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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/05/2011 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.
  2. 2 points
    Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.
  3. 2 points
    No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris
  4. 2 points
    Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.
  7. 1 point
    I’ve no experience of this, I read the above as.... boxster “S” Rear will fit over 25mm disks rears need not to be reversed - Rear right fits front right - the nipple will remain at the top to expel air in the system when you bleed them (using front callipers you’d need to swap left to right to have the nipple at the top? Ie reversed). thats my take on what’s written in your quote, don’t shoot me if I’m wrong....
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    I’m sure Chris will reveal his method, but when I did this on my car, I used a wallpaper steamer with a nozzle attachment to soften the wax, and then wiped off with a cloth. I then used a degreaser and a cloth to remove the remainder. You can keep going with panel wipe if necessary, but I was happy to just reapply some fresh clear wax.
  10. 1 point
    What I normally do is cut off the original metal crimp and remove old rubber hose, then slip a brass fuel ferrule inside the rigid nylon hose which will prevent it crushing when you place your new rubber hose over the rigid hose then crimped with a stainless crimp or similar, this way ensures maximum fuel flow through the joint.
  11. 1 point
    Hi , My mate has a well sorted Alpine White VR in Leicester for sale- has a very nice black leather interior to - stealth looked after the car for him and has many new parts. Send me a pm and I can pass on you his details if your interested .
  12. 1 point
    Done now - deleted attachments. For the record, the VR only has the one in tank fuel pump - the 16v and G60 had an in tank lift pump and the main pump mounted underneath the body where the fuel filter is. The ECU relay is #109 and the fuel pump relay #167/67 - look at the side, they will have a diagram showing the wire and terminal connections and how the relay is switched.
  13. 1 point
    This is a late genuine fan switch from a good seller - check your pin lay out is that same as in a triangle as early has a horizontal 3 pin lay out. On diagram there is no sealing washer. https://www.deutsche-parts.co.uk/1h0959481b-switch-new-genuine-part.html
  14. 1 point
    Few updates Bought a facia for the centre gauges to make it look better, its 3d printed Glued the LCD mount to the back Filling the face to make it smoother Click on picture below to se the video Video Sprayed the bonnet, needs some flatting now Then fitted this centre visor and today, the screen got fitted Still waiting for the DVLA to update my V5, only been 9 weeks so far, when I called they said it may take another 3 weeks which is a shame as I wanted to take it to VW Whitenoise 😞
  15. 1 point
    i've recently joined fb - but only for a few groups, one being the Corrado group there. A lot of US sellers and takes a while to sift through things
  16. 1 point
    Thank you. I will be putting her on Pistonheads and a few other places but thought I'd give you guys here first opportunity. I know a fellow forum member would really look after her 😉
  17. 1 point
    Says sold- but if you want similar I have a set for sale; with or without hump in rear depending on whether your car is vr or 16v
  18. 1 point
    Thank you, means a lot! Here's the link of the VWMS coil pack where I got my source to do it. It was pretty easy to do mate: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/bosch-motorsport-coilpack-swap-with-stock-management.7584841/
  19. 1 point
    A few more pictures of the interior current condition....
  20. 1 point
    Luis, I owned the car before C488ADO purchased it from me, it was an auto at the time but as far as Im aware never had porsche seats, It had grey recaros when I had it and i owned it for several years and used to show it on the cars stands at the VW shows im trying to remember when i sold it I definately owned it in 2008 as I have a photo of it at the house that I lived in then, I left there in 2010 and dont think I owned the car at that point, it was a very reluctant sale, a change of job meant I needed something newer and more reliable as I was going to see clients I searched for a long time before buying the car as she had to be a 95my blackberry vr6 the photo I have was taken 8th november 2008 showing the car 😉 also have a photo of her on the club stand at the tatton park show 4th jan 2009
  21. 1 point
    Finally fitted a stainless washer to the ARB drop link. Hopefully if it ever fails it can not spin round and rip my CV boot, again. I love preventative maintenance .Top tip Just need to do the other side sometime
  22. 1 point
    Not the best quality but hopefully you can see how they clip on.
