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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

New clutch master and slave fitted + a proper Hunter alignment over the last few days. The car is rejuvenated and useable again: tracks spot on and the clutch issues I had with juddering have gone away. The pedal was also not returning and sometimes the clutch was not fully disengaging. The place I took it to was local, recommneded by a local fellow Corrado owner, I'm really happy with the outcome, they are engineers rather than fitters. The workshop had a mix of old and new 911s, TVR, Fiat X1, Triumph or some sort, GTV6 80s Alfa, Citreon ZM and a Vauxhall Senator. The clutch master I supplied was a LHD version as RHD is obsolete, he made it all work and even refitted it after bleeding it up as the pedal sat too high and engineered a solution to make it sit at the right height. I'm sure many fitters would have just left the pedal and inch too high or worse still refused to work on the car. I asked them to give the car an inspection as I've done quite a bit of work with the axle and it got a clean bill of health. There was a note that the subframe has had a weld repair due to seized bolt in the past, which I knew about and have a replacement already refurbished to go on. It would have made sense to do this time around due to the alignment but I still need to purchase uprated ARBs and Vibra Technic engine mounts... a purchase that will have to happen after Christmas now.

quick update 9 out of 10 deposits received & loom maker is ordering the parts for all 10 hopefully, work commitments the only caveat, he is aiming to have them ready by end of Nov 🙂

Just to update on my banjo bolt situation.... After a short hospital stay I finally got a chance to look into getting the old girl sorted and to my surprise when I looked at the smaller of the two banjo bolts, the one I took off the car didnt have the small filter in it, so I presume at some point its been changed and not with an OEM bolt. Given the car ran fine, just going to run on that basis, so ordered a couple of HEL performance stainless steel ones and also ordered a couple of the large bolts from the LLL website, so thanks for those Matt it was very useful. No excuses for me now! Dougie

I generally like my cars oem or oem plus ,at least visually but one thing i had to improve on was the intercooler setup.The oe system is pretty poor and barely adequate for a standard engine . They mounted the small IC behind the ps bumper in front of the wheel arch and plumbed it up with a convoluted series of narrow bore piping so the chances of lowering the intake temperatures are pretty slim and the number of pipes and joints makes it difficult to have a non leaking setup. I wanted a front mount IC on the car but didn't want to go hacking and chopping bits out of the slam panel and move the battery away to the boot .Frontal space is minimal on these due to the odd position of the rad in relation the slam panel . I ended up steping back the rad off the crossmember on the DS to gain more clearance of an IC . I also got rid of the original rad fan as the motor on there are massive and replaced it with a Spal fan that fitted perfectly on the fan housing . After much trial and error, buying intercoolers the didn't fit properly etc ,mocking up ,making brackets /remaking brackets i ended up with this ! [url= With front slam panel fitted ,very happy with the way it turned out and i didn't have to fettle and of the slam panel with the grinder! (almost lol) i also installed a setrab remote oil cooler with AN fittings and hoses and got rid of the factory water cooled setup . These G60,s run very hot so this is a must have mod .

Well, a set of RS301’s became available so looks like the corrado won’t be standard for too long.

Some more restored parts

FYI, I used the Loctite rear view mirror bonder on my campervan and have had no issues. The key is to spend time prepping / degreasing the mount / screen, follow the instructions and wait as long as possible before installing the rear view mirror to the mount.

That looks fine. 👌 Does the job and is protected

From a set of Passat wiring drawings I used when fitting my Climatronic, the terminals associated with the 4 pin plug on the FCM are: T4/4 12V Feed from battery T4/3 Signal from F18 the radiator thermo switch T4/2 Fan speed 2 T4/1 Fan speed 3 The fuses are: S78 5A fuse for the coolant pump S108 20A fuse for fan stage 1 and a/c magnetic coupling (although to me it appears that stage 1 is fed directly from the thermo switch which may then suggest this fuse is stage 2….hypothesis only!). S107 50A fuse for fan stage 2 & 3 So if the 20A fuse keeps blowing, is there a chance you have a short to ground on the a/c magnetic coupling wiring from when you removed it? The magnetic clutch feed is on the 10 pin plug T10/10…or it is on mine which replicates the Passat at least. Or is the short on one of the fan stages, 1 or 2 dependent upon which stage fuse S108 feeds.

