture below to se the video Video Sprayed the bonnet, needs some flatting now Then fitted this centre visor and today, the screen got fitted Still waiting for the DVLA to update my V5, only been 9 weeks so far, when I called they said it may take another 3 weeks which is a shame as I wanted to take it to VW Whitenoise 😞
  10. 1 point
    Says sold- but if you want similar I have a set for sale; with or without hump in rear depending on whether your car is vr or 16v
  11. 1 point
    Hi all. I'm still the owner of the vehicle. I have used It today! It has been exported to Spain as I've moved back in 2019,that is the reason why appears as sorn. The car still in very good condition as I keep It garaged over every winter and only use It when is dry & Sunny. Have a look yo the pictures, un one of them you can see the spanish registration plate. That's how the car looks at the moment. During my ownership I've fully restored the cream leather recaro, fitted original dash dials back, leather steering wheel, genuine bbs RS. On the exterior , Removed rear clear inpro tailights and fitted the original back, front 90mm spoiler , yellow high Beam bulbs covers and vr6 front badge. For the engine... Shrick manifold and remap at Stealth. The car had a couple of mechanical familiares but nothing mayor, thermostat housing crack, alternativa and adicional eléctric coolant pump had a leak. Next winter I'm planning to take engine out, subframe, wishbones, rear acle and get everything sandblasted and powercoated and fit everything back. Hope I'll update all the progress here, M660GGJ still Alive guys! Currently is showing 148k miles on the clock BEST regards Luis
  12. 1 point
    This was my method, tooling was supplied by Messrs Heath & Robinson! Getting the first side done took a couple of hours as I was trying every piece of packing for size to pull it in straight. Second one took a few minutes.
  13. 1 point
    However, I think that the pictures show that I try to offer the best possible quality. And this brings us to the primary point of the thread. Many Corrado drivers are looking for centre console for the dashboard. We have already found a good solution for the LHD Corrados. (535 863 241 E) Many british Corrado drivers have asked if it is possible to produce this centre console for RHD Corrados as well. The part number for RHD should be 536 863 241 E. Correct? The basic question with such a complex part is of course how much demand there is. So I would like to ask you to estimate how many parts are needed at all. Greetings Chris
  14. 1 point
    Be concise and polite explaining the situation, obsolete / unobtainable in your country etc You never know your luck
  15. 1 point
    Yes I have many parts form a 2.0 A including the head +block + refurbished manifold + O2a gearbox with 16v gearing. upper and lower and many other parts . Engine came out of a Corrado a few weeks back and have a video of it running. I will send you an email with my contact details- based in the Midlands.
  16. 1 point
    Yeah I've had a similar issue on mine, first was my original fuel pipe clips underneath same as in your photo, were splitting and disintegrating due to being 20+ years old. Not sure if you'll need the white plastic fuel clip but just in case part numbers listed below. I think there's at least 3 listed on Etka. Most Corrado's have option (A) fitted I think, but the VR6 can also have option (C) fitted also. (A) Part number of fuel clip is 1H0 201 449 (clip can hold x4 = 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes) 1988 onwards, fitted to MK2/3/4/5/6 Golfs, Corrado's (B) Part number of fuel clip is 191 201 449 (clip can hold = x2 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes and x2 3/16 brake pipe. 1985 to roughly 1992 mainly for MK2 Golf. (C) Part number 1H0 201 449A (clip can hold up to = X3 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes. From 1992 onwards. Si
  17. 1 point
    Thanks, the guy i bought it off is a real character and an obsessive petrol head. Just to put it in perspective he had a Delorean with 4k on the clock sitting on a marble tiled turntable in his lounge. He sits in it sometimes to watch the telly. (cinema screen to me) Suggested to the misses that we could do something similar with the old Corrado but she was having none of it.
  18. 1 point
    As above, but one is on ebay in Sheffield 254653755202 item number
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Finally some pics of the Corrado!
  21. 1 point
    Hey Guys, I'm still knocking around, and today have been trialing a newer forum platform and trialing a migration. Once I am happy that its good enough to start on as a base, I'll read-only this and begin the real migration and transfer so there will be interuptions this week (hopefully it'll be more a you can see but can't interact). My short term plans are: 1. Read-only unless you are a member 2. Membership will be £15 a year 3. Wiki's will make a come back 4. I'm going to get some help in terms of moderators / admins 5. Considering working with CCGB - Need to reply to the owner 6. Tapatalk - I hate it, but I'll try to include it again and clean it up. Thats on day 1 anyway. I need a solid base with less issues before I start looking at new things!