  23. 1 point
    This is not based on experience with VR6s. Mine comes from living with generations of Saab engines. If you havent - drastically - increased the rev limit to - say 8000 rpm, or added a supercharger or turbo to boost beyond 1.6 BAR, as long as your rebuild - if you've done one - finely balanced the moving mass of crank, rods and pistons, the basic pulley should be fine. Was there a reason for not refitting the original pully back into place? Did it get destroyed because the nut wouldn't budge? There seem to be a few second hand pulleys on the market - here's one.Corrado 2.9 VR6 Genuine VW Crankshaft Pulley | eBay I cannot see the of a lightened pulley to a road engine. Mk3s seem to have a lighter pulley. Perhaps one of the R32 chappies could chime in here- it seems to me that the R32 pulley fits straight on - looking at the parts spec on paper. Second hand it seems to cost around £60, or £350 ish new.
  24. 1 point
    It's a tick box in your notification settings.
  25. 1 point
    I deleted an obvious spam attempt this morning. Watch out because the spammers will try to brute a moderator account to approve the post if they can - I had three attempts and lock outs over night. Maybe a good time to change your moderator passwords and make sure they are of a decent strength and complexity.
  26. 1 point
    If you get the code it can be checked here. http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx I'm pretty sure it'll be the YU clear. It's rare and I've only seen them a couple of times, but there was a 'mushroom beige' I think was only available for early cars. It's a bit darker and a kind of mix between grey & beige.
  27. 1 point
    I looked on the website and for you and could not see one in Spain. Maybe call them and ask for help. https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Looks like the seller of the car has carried out some great renovation work to the car- pretty sure I can see a new rad in there. Looks like the paint if fresh to - I would say they have spent a lot of money on this car at least 7k plus/
  30. 1 point
    Yay - we are up and running. I took the time to tidy up all the wires, ensured splices were covered and then I used that fabric type tape to wrap the wires up tidy. I have 3 issues to resolve... 1. I had a casulty in the fuel line going from accumulator to filter (the smaller lengthed one - believe to be PN 535 201 218 A - the black plastic shrink to fit pipe split. I have used some similar ish clear pipe my father in law has for his tractors to get it running but it seems to leak. Does anyone know of any options to buy replacements? Heritage do this but I'd rather not spend 85 quid on pipes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Line-Kit-K-Jetronic-Fuel-Filter-to-Accumulator-Stainless-Steel/392370035642?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D33aba946907c435a8867d21042a272a7%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D372721072798%26itm%3D392370035642%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 2. TI am really struggling remounting the underbody pump unit to the car. I've bent the metal clips that locate around the rubbers to a 90 degree angle thinking I'd bend them back into place once pump assembly is mounted but struggling to get the clips bent over the thread and bolt on top. Is there a better way!? 3. And lastly my fuel and coolant gauge doesn't work. I dont know if they ever worked or if it's something I disconnected when sorting wires out. I did see the fuel gauge reading more than full whilst messing about getting the pumps to work. Does anyone know which colour wires relate in the fuse box area, if any at all? The rest of the dash and electrics (spoiler, lights etc) are working well. Here's a couple of vids of the car. Headphones work best!
  31. 1 point
    Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂
  32. 1 point
    New purchase for the corrado, love these exhausts
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    H369RHL has been sorn since Oct 2006. the last V5 was issued in Feb 2012, so there's some hope
  35. 1 point
    Give them a call on 01273 444000 Think they're open tomorrow? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  36. 1 point
    No problem! Thanks for the advice, I wasn't planning on running spacers, but I will do now. Hoping to only have run 10mm but also that's a bit optimistic! :)
  37. 1 point
    Congratulations on the prize. It is a great show, have attended the last couple of years but couldn't make today. Shame as the weather was great..