Update, as I would have had to remove my "NOS", from about 2006 VDO Pump I mentioned I installed 18+ months ago to replace the fuel hoses (which I did change at the time , but stupid me, used the wrong hose, needs to be Submersible type, which I have now got Cohline 2190), it was just as well I did. The couple of small cracks noticed before install had spread like cancer, and given time probably the whole top cap would have broken apart, only the swirlpot top, where the return nozzle is affected, all the rest is fine, so its probably a different crappy plastic. See attached pictures, to me this evidence that the VOO NOS items, are probably not worth the risk, as even if the cracks are not there to start with, they could start sometime later. The Pump itself is ok, I have taken the unit apart completely to clean the filters, I obviously need to remove the old fuel (car has not been driven in 10+ years, has been started many times, but always on a low tank, and the fuel is now pretty horrible.! I may buy the JP Pump, and see if i can swap my VDO Pump into the JP casing, I would then have a spare pump.

I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....

Looks Sherry to me too. I think the front of both sills could do with a in person look at as well

Well we can happily help you as we are all poking our noses around. What boxes does it need to tick?

No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!

I made mine “quick release” so much easier to check the fluids

It’s great to see that they chose the best colour 😎 I’m bias !

Oooo nice pic. We love freshly painted items more than xmas 😂

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

Luis, I owned the car before C488ADO purchased it from me, it was an auto at the time but as far as Im aware never had porsche seats, It had grey recaros when I had it and i owned it for several years and used to show it on the cars stands at the VW shows im trying to remember when i sold it I definately owned it in 2008 as I have a photo of it at the house that I lived in then, I left there in 2010 and dont think I owned the car at that point, it was a very reluctant sale, a change of job meant I needed something newer and more reliable as I was going to see clients I searched for a long time before buying the car as she had to be a 95my blackberry vr6 the photo I have was taken 8th november 2008 showing the car 😉 also have a photo of her on the club stand at the tatton park show 4th jan 2009

The fan controller controls 3 speeds. 1 & 2 from the rad switch and 3rd speed from the black sender in the thermostat housing. The fan control unit sends power to one of the three cables from the signal it gets. That’s why you can join the three wires together near the fan plug without getting current bleed going somewhere else that connects to the new fans. I use the two signals from the rad switch and the black switch unplugged so I can’t go over temp and bring that signal in. It would have easier and less complicated to just use the rad switch for just the first two signals direct from the fan switch like the Phenix fan set up. mine don’t change speed. the slim fan come on a 95 Celsius and both come on at 105 Celsius. that shroud seem basic for the money and the fans aren’t the best either. My bent plate cost £40 I think and I cut it out with a jigsaw. Look on the Spal fan website to determine fans and flow rates. it’s the fans, relays and wiring where the money is.

I have my Red 92 G60 Mk2 tornado 16v - my first resto - has sat for 2 years now and in need of a refresh Mk2 Pearl Grey 16v - currently rebuilding the engine (trying) and is currently a bare shell with bits of welding to be carried out Blue Corrado VR6 - which you put me onto - future project And my family think i am NUTS when it comes to these cars

Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425

The part number suffix (letter) can change to indicate a later version or substitution. Hella are a good brand - chances are the VW one is made by them or by Bosch, so I wouldn't worry about quality. The relay can go bad over time - a good way to test this is to jumper the connection the relay makes with a short length of wire - this should run your pump directly. It's a fairly common relay and should be easy to source.

Diagrams from the Bentley Manual for the 2.0 16v (9A) electrical circuit for the ECU, I have already listed most of them in a previous post, but thought these wiring diagrams may help also. Green dots show ECU pins. Si Some info here regarding the Lambda sensor on the 9A

Good to see Dox 👍

Indeed. That's what sets this community apart from most others, you don't get looked down on for not having a near mint example. It's about appreciation of model and the pleasure of the drive. Enthusiasm for working on it really does help too! (Though it can wear thin sometimes!) Lol

Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂

Been tinting rear lights

I had a chuftie today to cheer me up after an awful day. My wife damaged the wheel (and possibly suspension) of the Golf in the snow today. I don't want anyone to drive it until it's been fixed and checked for further damage. So I collected my daughter from the school coach stop this afternoon in the Corrado. While I'm parked waiting a young guy, young 20's, returns to his own car. Before he got in he came over and knowcked on the window, asked how old it was, said he loved it and that Corrad's were one of his favourite cars. I was surprised he knew what it was and it's certainly older than him. So overall a crap day but a nice chuftie in the snow.

Awesome. Payment and PM sent!