  22. 1 point
    Hi all, I've been away from the forum for a number of years now after selling my last Rado. At the time, my wife and I (now ex-wife sadly, we even met here on the forum) found we couldn't have children, so opted to adopt a dog (less expensive than kids, so more money for cars). Sadly he wasn't too keen on being in the back of a Rado, and we didn't think it'd be fair dragging him along to meets etc, and trips to the Pod. So, we sold the Rado and bought a Land Rover. I'm now with someone else, expecting our second child. The current mrs isn't into the Landy and green laning, so I've been considering getting back to the Rado scene, as she's more likely to be persuaded into joining me on that front. Having come back to the forum, I thought it would be good to find out how my last ride is doing. We sold it to a fellow enthusiast (I think he was already a member here) who had plans for it (thankfully not like the muppet/con man that bought my 1.8 16v.......also a member on here sadly), and I'd love to see how it looks now. So, if you're the current owner of the Rado in the subject title, please feel free to post some photos on this thread, I miss the car and would love to see it again, even if just a photo or two.
  23. 1 point
    This. Still love my car(s), either running or not. But hells teeth, I’d give second thoughts to starting again. And I think that’s where a lot of the value is. Simply keeping one running is hard enough, finding parts and restoring one = serious hours searching for parts. Spending nearly a year trying to obtain a straight drivers scraper seal in fair condition, plus four months for head bolts and a brake compensator kind of knocks the shine off it a little. Hopefully it sells for strong money and makes the Corrado more visual to other petrol heads / collectors. That way we all benefit and with it more reason for manufacturers to provide greater part support.
  24. 1 point
    Only just noticed this thread, the linkage on my wife's corrado went about a year ago and I used one of the clips that you posted above wipers still work great and the car gets used daily
  25. 1 point
    Quoted for truth. I think of the almost entirely positive community we had here.. then I look at some of the garbage people post on Facebook and on YouTube comments, etc.. it's like a different world!
  26. 1 point
    Hi all! One month ago, at the age of 40, and dreaming at this car for 20 years or so, I had the joy of buying my dream car. Yes, it is only a 2L 8V, but I do not need the power of the VR6, I also own a Focus ST with 300+ BHP, so I do not miss the adrenaline, but I still miss the sound of a VR6. No problem. It is a Corrado, it is MINE, and it's pristine! (Except for the damn "wet back carpet when raining" issue that just happened 2 days ago, that is :bonk: and :scratch: me.. Otherwise, so far, it is a joy. It turns heads on the streets (almost nobody has a clue what car this is..) , it raises people's interest at car shows.. Nice to see that people still love this piece of engineering and history.. Too bad such cars are not built anymore. Even worse that the number of Corrados gets lower every year...
  27. 1 point
    Car looks sick bro! Love the colour aswell and the colour coded wheels!!! Looks spot on! is that a cheeky bench i spot in the back ground aswell? Home gym and corrado storage attached to each other. DREAM COME TRUE I envy that
  28. 1 point
    Well done corrado brother always nice to see rados up there Sent from my SM-G357FZ using Tapatalk
  29. 1 point
    that g60's was a good deal, i love my mk1 golfs and remember seeing mass's up for sale on Facebook, lovely editions, but still nowt like driving the corrado....whats your thoughts mass? p3rks good luck with the hunt
  30. 1 point
    Hello , thankyou for the kind comments. Yeah it is a great car, there are a good few rare parts on the car as you guys will know are expensive and hard to come by. And rightly so it has been on eBay 3 times, but no one has been serious or genuine in veiwing the car which I do find slightly odd. Perhaps it's just a bad time to sell.
  31. 1 point
    Did mine recently in light gloss grey. They won't go rusty, keep themselves clean, and look almost original (they don't scream at you that they've been painted- so probably not what you had in mind).