  38. 1 point
    The car looked absloutley stunning all weekend. Well deserved, unfortunatley I never got the chance to speak to you
  39. 1 point
    After what feels like forever, I have some progress (touch wood!)... The newly rebuilt charger from Only Charged Dubs arrived yesterday so it was all hands to the pump to get it fitted before the weekend. Got the old one removed (again) and then fitted the new one, fitted the new oil feed and return pipes and carried out an engine flush and oil change with the correct grade of oil 10w40 Semi Synthetic. Primed the new charger as per the instructions, and then let the car idle and got the engine up to temperature to check for leaks etc. After a few adjustments, it was started again and after a few minutes I slowly increased the revs from idle upto 1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2000rpm and then 2200rpm when I heard what can only be described as a scary noise! Almost like a buzzing from the charger area. Checked the oil feed pipe, yep plenty of oil in there. By this time, it was getting late and I'd had enough for one evening, so I packed everything away and thought I'd tackle it again in the morning with after some sleep... Saturday morning and I started the car up and again let it idle up to temperature, another quick check in the daytime for leaks was also done. Increased the revs as I had done the previous day and the noise returned. I phoned OCD and spoke to Matt who said that you can sometimes get noises from the chargers after a rebuild, and to take the car for a drive and see how I got on, which I did. At first the noise remained, and I was ready to admit defeat when after a longer drive at a constant RPM, the noise got quieter! I carried on driving, and the more I was driving the better the noise got! Now I'm not sure if this is normal, or anyone has come across this before (would be good to hear if anyone has), but long story short I have covered 80 miles today with varying loads whilst keeping the RPM under 3000RPM as per the instructions for running in, and the noise has gone completely and I'm just left with the hollow G60 noise (hard to describe) that from what I can work out, is normal. So fingers crossed all is good now, and I can start to enjoy Corrado ownership again! I'm guessing that the oil just needed to get to all the right places within the charger and driving it more obviously got the lubrication to where it needed to go, and perhaps it was a slightly dry seal thats now been lubricated? Who know's I'm not that clued up on G-Laders but as long as that noise stays away and the boost stays within the engine then I'm happy!
  40. 1 point
    The colour looks sensational, nice and original. Welcome along
  41. 1 point
    I think it's also worth adding that engine work aside, cosmetically this car is superb. The paint is in brilliant condition the whole way round. To build a Corrado to this condition would cost you far more, so should be a no brainer for anyone consider going for a VR6 Turbo. I've said it several times already, but its a real shame you're moving on Dave.
  42. 1 point
    Hi Have a look at my thread for the conversion - Hope it helps http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82498
  43. 1 point
    Dave vw still got roll bar vw bones no late head lights corradorestorer pmd vr pete ill get pic tommorw
  44. 1 point
    thats pants, great you got it back possibly soon.
  45. 1 point
    Sorry to hear that mate, hopefully there is no lasting damage. Best of luck getting it sorted. I hope next time the scummers nick a lesser car and bin it into a huge tree very hard!!
  46. 1 point
    Got my pair today, very nice model and panels seem metal not plastic, one for the desk the other to keep for spares!
  47. 1 point
    As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine. Have a look and tell me what you think!
  48. 1 point
    Already well on the case with the fuel filler modification, think I mentioned it in the first post when I outlined the plans. The 1Z doesn't have an in-tank fuel pump at all, the engine driven injector pump acts as the lift pump on its own but I'm going to retain the 8V in-tank pump anyway. I've devised a modification to the fuel lines to allow any excess fuel to return to the tank before it reaches the injector pump (basically a stepped 'H' fitting in the feed and return lines). I'll describe it better once I've built it :) Supercharged - I'd be really interested in seeing some pictures of your TDi if at all possible? Cheers Tom
  49. 1 point
    Thanks for stepping up! I think it's just a case of everyone getting used to the new format- the forum was similar with past face lifts. Takes a few weeks for posting to get back to what it was before the change. Gonzo, any progress?
  50. 1 point
    bought myself some new coilpacks from tps, not cheap but better than being off the road again. Ill fit all new ones to the car and keep one use one as a spare and sell the others on. Struggled to get a heated seat loom so Ive got the parts to make one up instead.
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