Show us the VR! Don't get me wrong, MK1's are very charismatic, but Corrados are just a drivers car, so much better! And cooler!

Hi all, Firstly - thanks for the donations - they do all help! I've always prided myself on keeping this forum clean - so I do try to keep the adverts and begging down to a minimum so you can all enjoy the site rather than get bombarded with pleas... But - to be fair - the link is at the bottom of every page - it's also in my and a couple of the Mods' signatures - so does get about the forum a bit! I think it's in the welcome PM too.... But, clearly not enough if you managed to miss it! Thanks again, though!

Gold!!!

The colour looks sensational, nice and original. Welcome along

I would start with the fuel . Change the filter and make sure you have no problems there . Leave it running or drive locally . Take a tool kit with you . When it cuts out , remove the fuel lines to check fuel is present . Be careful ,if there is fuel it will be under pressure , so protect your eyes . If all is ok , you may need to check the spray pattern in the injectors . This is obviously a bit more complicated . Next . Everything electrical from the ECU , down the the fueling and ignition system needs to be checked . I would unplug one at a time , spray them with electrical contact cleaner and plug back in , checking for corrosion and any faulty wires . I would also have a look at your ignition switch , alarm / immobiliser . Also when it cuts out , remove a lead and connect a spark plug and lay it on the block , you will then see if you have a spark on cut out . All you need for a car to run is a spark and fuel . So if both are present, it may point to a faulty immobiliser . All the best , hope this helps . Rob

Go for them Mike, I'm in two minds weather to mod or not.

Boxed unused set of BBS RS301's Not rare corrado part but rare all the same.

Dave vw still got roll bar vw bones no late head lights corradorestorer pmd vr pete ill get pic tommorw

Spoke to someone called Moses. Friendly chap and managed to sort me out a much better price than any one else so thanks guys. Saved over £130.

I believe you can use something along the lines of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-805-Volkswagen-Speaker-Adaptor-Lead-Cable-Stereo-CD-/150566801843?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 You may find this item much cheaper somewhere else thought.

Ok buddy, no problem. Let me know which light and I'll knock a bit off the total price for buying more than one item. I'll let you know a sensible postage price also. Hi Gaz, Can you let me know what the bolt looks like and I'll have a dig around for them. Noted also about the clocks, I'll let you know if Ste doesn't have them. Always willing to do deals on multiple purchases guys or make offers if the price set is wrong.

I replaced mine today and it was very simple indeed. The only tool you need is a screwdriver and that's simply to prise off a couple of clips on each strut. There is no screwing involved and no spannering needed. I took some pictures as I did it so hopefully it will explain the process in an easy to understand way. The pictures are of the right hand side of the hatch. 1) Support the hatch - Open the hatch and support it in some way or get someone to hold it for you. Mine stayed open even on one strut but there's no guarantee yours will. I secured mine by tying a rope around it and supporting it from the garage rafters. 2) Remove the circlip - With the hatch open take a look at the strut where it meets the hatch by the window. It is held in place by a pin. The pin is prevented from coming out by a circlip on the outer edge. Prise the circlip off using a flat headed screwdriver. I'm afraid I don't know if they are special clips or whether you could use anything the same size. I'd guess you could use anything of a similar size but mine didn't break so I reused them. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51366[/ATTACH] 3) Remove the pin - Now the circlip has been removed you should be able to push the pin out. To remove it simply push it towards the middle of the car. I found mine came out easier by pushing the hatch upwards a little so that the weight was taken off the pin. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51367[/ATTACH] 4) Catch the falling strut - Once the pin is removed then get ready to catch the strut as it will swing downwards quite fast. 5) The other end is held in place by another clip- Now take a look at where the bottom end of the strut is held in place at the body end. It is connected to a ball joint. You need to pull it off the joint but it is held in place by a clip on the actual strut itself. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51368[/ATTACH] 6) Remove the ball joint clip - The strut won't come off until you release the clip on the back of the strut. I did this by sliding in a flat headed screwdriver and loosening it. The clip didn't come off completely but did loosen enough to allow me to wiggle the strut around until it came off. I had to keep the screwdriver pressed into the clip while wiggling it at the same time. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51369[/ATTACH] And it was as simple as that. Installing the new struts is obviously the reverse of that process. I used struts from Veedubmachine. They seem ok and much cheaper than the VW equivalents. I've not compared them to new VW struts but they seem fine to me.

Hi which part is it rod

i will have to have a look i think its just a bare hub