  32. 1 point
    Also available at eurocarparts, also ATE so oem http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-hydraulics/other-brake-hydraulics/?130440270&1&7f5ca990775c260367ddb74d4ec0c04f1e7022b2&000417
  33. 1 point
    i just tried to down load it to a stick...that link has been removed......however in hd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUOFMFKArl0 " Thank You very much indeed, loepan " ... I've just watched it and, like many others, I'm " chufti-ed " to bits !! and equally " Thank You very much too, kdub " for your really helpful gem of : AN EXCELLENT BIT OF SOFTWARE for grabbing youtube videos etc and allowing you to save them to your device. http://clipgrab.org Go to that link and select English as language. Then download the software (FREE). Now copy and paste the youtube address into the search bar and Grab Clip (Select mp4 Format). You will have in a few minutes the entire video saved to your hard drive for your viewing pleasure
  34. 1 point
    Nice looking car and even better mk1 in the background. Welcome
  35. 1 point
    Welcome Chris, good to see you over here! :thumbleft: Cracking car in one of the best colours - you will love it! I'm certainly missing mine the more I see yours! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?89710-Chopped-in-my-2-0-16v-Corrado-today As mentioned on FB, you just have to fit a short-shift if Dave can knock you one up? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?61985-Corrado-Short-Shifter&highlight=short+shift You may have noticed the long throw on the gearstick (assuming one isn't fitted already?)It makes the change so much nicer and not too short like some kits. Looking forward to seeing you add your 'touch' to this one. Enjoy it ;)
  36. 1 point
    Nice VR mate, love the colour, really suits the Corrado. Rog.
  37. 1 point
    Welcome. Do you still have a mk1.
  38. 1 point
    Oooh ! . Well I've had two in a month . I must be good at something then.
  39. 1 point
    Welcome, it looks great! Ian.
  40. 1 point
    It might be useful to remove the loose connector (again!), check for any arcing and perhaps some pitting of either the connector spades or the panel spades. Give them a clean to remove any oxidation, and refit.
  41. 1 point
    Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Real bummer that , and to top it off you have to pay to get it back! Glad she is fine apart from the hotwire damage .
  44. 1 point
    I can imagine toad walking into the room just as you finish that sentence :lol:
  45. 1 point
    Put a link up so to help people out in the future fella
  46. 1 point
    The set-up is described in the Bentley manual - if you haven't got it, I'll scan the relevant page and send it (assuming I can work out how to attach it to the reply !!). I had precisely the same problem and symptoms of jerky off-throttle slow running. This is what I did; 1. Replaced throttle damper and set it up as per Bentley. This made some difference. 2. Cleaned out ISV and made sure there were no air leaks on induction side. 3. Did a basic settings to ensure that the throttle position sensor was coordinated with the ECU. This helped too, but not completely. 4. Got a good second-hand MAF; (they are not necessarily goood just because the engine doesn't stall if you disconnect it at idle.) Make sure the connector and the platinum wire are clean, and check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. This was a further improvement, but still had occasional stalling when de-clutching from over run conditions (like throttle closed going downhill). 5. Disconnect 42 pin connector on the side of the cylinder head (with the ignition OFF !!), clean pins and socket with contact cleaner and re-seat the connector. This significantly improved idle and general running. The electrics for all the injectors and for the ISV go through here so any bad connections are bad news. 6. Had all injectors ultrasonically cleaned and filters replaced. FINALLY !! Perfect idle, no stalling, greatly improved starting and fuel economy. For good measure also put in a new set of standard issue NGK spark plugs. The difference is like night and day - it will trickle through traffic in 4th gear with no snatching and surging and, best of all, no stalling at junctions. Try these. In the meantime, I'll try to remember to send you the damper set-up procedure RB
  47. 1 point
    A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.
  48. 1 point
    Yes there is a small plastic 10mm nut to undo which is easy enough to get to, I found that sliding the power steering reservoir out of the way helped things. You got another VR now then Adam?
  49. 1 point
    Finally found some Thule Bars at a boot sale today for £1.50 so though I'd try out the kit I've been ammassing. Read a while ago that the 477 kit was unecessary which was annoying as the Thule website suggested it was essential. Anyway. Findings for anyone who cares is that no, you don't need the short roof kit, but without it the bars are quite close together at about 580mm between bar centres. Add the 477 Kit in and you can space the rear bar a bit further back making the whole thing a bit more stable (720mm between bars) especially with big things mounted on top. Seeing as 477 kits come up on eBay all the time (think mine was £10 +p&p) I'd say it was worth it. Pics for reference below.
  50. 1 point
    Remove the Chin Spoiler indicators fog lights and holders Temp sensor connector (front right of bumber if sat in C) Undo plastic wheel arch protectors where needed jack front of car up and get onto stands each side of the engine are 3 bolts, undo the outside two on each side DO NOT REMOVE THE MIDDLE ONE otherwise the engine WILL drop on you bumper slides forward
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